Okay, I am a disaster when it comes to computer stuff
But I will try and add them !
Thanks again !!!
Windscreen removal
- Thread starter Barry.b
- Start date
But I will try and add them !
Thanks again !!!
No worries. I go through and add photos from time to time so they'll end up there.Okay, I am a disaster when it comes to computer stuff
But I will try and add them !
Thanks again !!!
Okay , so I have started separating the donor roof’s sunroof support frame today, and so far all is going well .
I might get the donor frame sandblasted and painted before I weld it into my car.
I think I’d sleep better knowing it was good under the skin. Anyway I still have a bit to do but I am definitely off to a good start .
I had to get a bit inventive to get the skin to separate from the frame ... I drilled out the spot welds and then I modified a trampoline spring puller assembly tool by sharpening it into a point so that I could use it as a miniature pry bar .
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Oh my... I can expect such or worse as well.
I'm wondering how precise the sunroof frame needs to be adjusted to make the roof mechanism to work properly and the roof flap to be in line with the roof surfce.
Shouldn't it be somehow measured or even special reference frame built before cutting the frame from the roof?
I'm wondering how precise the sunroof frame needs to be adjusted to make the roof mechanism to work properly and the roof flap to be in line with the roof surfce.
Shouldn't it be somehow measured or even special reference frame built before cutting the frame from the roof?
day66
Well-Known Member
I’m following this with interest as my CSI has a sunroof and a few roof bubbles - at some point - when I’m feeling brave - I’ll need to strip the paint and drop the headlining to see what is hiding underneath ....
If there are allready bubbles, you can watch out for another roof skin for the repair.
Normally from a non sunroof donor car, since sunroofcars without a rusted through roofskin is more than rare and hard to find.
Prepping such a roofskin without the opening is a bit of a challenge, but doable.
I did that for another e9 project and there the preowner even had cut out the sunroof frame and made 3 pieces out of it to just throw it to the trashbin.
That was a tricky to get that back into 1 piece back again and then to the right position in the car.
But the position is not that critical, cause the sunroof has some certain space for adjustment. It should be roughly in the right place though.
Normally from a non sunroof donor car, since sunroofcars without a rusted through roofskin is more than rare and hard to find.
Prepping such a roofskin without the opening is a bit of a challenge, but doable.
I did that for another e9 project and there the preowner even had cut out the sunroof frame and made 3 pieces out of it to just throw it to the trashbin.
That was a tricky to get that back into 1 piece back again and then to the right position in the car.
But the position is not that critical, cause the sunroof has some certain space for adjustment. It should be roughly in the right place though.
Is the shape of the roof so hard to be reproduced? Is the rust only where the frame is below?
It looks the bubbles are each time in the same place (after the sunroof flap)
I know welding a patch onto a roof (with of w/o) the opening is kinda challenge but doable.
The problem is the cost of donor roof (excluding even how rare it is to be found) is and order of magnitude more expensive than the repair and creation of the curvatures on the english wheel plus tens of hours spent on welding point by point to minimize bending due to metal shrinking.
The donor roof needs to be cut and prepare anyhow and there is a risk buying it it was already repaired in the past, so the question above is really viable, once the roof worth reuse becomes a mission impossible task and can be a value of quarter of the complete body of E9.
It looks the bubbles are each time in the same place (after the sunroof flap)
I know welding a patch onto a roof (with of w/o) the opening is kinda challenge but doable.
The problem is the cost of donor roof (excluding even how rare it is to be found) is and order of magnitude more expensive than the repair and creation of the curvatures on the english wheel plus tens of hours spent on welding point by point to minimize bending due to metal shrinking.
The donor roof needs to be cut and prepare anyhow and there is a risk buying it it was already repaired in the past, so the question above is really viable, once the roof worth reuse becomes a mission impossible task and can be a value of quarter of the complete body of E9.
Hi Krzysztof
Yes I will have to be careful welding the sunroof frame back in to ensure it lines up with the sunroof opening and the curvature of the roof skin.
