WTB Coolant hoses for CSi

Drew Gregg

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My Korman engine with 3 DCOE carbs has tabs for mounting a metal pipe # 8 from parts book section 11/37. I also need rubber hoses #3 and #9 The part #'s are: 11 53 1 256 494--pipe #8 11 53 1 256 500 - #9 11 53 1 256 499--#3 These are listed for the CSi What's there now are multiple hoses that were hidden under that big alum. air box that was removed during the restoration. Any other method of cleaning up the coolant hoses under 3 DCOE carbs will be appreciated.
 

sfdon

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Pelican parts has hose


Part #: 11-53-1-256-500-BOE
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rsporsche

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My Korman engine with 3 DCOE carbs has tabs for mounting a metal pipe # 8 from parts book section 11/37. I also need rubber hoses #3 and #9 The part #'s are: 11 53 1 256 494--pipe #8 11 53 1 256 500 - #9 11 53 1 256 499--#3 These are listed for the CSi What's there now are multiple hoses that were hidden under that big alum. air box that was removed during the restoration. Any other method of cleaning up the coolant hoses under 3 DCOE carbs will be appreciated.
i bought these hoses from Getbmwparts.com ... it took them a while to get the csi return hose as it had to come from germany as csi parts are not stocked here
 

m5bb

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I made my own out of copper plumbing pipe and media blasted then painted with high heat black paint.
Not exactly the same an Mario's because my car has Webbers.
 

Drew Gregg

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I made my own out of copper plumbing pipe and media blasted then painted with high heat black paint.
Not exactly the same an Mario's because my car has Webbers.
Gary--I saw your engine on FB and those long Weber trumpets would never clear my brake booster with the horizontal Korman intake manifold. The shop guys thought the E24 return pipe would have the same clearance problem with the starter. Now they told me I have to find the 90 degree bend rubber hoses that attach to the heater box and come out of the firewall. Any thoughts on what I need to buy for those 2 hoses? The previous owner just bent hoses to fit and they are almost kinked. He never used the heater in Hawaii and only hooked them up to sell the car.
 

Drew Gregg

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i have given some thought, even though i have the aforementioned hoses, to go back to the metal pipe. Mario (VSR) has recreated a stainless steel water pipe $250
http://www.vsr1.com/e9-cs-coupe-products/#
Scott--I saw the VSR pipe and it looks like the E24 pipe. The shop guys think the right side 90 degree bend pipes will hit the starter. Without actually having the pipe,is it safe to say the pipes do clear the starter? thanks, Drew
 

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You won't need the heater in FLL. I have mine bypassed to keep the cabin cooler, have maybe needed heat 3 days out of the year, 3 days that you won't likely get down there. There are threads on the bypass switch mod if you want options there.
 

rsporsche

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Scott--I saw the VSR pipe and it looks like the E24 pipe. The shop guys think the right side 90 degree bend pipes will hit the starter. Without actually having the pipe,is it safe to say the pipes do clear the starter? thanks, Drew
yep, i have a euro b34 engine going in which that would fit. i am also using the smaller v12 starter. if Mario says its for an e9 ... it will fit an e9
 

Drew Gregg

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m5bb

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Gary--I saw your engine on FB and those long Weber trumpets would never clear my brake booster with the horizontal Korman intake manifold. The shop guys thought the E24 return pipe would have the same clearance problem with the starter. Now they told me I have to find the 90 degree bend rubber hoses that attach to the heater box and come out of the firewall. Any thoughts on what I need to buy for those 2 hoses? The previous owner just bent hoses to fit and they are almost kinked. He never used the heater in Hawaii and only hooked them up to sell the car.
Yes, Drew had to deal with all those problems.
I got a 2002 TII booster which is smaller in diameter to run with my Webers but still had to get shorty stacks because they would hit the booster. Also presents a tuning issue although I'm not real sure how big a deal that is. Pierce Manifolds in CA is the best supplier for all things Weber and great people if you need help. They also have a couple CD's on tuning. Best I've ever found.
https://www.piercemanifolds.com/
I have since changed to a Hydraboost system by GM. Not the BMW version. I was in fact getting the hoses made today to make that work. This was supposed to solve my interference problem with the Webers but the reservoir on the master was still too tall to clear the Weber air horn. So now I had to get a different master that has a remote reservoir that I can mount on the fender or firewall. Geez, it's only money......

