2240310 1972 BMW 3.0cs

The diverter valve is installed and the cooling system is filled, so far with no leaks. This set up really makes me want to transition to triple webers...

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The coupe has been running rough lately so I decided to adjust the valves (two were slightly loose), check the timing (just a hair off), and check the carburetors for vacuum leaks. The front carb had developed a significant leak and was causing the lean misfire.

I hooked up my O2 sensor and then pulled the front carb off. The bottom was no longer flat, so I trued that up and did the same to the phenolic spacer and put it all back together. Still leaking, so off it came again and I called Pierce Manifolds for teflon throttle shaft seals for both carbs. I just installed the seals and fired it up for the first time and the leak is fixed, idles better and O2 readings are back where I would expect them to be.

Tomorrow will synchronize the carbs...
 
Just arrived home from the BMW Classic Car Club 20th anniversary event. I drove 1,880 miles with just a few issues to deal with. I will need to replace the trunk weather seal and adjust the passenger side window to better contact the weather striping and need a couple of carburetor linkage springs (# 15 in the picture below).

Overall, the coupe ran very well. The 5-speed is nice to have on extended highway driving and I checked the mileage at several points along the route and was getting ~20 miles per gallon at 75 miles per hour.


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The speaker grill no longer stays in place. I suppose the mounting holes in the wood dashboard have become slightly enlarged over time. Is the fix to twist the round mounting tabs on the grill a bit to expand them or is there another solution?
 
The car is in off-site storage now so I am unable to grab pictures.

From memory, the speaker cover has hollow split metal studs with some barbs on one side. The dash has holes drilled to accept the mounting studs, with no metal or plastic inserts, so the wood is worn very slightly with each insertion and removal.
 
Thanks for posting. It looks as if there is only friction between the wood hole and the metal pin (both shown in the picture. I suppose I need to use a tapered drift punch to gently open the metal pin to better engage the drilled opening.
 
Bending the pins "open" is a tad risky, as it may break them, but it also expands the part (mostlyl that it actually isn't in the wood, as the end is pushed trough.


Other option: use some rubber glue on the pins; and let it dry up completely before install. The added friction will be enough to hold it.

Beauty is that is a fully reversible solution.

Wrap the pins with tape?
 
Good thought, I will build up some material instead. The coupe is stored off-site in a nice humidity controlled building so I can free up some garage space for some other projects.

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