The brackets for the sunroof support frame have brackets that sit on top of a twin bracket which is attached to the car , so I believe you can bend / adjust them firstly to get the correct etc fit ,and then they get welded to each other .
I did go on today and separated the donor roof skin it has so many spot welds
Any then I after wire brushing the surface rust with my grinder , painted on rust converter , it goes on light blue and then chemically neutralises the rust and turns black.
So that’s enough for today.
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day66
Well-Known Member
I think I’ll have to repair what I have, though until I investigate properly I won’t know just how bad mine is. I’m tempted to see if I can separate the frame from the roof and remove from the inside, sandblast it, repair as necessary and then look at the roof skin - at least with the frame out I can get to both sides of the roof skin and it gives me the best chance of success with any welding and straightening
Hi there
Just do know that it took me hours to separate the sunroof frame from the roof.
And it is not easy ..., I.e. be careful that you don’t wreck your car !!!!
And if you do decide to try it , what I had to do was drill out the spot welds in the red areas first whilst using a miniature pry bar to get the skin to separate.
The spot welds in the red areas seem to be twinned ie . 2 together with about 4mm between them and then a space of about 50 mm to the next set of 2 and so on all along the red areas.
Then the green area is crimped flat and has no welds but there is some body adhesive that will have to be overcome later.
Then the blue area will have to be cut and bent down about 20mm to allow clearance for later.
Then cut out the interior light support plate , it has 8 mig weld tack welds. ( shown in the second photo)
Then cut the 4 orange areas ( be careful and keep in mind you will need to weld these back on eventually so don’t get too excited with the grinder )
Then the last cut will be the purple one in the 3rd photo below. It is the plate at the front of the sunroof frame which the rear view mirror is attached.
The body adhesive in the green area is now the only thing keeping the sunroof support frame in the car. To overcome it I had to carefully use a mallet and I also got a flat chisel in between the skin and the frame to try and release the adhesive. You will be trying to get the frame to go towards the back of the car so that the frame will “ let go “ at the green flat crimped area .
Obviously also the sunroof itself and the motor and tracks and cables need to be removed beforehand
The 4 drainage tubes need to also be removed beforehand.
Again all of the above is not easy ...
Good luck with it if you try !!!
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Hi,
Hard work! Well done.
Will you be removing all with the paper disc later on?
My experience with leaving the converter on is bad as the paint (primer etc) is not holding properly.
I was told some time ago it has to be removed till bare metal and converter is only left in the micro holes to stop potential rust from growing.
Most of the rust converters are based on ant acid, so it can explain why not to keep it (especially where the acid has noting to react with)
But there are also base on different chemistry as well.
Thanks yes I had a busy day
I find it quite good to leave there and I paint over it with a couple of coats of zinc primer. And then a top coat also.
But that is okay as it is a surface which will not be seen once the car if re assembled.
On the outside I would sand it flat like you said and leave only the minimum to prevent further rust from developing.
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day66
Well-Known Member
Barry, thanks for the additional hints. Once I make a start , I’ll let you know how I get on!
No worries !
Okay so I got my sunroof frame sand blasted today and she now has had a coat of rust converter on top just to help it stay clean in the future . I will give it a couple of coats of zinc primer too and maybe some smooth rite to keep the rust away.Thanks yes I had a busy day
I find it quite good to leave there and I paint over it with a couple of coats of zinc primer. And then a top coat also.
But that is okay as it is a surface which will not be seen once the car if re assembled.
On the outside I would sand it flat like you said and leave only the minimum to prevent further rust from developing.
I will be doing similar to the underneath of the roof skin and the roof support frame.
I bought a spot welder before Christmas and got her out yesterday to give it a try on some scrap and it worked well on that .
I am planning on spot welding the roof skin and I will also run a bead of adhesive in beyond the spot welds just to help with rigidity and also waterproofing of the joint.
In theory that’s the plan anyway
I will have to take my time though to make sure everything lines back up properly before doing any welding. !
