My BMW journey has begun
- Thread starter D Calkins
- Start date
Congratulations. Thats a lot of keys.
On your wiring question, picture needs to show colors of the wiring. Remove the electrical tape and take another picture. Also, there are two wiring systems for the e9s, so when you ask questions like this you need to specify which car you have. I believe you have a 2800, which would be the earlier model. One of the best ways to do this is to add a signature to your profile and list the year and model of your car. That way it will be right there any time you ask a question. (Some of us like to include our names in the signature line as well).
On your wiring question, picture needs to show colors of the wiring. Remove the electrical tape and take another picture. Also, there are two wiring systems for the e9s, so when you ask questions like this you need to specify which car you have. I believe you have a 2800, which would be the earlier model. One of the best ways to do this is to add a signature to your profile and list the year and model of your car. That way it will be right there any time you ask a question. (Some of us like to include our names in the signature line as well).
Wladek
Well-Known Member
Probably additional radio antenna was somewhere close to left A-post & now you have extra antenna wires in fusebox area.
jmackro
Well-Known Member
Yes, no argument there.
But what about that pair of white & black wires in photo #114101, coming out of the compartment that holds the fuse box and hood release? Most factory wiring in an e9 is multi-colored; e.g., black with a white spiral stripe. Solid colored wires, black or white, are more rare. It would help to know where these wires are connected; to the fuse box? Spliced to other wires? Are the two wires connected under that electrical tape, or insulated from each-other?
Those are the same wires. I simply removed the electrical tape per Ohmess's recomendations
As yes, big bumpers. I forgot about that. Anyway, you can click on your name on the upper right hand portion of the screen, and signature should appear in the drop down menu. Click on Signature and enter something like "1974 3.0 CS" or CSI or whatever. Then, whenever you ask a technical question about your car, we will have that information.
As to the wire you found, yes, the radio antenna would route through there for a front fender mounted antenna. Unless you have a specific reason to start with electrical (as I did with all the melted wiring from a half-assed stereo install), I would prioritize other things. Indeed, unless you already have a plan, I recommend looking at Rob Seigel's first book "Memoirs of a Hack Mechanic" and specifically go through the stuff he wrote about making an old car reliable.
As to the wire you found, yes, the radio antenna would route through there for a front fender mounted antenna. Unless you have a specific reason to start with electrical (as I did with all the melted wiring from a half-assed stereo install), I would prioritize other things. Indeed, unless you already have a plan, I recommend looking at Rob Seigel's first book "Memoirs of a Hack Mechanic" and specifically go through the stuff he wrote about making an old car reliable.
jmackro
Well-Known Member
Oh, OK - sorry for the mix-up. In photo #530137, the black wire is a little harder to see, so I thought that was a separate problem. I guess a previous owner spliced the coaxial cable from a new antenna to an existing one that went to the radio, rather go to the trouble of running a direct cable. Previous owners do things like that.
DAPO
My immediate priorities based on the inspection that boonies did for me are the following:
1) brakes
2) get some die to restore the marine blue leather
3) window regulator channel cleanup and if necessary upgrade the motor
Thanks for the heads up on the book, I just ordered it from Amazon along with a Chilton's repair manual
David
1) brakes
2) get some die to restore the marine blue leather
3) window regulator channel cleanup and if necessary upgrade the motor
Thanks for the heads up on the book, I just ordered it from Amazon along with a Chilton's repair manual
David
Congratulations on your new toy David!
My impression was that the radiator is a new one, If you are able to get a good look at the fins and find them to be crisp, with no oxidation you can gain a little more comfort about the condition.
There are some very helpful posts here about cleaning up the window channels and refreshing the grease in the transmissions that work with the window motors. It is a rewarding project. When you decide to tackle that there a few things to do while you are in there…remove the door latch and clean it (ultrasonic cleaner works really well for this) and then lubricate. That will require you to dis-assemble the latch rods and that is a perfect opportunity to renew the anti-rattle bushings inside the door.
My impression was that the radiator is a new one, If you are able to get a good look at the fins and find them to be crisp, with no oxidation you can gain a little more comfort about the condition.
There are some very helpful posts here about cleaning up the window channels and refreshing the grease in the transmissions that work with the window motors. It is a rewarding project. When you decide to tackle that there a few things to do while you are in there…remove the door latch and clean it (ultrasonic cleaner works really well for this) and then lubricate. That will require you to dis-assemble the latch rods and that is a perfect opportunity to renew the anti-rattle bushings inside the door.
Hi David - Change the brake lines and fluid immediately. Old brake lines can actually deteriorate from the inside, and when they do little balls of rubber will float around in the braking system causing problems. On my car, those little things migrated into the rear brake proportioning valve, and I had to replace the valve.
As to dye, I have had good luck with the folks at colorplus. Link here: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/what-are-the-top-sources-for-parts-and-service.33895/post-388686
For reference materials, this book is also excellent. You can print it from our web site, or buy a copy online: https://e9coupe.com/tech/autobooks/autobooks_manual.pdf
The 74 motors are very similar to e28. The rear track has steel rollers and ball bearings, I removed mine and soaked in gasoline, huge improvement.
Welcome to the forum!
Off to a good start - you have a "new" replacement radiator in your car - BEHR started production in South Africa about 15 years ago.
Always good to also check the condition of your belts and cooler hoses, and potentially consider replacing the water pump. Once you have driven the car for a bit, you can see how it behaves temp wise and if can clutch/fan work as expected. Enjoy!
Off to a good start - you have a "new" replacement radiator in your car - BEHR started production in South Africa about 15 years ago.
Always good to also check the condition of your belts and cooler hoses, and potentially consider replacing the water pump. Once you have driven the car for a bit, you can see how it behaves temp wise and if can clutch/fan work as expected. Enjoy!