1988 M30B35 Intake Mainfold (NEW pics included)

How much clearance are you allowing for engine movement?

This is a great idea that I would borrow for the motronic on my project, but can anyone
comment on how much the engine shifts during moderate to aggressive accel/decel?
Maybe its worth modding/lowering the motor and tranny mounts too.
 
How much clearance are you allowing for engine movement?

This is a great idea that I would borrow for the motronic on my project, but can anyone
comment on how much the engine shifts during moderate to aggressive accel/decel?
Maybe its worth modding/lowering the motor and tranny mounts too.
 
Why go through all the trouble of modifying the intake manifold,
If you replace the brake booster with one from a 2002 Tii., it will
fit perfectly. I did that with S38 implant in one of my coupe and
a 92 euro 635i engine implant in my other coupe.
 
Why go through all the trouble of modifying the intake manifold,
If you replace the brake booster with one from a 2002 Tii., it will
fit perfectly. I did that with S38 implant in one of my coupe and
a 92 euro 635i engine implant in my other coupe.
 
2800csm5 said:
Why go through all the trouble of modifying the intake manifold,
If you replace the brake booster with one from a 2002 Tii., it will
fit perfectly. I did that with S38 implant in one of my coupe and
a 92 euro 635i engine implant in my other coupe.
Click to expand...

Easy, those boosters are bloody expensive! Also, there is some debate that the force multiplier is reduced significantly.

As far as the engine motion, that depends heavily on your motor mount health and the trans mount health/setup. Some stiffer mounts would probably help. With the stock mounts, I've seen my engine shift by perhaps 1/4"-1/2" when I've been monkeying with my throttle by hand.
 
x_atlas0 said:
2800csm5 said:
I've seen my engine shift by perhaps 1/4"-1/2" when I've been monkeying with my throttle by hand.
Click to expand...

I suspect the engine moves > 1/2" when going over hard bumps, downshifting to decelerate, etc. So, I suspect that the nicely powder coated booster is going to have a few scratches.

Which isn't a put-down of Kingman and his mechanic's engineering work - looks like a creative solution to a problem that others have grappled with.
Click to expand...
 
Could put some hard, high-temp rubber between the manifold and the booster. Heck, an old tire segment would probably work well.
 
motor mounts

Ireland Eng. has motor mounts made out of polyurethane that I used on my M5 swap. They should eliminate a lot of the movement.
 
Motor mounts

Ireland motor mounts.
That's exactly what I did.
regards,
Kingman
I'll post some more pics by Thursday
 
Engine Complete

Pictures of the completed engine.

E9_Engine_C1.jpg


E9_Engine_C2.jpg


E9_Engine_C3.jpg
 
Engine source

This engine came from a 735 automatic.
-Kingman
 
Use the Brake Booster from a 2002 T11 and the manifold will fit perfectly
without any modification.

Cut 3 inches off the middle of the mounting bracket for the booster and
shorten the push rod by the same amount. Bind there done that at least
three times.
 
More engine pics (I figured out the flash)

Here are slightly better pictures of the engine bay. I figured out how to get the flash on my camera to work. This is why my cellphone has a dial and is connected to the wall.
-Kingman

E9_Engine_D1.jpg


E9_Engine_D2.jpg
 
Thats a nicely detailed job, well done.
I notice that you've up graded to an E28 radiator also. I did that at the beginning year but only after I'd just bought new CS radiator hoses and found they wouldn't fit with the new rad. I wasn't impressed with myself I can tell you.
 
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