Just got the hoses today in fact to do a little better job of hooking up the heater. Like Steve says many do not and just by-pass it. If you don't you will always get a small amount of heat on you feet. With that said you can do a heater control valve in many variations. I have a manual one in Atlanta. There is a write up on this forum by Rob Seigel on installing and electric solenoid valve. He lives in MA. MAybe thats why he wanted an electric one. To cold to open the hood to move the lever on the manual one. It gets cold here but more importantly I DRIVE my car. Went to Colorado in 2014.
What you have to do is find hoses that have the right inside diameter and then find hoses with 90 degree bends. You will then have to cut and fit to make them go where you want.
I use the long hose from the 6 series cars and then made an adapter out of copper plumbing pipe to make the bend to the hose for the back of the cylinder head. See photos. Part numbers and show you what they look like. Notice the 90 bends. Use those to go down from heater core connections.
HTH,
Gary
 

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rsporsche

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The E24 parts at Realoem look like the way to go. What connects to the end of the "Tee" to the right of the drawing? I'm at a loss since the car is in the shop and I can't see the engine.
Note that hanger part #5 is now in my car holding the hoses that are going under the carbs.
as i remember, one hose goes to the coolant reservoir and the other goes to the heater inlet / outlet (not sure which off the top of my head)
 

Drew Gregg

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Yes, Drew had to deal with all those problems.
I got a 2002 TII booster which is smaller in diameter to run with my Webers but still had to get shorty stacks because they would hit the booster. Also presents a tuning issue although I'm not real sure how big a deal that is. Pierce Manifolds in CA is the best supplier for all things Weber and great people if you need help. They also have a couple CD's on tuning. Best I've ever found.
https://www.piercemanifolds.com/
I have since changed to a Hydraboost system by GM. Not the BMW version. I was in fact getting the hoses made today to make that work. This was supposed to solve my interference problem with the Webers but the reservoir on the master was still too tall to clear the Weber air horn. So now I had to get a different master that has a remote reservoir that I can mount on the fender or firewall. Geez, it's only money......

Just got the hoses today in fact to do a little better job of hooking up the heater. Like Steve says many do not and just by-pass it. If you don't you will always get a small amount of heat on you feet. With that said you can do a heater control valve in many variations. I have a manual one in Atlanta. There is a write up on this forum by Rob Seigel on installing and electric solenoid valve. He lives in MA. MAybe thats why he wanted an electric one. To cold to open the hood to move the lever on the manual one. It gets cold here but more importantly I DRIVE my car. Went to Colorado in 2014.
What you have to do is find hoses that have the right inside diameter and then find hoses with 90 degree bends. You will then have to cut and fit to make them go where you want.
I use the long hose from the 6 series cars and then made an adapter out of copper plumbing pipe to make the bend to the hose for the back of the cylinder head. See photos. Part numbers and show you what they look like. Notice the 90 bends. Use those to go down from heater core connections.
HTH,
Gary
Gary--We bought the weber parts and correct fuel pump from Pierce. The 1" horn and the IDF filter screens should just clear the big brake booster. The PO in Hawaii never had the heater connected until he put the car on BAT. He told me it was tight between the block and the firewall. I think Steve has the right idea to bypass the heater for driving here in Fla. If you know where the bypass thread is, please let me know. Thanks for the info, Drew
 

Drew Gregg

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You won't need the heater in FLL. I have mine bypassed to keep the cabin cooler, have maybe needed heat 3 days out of the year, 3 days that you won't likely get down there. There are threads on the bypass switch mod if you want options there.
Steve--Bypass is a good idea. I'll look for the threads unless you can direct them to me. Thanks!, Drew
 

Stevehose

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Yes the end of the Tee goes to the outlet of the heater core (or bypass), #4 goes to the overflow tank.

as i remember, one hose goes to the coolant reservoir and the other goes to the heater inlet / outlet (not sure which off the top of my head)
 
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