3D Printed plastic gear for window regulator transmissio

Tony.dreamer said:
Wow Steve!
Tell me what did you do aside from cleaning the tracks?
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It may sound odd but I fell in love with the sardine motors. From the age of 7 I was intrigued with DC Motors and by about 11 years or 12 perhaps I used to pull them apart especially the bad ones people throw away. Most were not bad when I open them up they were just neglected or victim of a mishap. The sardine Bosch motors are made like a tank for what they are suppose to do. They should last forever. I liked going through them and cleaning and polishing the inside . The tracks are another thing. These regulators are made to be permanent not like today's cars that have to be replaced each time they go bad...
 
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Exactly what Jay mentioned:

make sure your window tracks are well-aligned, and well lubricated. Disconnect the window from the regulator and move it up and down by hand, feeling for points where it binds. Eliminating binding and friction will go a long way toward producing faster motion.

I loosened the bottom section of both tracks as well as the glass bracket that slides into the rear track. After cleaning as best I could and regreasing, I lifted and released the window and moved the tracks until they provided no resistance. The tracks can go in 4 directions at the bottom via the 10mm bolts. Then tightened it up. There was one spot along the track that put up a little more resistance so at this spot I loosened the glass bracket and slid the window slightly up and down around this spot to allow the bracket to align then tightened it up and bingo - the result you see. The window should lift up without binding and not want to stay at the top, it should come down immediately. It may take some experimenting/curse words/time before it comes together but it's doable.

I also have my windows relayed so they get full 12v+ instead of going through all that old wiring. You're right, the sardine cans are very well made and I like them also.


Tony.dreamer said:
Wow Steve!
Tell me what did you do aside from cleaning the tracks?
Click to expand...
 
Stevehose said:
Exactly what Jay mentioned:

make sure your window tracks are well-aligned, and well lubricated. Disconnect the window from the regulator and move it up and down by hand, feeling for points where it binds. Eliminating binding and friction will go a long way toward producing faster motion.

I loosened the bottom section of both tracks as well as the glass bracket that slides into the rear track. After cleaning as best I could and regreasing, I lifted and released the window and moved the tracks until they provided no resistance. The tracks can go in 4 directions at the bottom via the 10mm bolts. Then tightened it up. There was one spot along the track that put up a little more resistance so at this spot I loosened the glass bracket and slid the window slightly up and down around this spot to allow the bracket to align then tightened it up and bingo - the result you see. The window should lift up without binding and not want to stay at the top, it should come down immediately. It may take some experimenting/curse words/time before it comes together but it's doable.

I also have my windows relayed so they get full 12v+ instead of going through all that old wiring. You're right, the sardine cans are very well made and I like them also.
Click to expand...
Thanks Steve!
I will follow your advice once I get a chance to install them in the car . It is getting very close to be painted ... the relay idea is really good...
cheers
Tony P.
 
I believe the tracks are also adjustable at the top but the wood piece has to come off but fortunately I didn't have to go there.
 
Stevehose said:
I believe the tracks are also adjustable at the top but the wood piece has to come off but fortunately I didn't have to go there.
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Hello Steve,
How many relays did you use for all four windows? What year is your car ? I am trying to put relays in my 73 3.0CSA and ofcourse it has smaller black plastic casing motor types which uses. the reverse polarity for changing direction (up or down). That is why the switches are different internally and wiring is a bet different too.
Cheers!
 
I used 2 relays per window (1 each for up and down) since I have sardine can motors. Mine is a 72 without the little red circuit breakers.

Tony.dreamer said:
Hello Steve,
How many relays did you use for all four windows? What year is your car ? I am trying to put relays in my 73 3.0CSA and ofcourse it has smaller black plastic casing motor types which uses. the reverse polarity for changing direction (up or down). That is why the switches are different internally and wiring is a bet different too.
Cheers!
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Steve,
What guage wire did you use for the power to the windows ? Where did you place the relays? Did you use the generic relays ? Any particular brand you like?
 
autowerks said:
Great info Tony, my driver side window needs to be fixed
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Hello joe, how are you?
I am going to the shop in few minutes to work on it again. I am planning to add relays to my windows. It appears to me that not enough power going through switches makes it difficult for the Motors to get enough amp. It also can amuse the contact on the switches to wear off immaturely !
By the way , do you have the metal vertical piece for the front edge of right side rear windows that front windows rides on the rubber ? If so I got some rubbers ordered from W&N and found out how to place them on and if you do it right it’s relatively easy.
 
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Thanks Steve.
Let me go over this a bit. I will reach out to you with some questions.
Did you leave the original wires that goes through the tube into the door intact? So after you are done they are just there not doing anything ..?
 
Yes the original wires are still used except the positive is now lower amperage that triggers the relay. I ran a separate power wire.

Tony.dreamer said:
Thanks Steve.
Let me go over this a bit. I will reach out to you with some questions.
Did you leave the original wires that goes through the tube into the door intact? So after you are done they are just there not doing anything ..?
Click to expand...
 
TravL350 said:
Awesome job, Tony! Glad it seems the parts will work out for you. Just an alternative way of getting the plastic off the metal core, I used a sharp knife and cut through the old plastic in several places then it peeled off fairly easily.
Also - a reminder to others, be sure to clean and lubricate everything on the regulator itself or the new plastic gears will suffer the same fate as the original parts.

If anyone else needs them, I can have the plastic ones printed and sent to you directly from Xometry for around $15 each. Tony got 2 plastic ones shipped to him for $32 or something like that. The stainless / brass I think were going to be around $55 each. I still haven't had a chance to test the metal ones. The price goes down slightly for every additional part ordered. This is purely the cost, and I'm not interested in trying to make a profit on them. Glad to send some your way if needed, just PM me your address and how many you need.

-Travis
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Stevehose said:
Tony, mine are not e28 motors, they are the original sardine cans, so there is still hope for us :cool:
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Steve , I forgot to ask you! It seems as if you left the relays for the back windows inside behind the panel! What is your thought about putting them under the rear seat on each side? So if they ever have to be replaced the panel doesn’t need to come off?
 
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A most excellent idea!

Tony.dreamer said:
Steve , I forgot to ask you! It seems as if you left the relays for the back windows inside behind the panel! What is your thought about putting them under the rear seat on each side? So if they ever have to be replaced the panel doesn’t need to come off?
Click to expand...
 
TravL350 said:
Awesome job, Tony! Glad it seems the parts will work out for you. Just an alternative way of getting the plastic off the metal core, I used a sharp knife and cut through the old plastic in several places then it peeled off fairly easily.
Also - a reminder to others, be sure to clean and lubricate everything on the regulator itself or the new plastic gears will suffer the same fate as the original parts.

If anyone else needs them, I can have the plastic ones printed and sent to you directly from Xometry for around $15 each. Tony got 2 plastic ones shipped to him for $32 or something like that. The stainless / brass I think were going to be around $55 each. I still haven't had a chance to test the metal ones. The price goes down slightly for every additional part ordered. This is purely the cost, and I'm not interested in trying to make a profit on them. Glad to send some your way if needed, just PM me your address and how many you need.

-Travis
Click to expand...
Hi Travis,
Are you still making the white window gears? Im in need of 4.
Cheers
Brett
 
Wondering if the aluminum E36 window gears would work...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E36-In...h=item41f5e29c51:g:7CAAAOSweWBay1px:rk:1:pf:0

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