First Oil/Filter Change

N

NewSixCoupe

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
1,141
Reaction score
50
Location
Northeast
Hi.
My car has the bolt-on oil filter cartridge housing; anything I should look out for? I have the oil drain plug torque spec from the blue books but can't find a spec for the four bolts that secure the housing. Anyone know? There's a bolt torque chart in the blue books but I'm not sure of the size...
Thanks for any help.
 
if i understood well you have this type of filter:

171020101236.jpg


if this is the case, to change the filter cartridge you do not need to dissasemble the aluminium support (the mentioned 4 screws)

171020101231.jpg

171020101233.jpg

151020101222.jpg


you only need to remove the bottom screw and then the container will fall down,

then you will remove the filter cartridge, and replace it with a new one, a new gasket and fix the long screw again (you will need to push to fix it meanwhile screwing the screw)

only one important comprobation, check that the botom plate (red arrowed in the following picture) that press the cartridge (by means of the bottom spring) is not glued to the old cartridge,
30c9ilj.jpg



otherwise you will lose it and the filtering operation of your filter will dissappear (ask me about it if you have questions)
 
Thanks. Yes, I have the same assembly shown in your first photo. I thought the housing had to be removed to change the gasket every time the filter was changed?
 
Some people take the entire 4 bolt housing off instead of the single bolt because as you will see when you remove the bolt, oil will come gushing out so put a plastic baggie around the housing to minimise the spillage. The 4 bolt method is less messy and easier to access but usually requires fitting of a new gasket.
 
I use the 4-bolt method, as it's a PITA to get the housing down and past the alt and PS pump. The gaskets are cheap, and I find this method easier.

Regardless of how you do it, pull your positive battery cable-- If you drop the filter canister down you can hit the alt., and if you take the ass'y up, you can hit the positive terminal on the battery with your tools and/or the filter ass'y as you're bringing it up.

I also couldn't find torque settings for the bolts, so I just use a 3/8" short ratchet and feel, and make sure to tighten in a cross pattern on the 4 bolts.

Good luck and have fun!
 
Stevehose said:
Some people take the entire 4 bolt housing off instead of the single bolt because as you will see when you remove the bolt, oil will come gushing out so put a plastic baggie around the housing to minimise the spillage. The 4 bolt method is less messy and easier to access but usually requires fitting of a new gasket.
Click to expand...

+1...the plastic bag works great for the one cannister bolt. If you go the 4 bolt way still use a bag and on re-mounting be careful to not over-tighten the bolts through the aluminum housing and re-tighten once you have run the engine to op temp and let cool.

Jon
 
Thanks, everyone. My mechanic usually pulls the housing when I have him change the oil filter; I want to start changing the oil/filter myself and will probably follow this procedure. One more thing—there's no need to loosen the alternator with the four-bolt method, right?
 
no, you do not need to touch it, but, probably you will need to make a little space for the whole assembly in its way up-out (battery, air filter, vacuum brake hose,...)

anyway there is very little space to unscrew and screw so you probably need to adapt your tools/hands to that task
 
thanks stevehose for the tips, i´d never thought about the 4 bolt method, it can be interesting to avoid the oil droping from the bottom hole, anyway, you will need to change the 4-hole paper gasket + the rubber gasket for the canister

the only point that i can find against that, is that the assembly is not thought for that way of work, that means if you are changing your filter once a year i would not be very happy with the induced tensions in the engine block threads that are not designed for that continous dissasembly and assembly

in my case i have done a complete tear down of the system in order to introduce a oil temperature sensor in the aluminum support, and I have learned that the paper gasket was almost impossible to remove (i did that destroying it and finally cleaning the surface with sandpaper), but of course this depends on the time the gasket was there.

fortunately the 4 bolts were very easy to remove

summarising, I appreciate the plastic bag tip to remove the canister without spilling the oil, and I think I will do in the prescribed way in the future

regards
 
CookeD said:
I use the 4-bolt method, as it's a PITA to get the housing down and past the alt and PS pump. The gaskets are cheap, and I find this method easier.

Good luck and have fun!
Click to expand...

as you have a cs, like me, I can not understand why you take the assembly out all the way down, if you remove the air filter housing, you can easily take it away up, as it is enough space through there

I tried downwards and it was impossible for me

161020101226.jpg



181020101245.jpg

regards
 
Last edited:
No, I don't take it down... Did it once, but had the PS pump out of the way.

Good pics, by the way, as it shows what needs to happen.

Also worth mentioning: When removing the housing, you're going to spill some oil down the side of the block. Position your drain pan under the housing before removing bolts. Get the top bolts out of the way first, and then use two hands to back out the bottom bolts one at a time while holding the assy with one hand and tilting the top away from the motor to keep the oil inside and from spilling. If you keep your air filter on, it functions as a handy workbench for the bolts.

Also, it's kinda awkward and does have some weight, so have a good grip with one hand when the bolts come out so you don't have a spill. Use a razor blade to remove the gasket if stuck to either surface.

Also, nobody mentioned beer... It's a good idea to have some on hand as well.
 
My next purchase will be the spin-on adapter, I had one on my first coupe and it was money well spent. Simple Purolater filter available anywhere no fuss, no mess!
 
Len,

If your oil filter housing/canister has a top bolt and not the bottom of the canister bolt it is also much easier to just remove the canister. Either way it won't go down unless you have no PS pump. With a top bolt canister I just remove the regulator harness from back of alternator (not needed now as I have upgraded to an internally regulated Alt) and I wiggle it out the top encassed in a large ziploc bag which is much stronger and won't tear. HTH.

Spin-on filter would be even easier but will look a little odd only if you value originality.
 
Stevehose said:
My next purchase will be the spin-on adapter, I had one on my first coupe and it was money well spent. Simple Purolater filter available anywhere no fuss, no mess!
Click to expand...

i messed Up two gaskets and broke the guide sleeve on the canister:(.
Can you tell me where you got the spin-on adapter from?
I know i am not going to do this a second time :(
 
Len:
I have always used the four-bolt method to replace the filter, etc. Easiest way to do it. And, as for a new gasket, well, I have reused the old one for much longer than I care to admit and have never had any leaks...(but I will change it out the next time I change the filter now that I have acquired some gasket material and saw an article in a classic car magazine about how to make your own gaskets)
Bill W.
 
Why make a custom gasket when you can get a new one for ~$2.50? Note, that there are three different shapes available.
 
Original Filter can and Gaskets

Guys,

The original filter can is still available new for those that might need one.

Gaskets for the housing:

There are three for the three types of factory oil canisters, original, top bolt, and B35.

The last is different, meaning be careful with the gasket as substituting an earlier gasket can allow a bypass situation to occur resulting in abnormally low oil pressure even in a newly rebuilt engine for a $2.50 part.:cry:

Lesson-don't overlook the small stuff- match the gasket to the housing and the engine.
 
Sven: because I have a few sheets of gasket paper, because making gaskets is easy, and because I don't want to drive 10 miles to my dealer to buy one gasket, which they will invariably have to order from somewhere, which means I would have to come back again. But, you make a point. Just my preference. If I ever need a part and have to go to the dealer to get it, perhaps I will order some gaskets...If I remember.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top