1971 2800 Sahara

TedS

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $
Messages
306
Reaction score
177
Location
SoCal
Great to watch. Thanks for documenting. You got the dash out without removing the windshield?
 

Frederick

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
358
Reaction score
276
Location
Park City,UT
Yes, no problem. Was not aware it might be an issue.
IMG_1450.JPG
 

Frederick

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
358
Reaction score
276
Location
Park City,UT
Likely, stupid is as stupid does. :oops:

But looking at it now, can't see how the windshield would be involved. But assuredly, I am no expert and defer to those with superior skill and knowledge. This is my first rodeo. Nevertheless, I am not removing the windshield just yet.
 

dang

Administrator
Site Donor
Messages
4,247
Reaction score
3,262
Location
Rocklin, CA
Your under dash color is original but I can't tell what it is. Looks Chamonix.
 

Frederick

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
358
Reaction score
276
Location
Park City,UT
BACK ON FOUR WHEELS!
Making progress. Motor is out. Front sub-frame out and going to meet its rear end at the Powder Keg in Salt Lake.
Most of the shiny stuff is at the polisher. If not mistaken, only the bumpers are “chrome.” Everything else polished and “anodized”
stainless steel, aluminum or pot metal.
The Jegs rolling jack works great. But was a bear to get under the car and adjusted. By myself, really only one jack, and OH,
after you have removed all this stuff from under the car, and have it on jack stands, “jack points” become scarce.
Got brakes back from PMB Performane. Cant recommend them to highly. Nice people, great work and “timely.” ( which is not easy to find nowadays)
They also zinc plate and did a half gallon bucket of bolts for ender $200. Have nothing to compare to but I thought it was a good price. PMG
will also do the struts and maybe paint. (They are the “Coupe King of Porsche 914’s) They must have 30 of them in various stages. Did not know they had that many left.

Could use some input on the front and rear struts, shocks, springs. I have a set of billstein‘s for the rear that came with the car. I think I may go with
IE’s coil over for the rear and I have been recommended billstein‘s and E9 Front springs. So I’ll be looking for a set of those. Unless I’m incorrect.

Was also wondering whether I need to do anything with the driveshaft. According to Jim at Metric mechanic, if I stay with the four-speed and go with a 3.25 rear end
I don’t have to do any modifications to the tunnel or the driveshaft, or anything else. He says that The 3700 rally motor with that rear end should work fantastic
and has done it for another customer.
So, should I just clean up the driveshaft or does it need professional attention. It is otherwise in good shape.

CDF33725-61EB-4FD4-A4A1-3038556D302A.jpeg

BDB92B16-9836-46EC-8E28-79504013B7A6.jpeg

0534EC44-D98B-4FC3-A57F-F990FD68C15F.jpeg

F2DEB82C-92FF-478A-8BF1-B3357F95F4DA.jpeg

7938A94D-4EEF-4E83-AB8F-F1C51A15DC6A.jpeg
 

Frederick

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
358
Reaction score
276
Location
Park City,UT
Well the 2800 is officially stripped. Pulled the wiring harnesses and some small bits. It is the first thing I have done that really scares me.What a mess!!
Seems like some "J boxes" could have been utilized but perhaps this is not done in cars.

Also collecting parts and cataloging.
Not sure what to do next. Get it Blasted and do the underside?
Did locate a nice paint shop thanks to a PMG Performance source. Hard to find someone willing to do "whole" cars. Have no idea what paint costs but it likely start at Earl Shieb and goes on ad infinitum. I was quoted, suggested 15 to 18K for color change to Agave and repairs etc. I was hoping for around 10k.

Sure hope I can get all back together. I calculate 5 1/2 full months from start to stripped. Course this included cleaning, repairing and sourcing and building more storage in the garage.

IMG_1547.JPG
IMG_1546.JPG
IMG_1543.JPG
 

bluecoupe30!

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
2,136
Reaction score
1,283
Location
Delta, British Columbia, Canada
We all remember the days when you could conceivably get a car painted for $10K. But then they started declaring paint evil, so new formulations had to be brewed. These cost more, so customer pays more. Not surprising to hear of $30K and up for a repaint. (I admit, this value is probably way low) Really need a "connection" to someone who knows what he is doing, to get any kinda break in the price of a repaint, these days. Best of luck, and I mean that. It is possible.
 

Fritzie

Active Member
Messages
72
Reaction score
61
Location
The Netherlands
Well the 2800 is officially stripped. Pulled the wiring harnesses and some small bits. It is the first thing I have done that really scares me.What a mess!!
Seems like some "J boxes" could have been utilized but perhaps this is not done in cars.

Also collecting parts and cataloging.
Not sure what to do next. Get it Blasted and do the underside?
Did locate a nice paint shop thanks to a PMG Performance source. Hard to find someone willing to do "whole" cars. Have no idea what paint costs but it likely start at Earl Shieb and goes on ad infinitum. I was quoted, suggested 15 to 18K for color change to Agave and repairs etc. I was hoping for around 10k.

Sure hope I can get all back together. I calculate 5 1/2 full months from start to stripped. Course this included cleaning, repairing and sourcing and building more storage in the garage.

View attachment 139923View attachment 139924View attachment 139925
Very nice
 

Mo Brighta

Well-Known Member
Messages
117
Reaction score
45
Location
Golden, CO
Hey all, back after a bit of a vacation... just discovered this project. Oh, MY. What a great place to begin a restoration, looks great so far! Hope there's no more cancer to restore, that is usually a death knell for cars of this vintage.

If you need any help with lighting, I'd be glad to offer my support, suggestions, and work.
I am busy doing restorations on the internals of rear lights of this era BMW, and have new headlights you would be happy with. Looks like it had sealed beams when you got hold of it, I have a set of four new Halogens that will serve you well. They are returns, available at a good-guy discount; with all this on your plate, you deserve one!

Andy
 

Frederick

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
358
Reaction score
276
Location
Park City,UT
Thanks Andy, It is a CLEAN SLATE at this point. I could certainly use all the advise I can get. Very little rust which is why I bought it, Will know more after it is blasted
but certainly nothing major or structural.
You are correct,came with four sealed beams. send me a pic and price for the Halogens. Any wiring upgrade necessary?
 

Frederick

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
358
Reaction score
276
Location
Park City,UT
Doing fairly well on the wiring harness.HOWEVER, can not identify this Bosch relay? Best I can tell, # 0 332 003 014. Tentatively identified as “fuel pump relay.”
Not on wiring diagram for BMW e3 71/73. It did have a fuel pump, but unrelated to this . It was found connected to top of steering column in engine compartment.
Big red and green wires and a black.
Found this one on eBay. Car came with zeniths but had webers when I got it. Very basic car, no electric peripherals.
Wondering if it is functional, what it does and why it is there.?
Per usual, any and all assistance is appreciated.
 

Attachments

  • 71FD711B-DDBC-4126-ABA8-A4532FFF3D95.jpeg
    71FD711B-DDBC-4126-ABA8-A4532FFF3D95.jpeg
    18.6 KB · Views: 74
Top