Help with headlight/driving light rewire project

fever

....Ev'rybody's got the fever
that is something you all know
Fever isn't such a new thing
Fever started long ago...

steve...You give me fever ...

:-? :shock: :mad: :-o :-P

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thanks steve...
 
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Stevehose said:
I have a 72 diagram and it is exactly as you describe now that I can decipher it and understand it is fed from the unprotected side of the fuse box. With that in mind, shouldn't I then fuse the red wire between fuse box #4 and the light switch in order to protect both the light and dip switches if one of them shorts? The load of the headlights will have been relocated to the new relay by the battery so the only load is from the relays or am i still missing something here. Why they didn't protect the low beam circuit is beyond me. Thanks.
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@Stevehose -- I know this is an old thread - I have now targeted my hedlight re-wiring and fusing project as part of my winter backlog:
Looking now at the question of an upstream fuse for the wire going into the headlight switch, I was wondering --

would it not be easier to just change the red wire that sits in the fuse 4 entry port and goes to pin 30 on the switch - and plug it from the entry to the exit of fuse #4, so that it is now a fused connection, but uses the original fuse box (instead of introducing an additional fuse outside the box).

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as i have just done this, i used a 10 ga red wire from the battery to a new relay (next to the battery) with an inline waterproof fuse (to pin 30 of the relay). the existing yellow wire was cut and fed into the relay (pin 86) ... pin 85 is a ground wire that runs down the harness to the light ground. then i ran 2 - 14 gauge yellow wires to the 2 low beam headlights (tied to pin 87 of the relay). its really pretty simple -
 
Dlc said:
would it not be easier to just change the red wire that sits in the fuse 4 entry port and goes to pin 30 on the switch - and plug it from the entry to the exit of fuse #4, so that it is now a fused connection, but uses the original fuse box (instead of introducing an additional fuse outside the box).
Click to expand...
Probably, I was likely avoiding having to deal with working up under the dash at the fuse box and leaving that as is.
 
i like the idea of undoing as little of the harness as necessary ... and not running more wires separately on top of the harness. nobody will ever see my fuse as it will be below the battery (or next to the relays), but i want it to be accessible ... just not that visible. basically you can leave the harness as it is all the way up to the split that goes to the relays. the existing yellow wire is a yellow (1.5 m2) wire - approx 16 gauge. i put 14 guage wires in, as i will probably run higher than 55 watt h1 bulbs in the lows and highs. i also moved the white / violet wire from the h4 plug directly to the high beams (like the euro cars) - i just don't have the 'city' lights in the low beams
 
rsporsche said:
i like the idea of undoing as little of the harness as necessary ... and not running more wires separately on top of the harness. nobody will ever see my fuse as it will be below the battery (or next to the relays), but i want it to be accessible ... just not that visible. basically you can leave the harness as it is all the way up to the split that goes to the relays. the existing yellow wire is a yellow (1.5 m2) wire - approx 16 gauge. i put 14 guage wires in, as i will probably run higher than 55 watt h1 bulbs in the lows and highs. i also moved the white / violet wire from the h4 plug directly to the high beams (like the euro cars) - i just don't have the 'city' lights in the low beams
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I’ll call you in 5 minutes?
 
I did what @rsporsche did just this past week. I added relays for the front lights in the engine bay and then ran wiring for stereo and rear window motors via a separate line so I already had a need for running some cables. I agree with @Stevehose that anything you can do outside of the fusebox area is somewhat preferable given the tight quarters, especially if you are starting to add or convert the basic wiring
 
rsporsche said:
as i have just done this, i used a 10 ga red wire from the battery to a new relay (next to the battery) with an inline waterproof fuse (to pin 30 of the relay). the existing yellow wire was cut and fed into the relay (pin 86) ... pin 85 is a ground wire that runs down the harness to the light ground. then i ran 2 - 14 gauge yellow wires to the 2 low beam headlights (tied to pin 87 of the relay). its really pretty simple -
Click to expand...
Now jumper the yellow/white to the yellow in the dash if you want to go euro H one bulbs upfront, and all six bulbs will be lit at night on high beam
 
sfdon said:
Now jumper the yellow/white to the yellow in the dash if you want to go euro H one bulbs upfront, and all six bulbs will be lit at night on high beam
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Might make sense to somehow wire the “all six” option so you can turn the low beams on or off if you want, since having the H1 and H4 filaments on will really heat up the bulbs.
 
i believe the yellow / white wire is only on Euro versions, not USA versions of the pre '74 cars. the euro version uses h1 bulb low beam. on the euro version, there is a gray / yellow + gray / white wire that runs the city lights in the low beams and on the USA versions of the pre '74, these wires run the lower filament on the blinker as a 'parking' light
 
i am guessing Don is talking about the euro lights - the h1 low beam, the h1 high beam and the city lights .... or the 4 - h1 headlights and the fog / driving lights ... but Chris is correct, both filaments in the h4 bulbs never come on at the same time
 
I refuse to use H4 lamps.

Only H1 lamps in my cars.

H4 lamps are as ugly as USA front side marker/turn lenses.

Like grotesque goldfish eyes….

H1 bulbs fit exactly in the tool box-
H4 bulbs stay in the glove box where they belong
 
rsporsche said:
i believe the yellow / white wire is only on Euro versions, not USA versions of the pre '74 cars. the euro version uses h1 bulb low beam. on the euro version, there is a gray / yellow + gray / white wire that runs the city lights in the low beams and on the USA versions of the pre '74, these wires run the lower filament on the blinker as a 'parking' light
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I’ll let Mr. Macha answer that.

Meanwhile- I’m in Porto making wiring harnesses on rainy days…
 

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sfdon said:
I refuse to use H4 lamps.

Only H1 lamps in my cars.

H4 lamps are as ugly as USA front side marker/turn lenses.

Like grotesque goldfish eyes….

H1 bulbs fit exactly in the tool box-
H4 bulbs stay in the glove box where they belong
Click to expand...
Don, You can buy flat Hellas in H4 and they look great, just not cheap anymore it seems
 
I have been buying complete bucket and H1 lamp sets refinished out of Europe for the last year. Unbeatable quality and price.
For the price of two low beam lamps, I’m getting the whole set of four lamps and the buckets.
 
rsporsche said:
i am guessing Don is talking about the euro lights - the h1 low beam, the h1 high beam and the city lights .... or the 4 - h1 headlights and the fog / driving lights ... but Chris is correct, both filaments in the h4 bulbs never come on at the same time
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Yes, that's how it is supposed to work.
Low beams: Outer H4 low beam filaments on
High beams Inner H1 low beam filaments on, and outer H4 high beam filaments on.

Some guys rewire these so all six filaments are on that the same time. Recipe for short bulb life...

Here is the circuit I used for this on my euro 635, which came with 4-filament wiring.

4To6Conversion.jpg
 
anybody want to post a pic of 5 3/4" h1 low and high beam - would like to see the hella, cibie + marchal glass w/ part numbers
i've got h4 low beams from hella + cibie (in great shape / new - happy to sell for a reasonable price). i have marchal + hella high beam
 
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