Fuel lines are straight, no flare or bulb
72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration
- Thread starter ScottAndrews
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I have the HF trans jack. For a non BMW install, I found the load was a bit wobbly and the jack was very stiff to raise under load. As heavy as our engine and trans are, if I use the HF jack at all, it will be for each component separately.
Yeah, this is my concern too. I think I will build a crib that holds the subframe slightly higher than when it is in the car (which is not very high). I'll put it on large casters so it is easy to maneuver, and I'll use 4 bottle jacks at each corner so I can tweak the tilt of the assembly during installation, once it is positioned correctly. No interest in balancing the engine and trans with headers on a tippy transmission jack
Fun, but exhausting three days of racing at the USGP at COTA in Austin this weekend! My son came in from Chicago, and we took my Daughter's 4 YO (all cars all the the time Bennie) for practice on Friday.. Great racing included the 16-24 YO women's F1 Academy race (really good wheel to wheel racing!), the Carerra Cup, a vintage F1 car race, and the F1 GP (Antonelli was superb!)
Getting ready to have the car back in late November. One of the first things I'll need to do is to install fuel and brake lines.
A couple of questions:
1) I have read about issues with cheap Chinese CuNi brake lines bursting under pressure. What brands can I trust, and from what suppliers? Summit sells StopShop CuNi line for about $55/25 ft. Any issues with this stuff?
2) Summit also sells two different bubble flare fittings. One is zinc plated steel, and the other is stainless. Stainless sounds like a good plan, but I have had issues in the past with SS bolts and nuts galling and becoming stuck, which would be awful on a brand new rebuilt caliper.... Anyone have any experience with these different types? I see Belmetric also sells black oxide fittings..so similar question on what folks have used...
Does anyone have a line straightening tool I can borrow? Summit sells a nice one but it is $200! If I end up buying it, I'll make it available to others with a small return deposit.
TIA, as always...
A couple of questions:
1) I have read about issues with cheap Chinese CuNi brake lines bursting under pressure. What brands can I trust, and from what suppliers? Summit sells StopShop CuNi line for about $55/25 ft. Any issues with this stuff?
2) Summit also sells two different bubble flare fittings. One is zinc plated steel, and the other is stainless. Stainless sounds like a good plan, but I have had issues in the past with SS bolts and nuts galling and becoming stuck, which would be awful on a brand new rebuilt caliper.... Anyone have any experience with these different types? I see Belmetric also sells black oxide fittings..so similar question on what folks have used...
Does anyone have a line straightening tool I can borrow? Summit sells a nice one but it is $200! If I end up buying it, I'll make it available to others with a small return deposit.
TIA, as always...
Hey Scott,
1) I’ve used StopShop CuNi lines on dozens of projects with thousands of combined miles without issue.
2) I’ve always used zinc-plated steel fittings with CuNi lines. A hint of anti-seize on the threads, if you’re really worried.
For CuNi, you may find that pulling the tubing though a 2x4 clamped in a vice with a small hole drilled through it is quite effective and very fast. I did this until I broke into the world of bending stainless lines, at which point I sprung for the Stupid Simple Tools (SST) line straightener.
I’d be happy to loan it to ya. Will shoot you a message to coordinate.
1) I’ve used StopShop CuNi lines on dozens of projects with thousands of combined miles without issue.
2) I’ve always used zinc-plated steel fittings with CuNi lines. A hint of anti-seize on the threads, if you’re really worried.
For CuNi, you may find that pulling the tubing though a 2x4 clamped in a vice with a small hole drilled through it is quite effective and very fast. I did this until I broke into the world of bending stainless lines, at which point I sprung for the Stupid Simple Tools (SST) line straightener.
I’d be happy to loan it to ya. Will shoot you a message to coordinate.
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I have in on good authority that full brake lines will be available soon @ Ireland or direct from Andrew Adams
There are some "full line" kits available, but even for those, the long rear brake line is coiled up. And there is no fuel line I have seen available.
I have no problem making my own lines, and I can assure that they are correct, and of good quality.
I used the Ireland engineering kit, mainly because it had the flare fittings on there. Don and Ed kindly asked if I had done flare fittings before and when my answer was “no, but I think I can figure it out” they suggested I had other ways to spend my time. The kit worked well, most of the bends were correct but a few needed tweaking. For the fuel lines as mentioned earlier I used 4lifetimelines and was pleased with the product.
IE does not have the E9 lines in stock, so I’m just going to do the whole set myself from CuNi stock
And while I always would support purchasing high quality tools, the $40 brake line straightening tool from the worlds largest store would work fine. It also allows bending but I found a hand-held bender a little easier to use. Could pick up both for about $60 if you can’t find any to borrow.
Andrew Anderson sent me an email telling me he was making lines for IE and asked me if I wanted a set. Send me a PM if you want his email address.
I found a nice quality one I can borrow for postage... Ordered 2 sets of 25 feet of CuNi line and a pile of M10 fittings all from Belmetric.
Plan to order the bubble flare tool from Summit. I have bending took I got when I had to do refrigeration lines on my houseboat.
I think replicating the original lines will be a fun little project! Just need to be sure I remember to put the flare fittings on the line BEFORE I flare the ends... AMHIKT
When bending lines from scratch, I've found it helpful to first make a template using 1/8" aluminum welding wire. It's rigid, yet malleable making it easy to form in-situ.
I believe this is what I have: Blue Demon 4043 1/8 X 36" Aluminum TIG Welding Rod - 1lb Pack
I believe this is what I have: Blue Demon 4043 1/8 X 36" Aluminum TIG Welding Rod - 1lb Pack
I also have all of the original lines to use as guides. And I have a very nice tube bender I got when I originally did a mini split AC system. I checked it, and it will work with 3/16 tubes. My thought is to put the original in the bender, and rotate the bender arms to get the right bend, then mark on the tube where the bender landmarks go. Transfer those to the new straight tube and replicate the bend. So that does the bend itself - all I need to worry about is the bend plane. But the wire idea seems like a good one..
Whew!! Been out of town for three weeks. First the USGP in Austin, and then 2 weeks working a patent trial in Arkansas. Finally headed home today after about 6 hours on the stand yesterday. Can't wait to get back to working on the car! Paint should be on by now, and I will be taking the renovated sub-frames, wheels, and suspension bits down so Don's guys can put them back on the car, so we can trailer it home. Then it's time to start renovating the wiring harness!!!
I’m looking forward to you diving into the wiring harness. Knowing your proclivities I think we are going to see next-level wiring work. Have you already laid out extra relays, etc? As I had asked in a prior thread (and ended up doing) may be worth having a few extra runs laid into strategic parts of the car for any future upgrades/changes.