Search results

good question, I'm not 100% sure what my ignition is. I'll stick a photo up. It defo doesn't have any points however, so it's not original. I can't feel any play in the dizzy shaft however, and the timing gun shows a steady and clear mark on the vibration damper.

thanks for the replies, I will reset the idle speed back to 950, and then set the timing to 22 btdc at 2500rpm. That should make it a bit smoother I don't have a tacho on my timing gun, but I instead use a tacho hooked up to the coil so that I can monitor rpms in the engine bay, instead of...

A thread a few weeks back about how to test cylinder compression prompted me to take a few piccies this afternoon. The way I do it.... is to disconnect the main relay at the ballast resistor (which means the fuel pump and d jet injection is not powered), and disconnect the hot side the coil...

I've done quite of bit of housekeeping type maintenance on the top end of my CSL. I now have compression test results of 176-186 psi (cold), which I think is ok? It's the original 3003cc block with a later '85 head, in case that makes a difference. For ignition timing I've used 22degs btdc at...

Is the issue you're seeing the cold start valve or the aux air valve? I think of the cold start valve as the 7th fuel injector, which dumps extra fuel into the manifold on a cold start The aux air valve (aka the slide valve) is the extra air intake, controlled by the wax bulb stat. Your issue...

After buttoning up the engine I had a few drips of coolant coming from the front of the engine. Wanted to share my patented weep finding trick. Rather than running the engine up to temp and poking around a hot engine, I use a tyre compressor to pressurise the system. I have an old hose with a...

Having just been in there on my csl, the seals were old and pretty solid. Last documented engine rebuild was in the late 80s, which seems about right. Anyway, mine weren't leaking fuel or air, despite their antiquity Are you sure the fuel is coming from that seal? With the engine running the...

Yes, I was wondering if it was a change in materials. I hadn't thought of the bolts though, I was thinking of the gasket itself perhaps being able to withstand more pressure. Bolts could also have been improved.

Hesitant about posting this one, as I know it's been covered plenty times already. A slightly different take on a very familiar query. Haynes for E3 states final torque of 49-52 lbft, no angles, no re-torque Haynes for E12 says 56-59 lbft, again no angles or re-torquing A reprint of an E3 & E9...

Thanks for the response, yes it looks like they come in two sorts (or my memory is no good :oops:) I have popped it back in and primed it and the tensioner rail firmed up up nicely Cheers

Just buttoning the engine back up. When I took the timing chain tensioner spring and piston out last week I was expecting a small ball bearing to fall out. Nothing came out. Just checking on this as I am rebuilding, turns out my memory was correct and there should have been a 5mm ball bearing in...

my non expert view = anti-clockwise. The engine turns anticlockwise (when viewed from the rear). And the 'box turns the same way on the output as the input shaft I recall failing diff mounts is a "common" E24 issue. The fatigue eventually pulls the mounting from the car body

Condition is the main thing I think, original is good, crusty is bad! Needs a thorough going over I fear, looking for rust and/or shonky resto work. UK CSLs spent a long time neglected by the market, so can have been subject to mediocre resto work in the 80s and 90s

I've had the intake and valve cover bead blasted, and then cleaned ultrasonically, the interior of the valve cover still feels a bit gritty however. Is there a best way to clean the last of the residue? Brake cleaner and a scrubbing brush? Thanks Injectors came back today, so plan to rebuild...

having just had the alu parts on my intake bead blasted, and the steel parts zinc plated, I can recommend this do you need any gaskets? I bought a stack of BMW NOS stock from a closing garage, mainly gaskets and oil seals (for carb & injection cars). but also bearings and carb & fuel pump...

Sharing some piccies, fasteners etc back from zinc platers, intake alu parts just back from bead blasting. Injectors with a historic injector rebuilder, should be back at the weekend. Will check valve clearances... whilst I'm there!! Questions: How to route the rubber fuel lines from the hard...

You have PM Ta

Spoken to a couple of shops here in the UK. Both propose media blasting for the alu parts, with glass beads. One shop then proposes leaving the alu bare, i.e. no coating. The other shop suggested a clear lacquer or clear powder coating. Have to say, I'm leaning towards leaving the alu finish...

Just looking at the b35 engine up in "parts for sale"... stunning. I've got the intake and fuel system fully in bits right now, with the aluminium parts in the boot/trunk, and want them sparkly before rebuilding. What's best to do? I confess I've never worried too much about engine bay detailing...

Yes, sounds fine I was just checking the pins under the orange cover on my car, I only have pins 1,2,3,7,8 & 9, and none is connected to the stater solenoid so far as I could tell. It's possible to apply 12v (fused of course!!) to the starter solenoid directly, which means neither the fuel...