First Time Engine Oil Change-- Oy!

Catbert

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The first Saturday after receiving my 1975 CSi, I put it on my QuickJack lift to begin the VamVaketis inspection process. Changing ALL of the fluids was already on my to-do list. It was convenient that my 1960 Austin Healey 3000 has the same engine oil requirements as the E9. I use Valvoline VR1 designed for racing and classic cars. My engine oil drain plug is the port type with a temp sensor connected. This is due to the three auxilliary gauges mounted on the dash in the speaker opening with one being an oil temp gauge.

The car was going to be on the lift for a while, so I was in no hurry. I didn't do my homework and presumed a 1975 German car used a standard spin-on oil filter. Errrrrp! Not. Next, I could not remove the drain plug as it was on too tight with hex plug edges that were rounded. So, I would have to order another one. I removed the sensor bolt and drained the oil that way. Then, I attempted to remove the oil filter housing dropping it down. Everyone knows that doesn't happen. I quickly found out it won't lift out from above, either. What? It is truly baffling why the BMW process engineers would leave oil changes to a sloppy method like this.

The Mann H 1038 filter was not available at your LCPS. Amazon delivery was 4+ weeks. That left eBay as a faster option, but still a one to two week delivery timeline. So be it. I ordered the Mann H 1038 X. When it arrived, the o-ring was a flat type with a slightly larger diameter, but too large. What? So, I reused the old o-ring.

After more research, I learned that the replacement o-ring appears too big but supposedly fits into a groove on the housing lid. I don't recall a groove and will investigate this during the next oil change. The AI wizard explained a few tricks to get the flat o-ring to seat properly in the groove and tighten it without coming free and binding. As the Zen Master says, "We'll see." Just in case, I intend to purchase a supply of the standard o-rings as they fit perfectly inside the houseing lid.

Final comment. With the benefit of a car lift, I have plenty of room to work underneath. I discovered that I could rotate the oil filter housing 180-degrees to drain it completely and clean it thoroughly. This method is just going to get a little oil spilled onto the nearby chassis metalwork. No big deal. Just not a tidy process.

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For a while the bottom bolt oil filters were hard to find. It will drop down but only if you have manual steering like in a CSL but it is frustrating. That is why I remove the housing from the block and have extra paper gaskets. Also, the rubber o-ring just sits on the filter can, there is no groove. On my e3 and e9 both have top bolt housings.
 
Do you have the older bolt on the bottom or newer bolt on the top type of housing? The bolt on the top is a bit easier to deal with, although I think many do what Chris suggested above and just remove the 4 bolts holding the entire housing onto the side of the engine. 4 bolts instead of 1 but easier to get to and less messy. Ireland Engineering also makes a spin-on adapter that makes the whole system into a more modern equivalent.
Also, nice to know you have an Austin - there's a fair contingent of us on here with an LBC in addition to our E9. I have a 62 MGA myself...
 
Do you have the older bolt on the bottom or newer bolt on the top type of housing? The bolt on the top is a bit easier to deal with, although I think many do what Chris suggested above and just remove the 4 bolts holding the entire housing onto the side of the engine. 4 bolts instead of 1 but easier to get to and less messy. Ireland Engineering also makes a spin-on adapter that makes the whole system into a more modern equivalent.
Also, nice to know you have an Austin - there's a fair contingent of us on here with an LBC in addition to our E9. I have a 62 MGA myself...
Bolt on bottom. Changing the oil is not a problem, just not a tidy process without taking some care to limit spills.
 
If you ever switch to the top bolt, remember the filter inserts are different (I think the top bolt version is longer.) I use the spin-on adapter so not a problem for me.
 
Just make sure you didn't accidentally discard the bottom cupped washer that often sticks to the old filter
 
Just make sure you didn't accidentally discard the bottom cupped washer that often sticks to the old filter
Yes! There is a spring and washer, the filter can is fatter too. The top bolt has no spring and is thinner so you won’t hit the Alternator as well.
 
Just make sure you didn't accidentally discard the bottom cupped washer that often sticks to the old filter
Well, maybe I did. Last night, I ran the engine to flush the coolant system. Sitting in the car on a lift, I decided to check for any leaks. To my surprise and shock, all of the engine oil had spilled on the floor. What!? I immediately turned off the engine and checked to see where the mess had come from. It's as if the oil cannister wasn't tightened at all! It didn't leak, it poured out. Is the part you are referring to #13 in the diagram? If so, can this be purchased anywhere. @sfdon... @TomHom... Input please.

