Rear chrome bumper underriders

teahead

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No rust but could use a rechrome

$200 plus ship from Seattle.

[email protected]
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Willem Tell

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Rob,
I notice your E9 signature photo does not show under riders... My car is also URless.
My bodywork has no holes. The bumper does, but not the rear panel.
Was this a standard configuration with under riders as an option?

Arrival Day (13).JPG
 

Willem Tell

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Thanks for the offer Rob.
Ulrich pointed out they were missing when I intro'd the car in New Members.
Not sure that I want to punch holes in that clean rear panel. I don't miss them to be honest.
I'll give it a think.
 

Stan

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I have been vacillating for 3 years since my car was stripped bare and repainted.
I like the clean look and almost sold them
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But in the interested of originality, I think I will put them back on
 

teahead

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I'm debating putting them on too. But I like symmetry. I.e. stuff on the rear matching stuff on the front.
 

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Philippe db

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Not sure that I want to punch holes in that clean rear panel. I don't miss them to be honest.
I'll give it a think.

Hi Willem,

These underriders were an integral par of our Coupe's design with only one exception the 2.5CS were they were deleted to save money.

So unless you don't care about authenticity you really should have them installed. Just my 2ct.
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Willem Tell

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There's a lot of serious E9 pedigree weighing here here, so I'll give this serious consideration!
Can someone advise me: The bumper carries the main structural load, so the hole through the rear panel would be for access for the mounting bolt for the underrider, correct?

Merry Christmas, and all the Best for the New Year to All!
 

Markos

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There's a lot of serious E9 pedigree weighing here here, so I'll give this serious consideration!
Can someone advise me: The bumper carries the main structural load, so the hole through the rear panel would be for access for the mounting bolt for the underrider, correct?

Merry Christmas, and all the Best for the New Year to All!

Correct! The lower hole is just to secure the under rider laterally. “Structural load” for the rear bumper is a misleading statement. The rear bumper provides no structural support for the vehicle, and for the most part provides zero protection for the vehicle short of a parallel parking graze. It is a beauty piece at best.
 

Willem Tell

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Correct! The lower hole is just to secure the under rider laterally. “Structural load” for the rear bumper is a misleading statement. The rear bumper provides no structural support for the vehicle, and for the most part provides zero protection for the vehicle short of a parallel parking graze. It is a beauty piece at best.

Got it. Yeah, as you say, this whole chassis "sways" in motion like a young Latin girl! ( I can say that because I was married to one many years ago... :rolleyes:)

Rob was kind enough to point me to a pair of newly-chromed URs on eBay. They are coming from Latvia, so within the EU, so I can have them shipped to a friend's PO Box in Germany just saved me many $$$! Thanks Rob!

Gotta love this E9 community! Like the FAQ community, the best souls on the planet!
 

Markos

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Got it. Yeah, as you say, this whole chassis "sways" in motion like a young Latin girl! ( I can say that because I was married to one many years ago... :rolleyes:)

Rob was kind enough to point me to a pair of newly-chromed URs on eBay. They are coming from Latvia, so within the EU, so I can have them shipped to a friend's PO Box in Germany just saved me many $$$! Thanks Rob!

Gotta love this E9 community! Like the FAQ community, the best souls on the planet!

I saw those. Fair price.
 

Willem Tell

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I was researching other threads, and saw Rob's rear valance. That size hole is something I can live with.
Is it necessary to dismount the bumper to attach the underrider? I cannot tell from the drawings. It looks like the underrider gets attached to the underside of the dismounted bumper, then the whole assembly gets mounted with the bumper mounted first, and then the valance bolt through to the underrider?

upload_2018-12-25_23-27-58.png
 

Markos

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Yeah you need to connect the under rider to the bumper then bolt the bumper to the rear. The rear bumper is easy to remove. Six bolts all accessible from the trunk.
 

HB Chris

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And be sure to thread the bolt through the body first, there isn’t much room between tire well, gas tank and body.
 

Willem Tell

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Thanks for the confirmation Markos. I guess I will assemble the parts and wait to tackle lubricating my trunk lock at the same time!;)

Looking at the other thread: https://www.e9coupe.com/forum/threads/e9-rear-bumper-over-rider.26269/

There is a distinct difference between the earlier assembly 51/7 and the newer assembly 51/9. (I can no longer access 51/9 on BMW OEM or W&N)
It looks like I just purchased the later assembly Item #5 on 51/9 on eBay,
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which means I need the NLA rubber block #7. Hmmm. I have 3CM closed-cell foam, but that's probably not stiff enough...

Good news is, even though W&N shows drawing 51/7, it looks like the bumper is actually the correct one for Item #5 on 51/9.
Question: Has anyone had experience ordering these assemblies?

HBChris
, I saw you subsequent comment (running dual threads) about making sure to fit the bolt through the valence before re-mounting the bumper. Thanks for that.

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HB Chris

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The big rubber block is only for US 1973 coupes with 2 1/2 mph interim bumpers. Earlier cars use #17, a small rubber strip. The chrome pieces should be the same, part numbers are the same whether for the chrome or the rubber bumper itself, weird that the pics make them look so different.
 

DWMBMW

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Hi Willem,

These underriders were an integral par of our Coupe's design with only one exception the 2.5CS were they were deleted to save money.

So unless you don't care about authenticity you really should have them installed. Just my 2ct.View attachment 57340

Although not authentic, I removed mine years ago because I think the rear end looks more nimble without it.

I also had a piece of original equipment that was removed for a cleaner look when I was very young.
 

Willem Tell

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The big rubber block is only for US 1973 coupes with 2 1/2 mph interim bumpers. Earlier cars use #17, a small rubber strip. The chrome pieces should be the same, part numbers are the same whether for the chrome or the rubber bumper itself, weird that the pics make them look so different.

Thanks Chris, Markos for the helpful input. A project to add to the list!

So far this week I knocked out:
installing the rubber gaskets that were missing under the doors,
installed a thrust washer kit in the handbrake,
added some handy-dandy push-on, push-off LED lights in the trunk,
added the firewall gasket...
minor stuff... I was hoping for lift time to install the Lokaris, but I may just bite the bullet and install them using just a couple of jack stands.
Still have motor, trans, and diff fluids to change...
It has turned pretty darned cold, so not much fun in the underground garage this week! :confused:
 
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