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Yes, I was wondering if it was a change in materials. I hadn't thought of the bolts though, I was thinking of the gasket itself perhaps being able to withstand more pressure. Bolts could also have been improved.

Hesitant about posting this one, as I know it's been covered plenty times already. A slightly different take on a very familiar query. Haynes for E3 states final torque of 49-52 lbft, no angles, no re-torque Haynes for E12 says 56-59 lbft, again no angles or re-torquing A reprint of an E3 & E9...

Thanks for the response, yes it looks like they come in two sorts (or my memory is no good :oops:) I have popped it back in and primed it and the tensioner rail firmed up up nicely Cheers

Just buttoning the engine back up. When I took the timing chain tensioner spring and piston out last week I was expecting a small ball bearing to fall out. Nothing came out. Just checking on this as I am rebuilding, turns out my memory was correct and there should have been a 5mm ball bearing in...

my non expert view = anti-clockwise. The engine turns anticlockwise (when viewed from the rear). And the 'box turns the same way on the output as the input shaft I recall failing diff mounts is a "common" E24 issue. The fatigue eventually pulls the mounting from the car body

Condition is the main thing I think, original is good, crusty is bad! Needs a thorough going over I fear, looking for rust and/or shonky resto work. UK CSLs spent a long time neglected by the market, so can have been subject to mediocre resto work in the 80s and 90s

I've had the intake and valve cover bead blasted, and then cleaned ultrasonically, the interior of the valve cover still feels a bit gritty however. Is there a best way to clean the last of the residue? Brake cleaner and a scrubbing brush? Thanks Injectors came back today, so plan to rebuild...

having just had the alu parts on my intake bead blasted, and the steel parts zinc plated, I can recommend this do you need any gaskets? I bought a stack of BMW NOS stock from a closing garage, mainly gaskets and oil seals (for carb & injection cars). but also bearings and carb & fuel pump...

Sharing some piccies, fasteners etc back from zinc platers, intake alu parts just back from bead blasting. Injectors with a historic injector rebuilder, should be back at the weekend. Will check valve clearances... whilst I'm there!! Questions: How to route the rubber fuel lines from the hard...

You have PM Ta

Spoken to a couple of shops here in the UK. Both propose media blasting for the alu parts, with glass beads. One shop then proposes leaving the alu bare, i.e. no coating. The other shop suggested a clear lacquer or clear powder coating. Have to say, I'm leaning towards leaving the alu finish...

Just looking at the b35 engine up in "parts for sale"... stunning. I've got the intake and fuel system fully in bits right now, with the aluminium parts in the boot/trunk, and want them sparkly before rebuilding. What's best to do? I confess I've never worried too much about engine bay detailing...

Yes, sounds fine I was just checking the pins under the orange cover on my car, I only have pins 1,2,3,7,8 & 9, and none is connected to the stater solenoid so far as I could tell. It's possible to apply 12v (fused of course!!) to the starter solenoid directly, which means neither the fuel...

I'd had exactly the same thought. I came across an inner tube whilst hunting in my garage for some teflon sheet. I think the genuine pads are made of teflon, feels like teflon anyway. Same stuff as in the sliding brake calipers on mk2 golfs!

That's a shocker. Is there any prospect of this perverse decision being reversed in the future?

Hi Simon, the metal fuel lines look good, no sign of any rust. Pleasing, as I had a metal line rust through on my E24. I've taken the whole fuel system out of the engine bay now, will be replacing the rubber. Injectors are going to a Bosch service place on Monday, so I should know if I need any...

Hi all, need some help. I needed to undo a few of the metal tabs which secure the metal fuel lines running under the floorpan, to get to the last two jubilee clips in the engine bay. There is a small plastic "pad" wrapped around the fuel line where the metal tabs secure the fuel line. I can't...

Hi Bert, I might have one, from a non AC rhd E12 based 6er, I think. I can dig it out if you might be interested.

Sold! Off to a zinc plater tomorrow with my bag of bits, I've listed it all out, just hope I can remember which fasteners go where... For the rubber fuel lines running up from the hard fuel lines, up to the d-jet fuel rail (via the filter) and returning from the pressure regulator, what's the...

for compression testing, you want to get as much air flowing (and compressing) as possible, so keep the throttle wide open so the "suck" is not just drawing a vacuum. I keep turning the engine until the needle on the gauge is stable(ish). Important to be consistent with this on all 6 cylinders...