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That washer serves to lift the oil filter up but I don’t think it has anything to do with the seal. Did you have the washer #3 there, which may be critical to prevent leakage from around the bolt? Take a look at the side of the canister - is there an oil leak running down the side suggesting the leak was from the upper gasket or is the side clean and the leak came out the bottom?
If you end up needing that washer, I think I have one. I had heard the warning stories about that washer getting lost and bought one only to realize that it isn’t necessary in the top bolt filter canisters -it doesn’t fit down in there.
 
That washer serves to lift the oil filter up but I don’t think it has anything to do with the seal. Did you have the washer #3 there, which may be critical to prevent leakage from around the bolt? Take a look at the side of the canister - is there an oil leak running down the side suggesting the leak was from the upper gasket or is the side clean and the leak came out the bottom?
If you end up needing that washer, I think I have one. I had heard the warning stories about that washer getting lost and bought one only to realize that it isn’t necessary in the top bolt filter canisters -it doesn’t fit down in there.
Thanks for your reply, @e9Leveque. I've been changing oil in my cars for 50 years and never experienced anything like this. It really gets under my skin how something so bad could happen. After work today, I will be on my back lying on a very slippery garage floor to see what I find.
 
Washer 13 and seal 14 seal the bottom of the filter element, keeping filtered oil separated from un-filtered oil within the cannister.
As pointed out #3 is the external seal for the bolt (copper or aluminum ring). It is also easy to pinch the upper flat rubber ring and easier yet to pinch an o-ring :(
 
Washer 13 and seal 14 seal the bottom of the filter element, keeping filtered oil separated from un-filtered oil within the cannister.
As pointed out #3 is the external seal for the bolt (copper or aluminum ring). It is also easy to pinch the upper flat rubber ring and easier yet to pinch an o-ring :(
I am quite eager (and anxious) to discover what happened when I arrive home today. Thanks for the tips. I just hope nothing got thrown away when I changed the filter element weeks ago. My car has been on a lift since it was delivered.
 
By my recollection this part is somewhat hard to find, it tends to be out of stock everywhere. Extra annoying because unlike other parts this is one that it seems owners tend to accidentally dispose of. As I said, I think I have one, maybe it’s worth scanning for future reference…
 
By my recollection this part is somewhat hard to find, it tends to be out of stock everywhere. Extra annoying because unlike other parts this is one that it seems owners tend to accidentally dispose of. As I said, I think I have one, maybe it’s worth scanning for future reference…
Thanks! I find out what's going on in about 5 hours.
 
Probably pinched the upper o ring, that is usually what happens Chris does it the right way, pull the whole housing off, just 4 bolts and take it apart in a vice, then you can wash out everything and put it together without worrying about pinching the seal Most times, you don't even have to replace the housing gasket This is the way we did it at the dealership

Thanks, Rick
 
Probably pinched the upper o ring, that is usually what happens Chris does it the right way, pull the whole housing off, just 4 bolts and take it apart in a vice, then you can wash out everything and put it together without worrying about pinching the seal Most times, you don't even have to replace the housing gasket This is the way we did it at the dealership

Thanks, Rick
Yeah... think I'll follow the dealer way. I hope it's a pinched o-ring. While I am super careful doing things like this, working from underneath is working blind. Getting the bolt to align properly was a bit of a chore, too. Thanks Rick.
 
Well, the "mystery" is solved as to why I had a catastrophic oil leak. I was hoping for something major that would easily explain why the engine oil ended-up on my garage floor. I got my wish. The car is on a lift so I did not bother to stand on a step stool after changing the oil filter for the first time. Yeah, kinda embarrassing but I was really happy to see how badly the canister wasn't sealed. So, going forward I will remove the canister completely when changing the filter. Oh, I saw how the bolt, spring, and washer assembly all goes together. Nothing is missing and could not be missing as that assembly stays put when the nut on the big bolt is removed. Yay! No parts to scrounge for... this time.
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Does the bottom of your oil filter have the large cupped washer stuck to it? #13 in diagram. 11421252466
FCP is out of stock but they do have a nice picture.
The "double lip" seal (think bulkhead grommet) is installed on that plate. 11421252465
Your picture seems to show only the lower half of that seal
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