'73 3.0CS frame off resto update

Another update on the Jasco product
It more commonly known as dimethylchlorate.
It is extremely caustic and it poses an inhalant risk.
I'm stopping for now until I can get a charcoal respirator.
Despite my care it has made skin contact in two spots and it burns. A quick generous spray with a water bottle I have on hand for this very reason immediately provides relief and averts injury.
The force required to scrape off the undercoating is inconsistent because the thickness is inconsistent.
Areas where the coat was thinner respond well and minimal force is required but areas like corners or compound curves which have thicker coat need second and third applications of the chemical and much more mechanical force.
The risk of further burns and the inconsistent reduction in scraping force needed is making me reconsider this approach.
I will do more research and circle back.
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HB Chris said:
Easy-Off oven cleaner works great, but if left on too long it will soften the primer underneath.
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I will try a can of that tomorrow!
I don't mind the primer going soft as I'm having the car sent to a dustless blasting place locally.
Failing this chemical means of removal I may elect to have the car dipped at a place in Santa Ana.
I think it's called Strip Clean. Has any one here ever used their services?

Strip Clean
5105 W 1st St, Santa Ana, CA 92703
(714) 775-7797

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teahead said:
Propane torch and a scraper. Then wipe with lacquer thinner
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I will give that a try but I tried a heat gun and scraper already which did work well enough I suppose.
My primary fear with the torch is warping a panel.

Or do you mean that I heat the scraper then use it like a hot knife?


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aearch said:
ive used it also only the airplane stuff from amazon
i used heavy rubber gloves to protect and just slopped it on and let it sit then
pressure washed it off -that gets 90% then used a long handle brush with hose and second coat for the leftover
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-A...09659&sr=8-4&keywords=airplane+paint+stripper
this is the absolute best stuff better than all the rest
i have this
https://www.amazon.com/Sun-Joe-SPX2500-Pressure-Electric/dp/B01JRU00W6
Click to expand...

I'll order some up this week and give it a try.


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HB Chris said:
Easy-Off oven cleaner works great, but if left on too long it will soften the primer underneath.
Click to expand...

Sooooooo itried the easy off oven cleaner left on for about 10 min but it had very little effect at softening things up but it did clean the undercoat up lol.
How long did you let it set before trying to scrape off the undercoat?
At issue with this whole chemical approach seems to be the porosity of the undercoat.
It's very chemically inert.
I will also try roughening up the surface with a cup brush then trying the Jasco on the roughened undercoat. My theory is that the reduced surface area that the undercoat provides combined with it's reactivity is making this harder than it could be... Fingers crossed...


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HB Chris said:
I probably left it on 15 minutes, scraped and then did a second application, it’s pretty toxic too.
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I'll give it another whirl tomorrow night with the other approaches I mentioned above like roughening before treating with the chemicals.


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Update on the abrading before applying method I tried with the aerosol form and it made only a slight improvement in effort required.
I also tried the torch method which worked well but I'm still afraid of over heating the panels.
A heat gun and scraper certainly work well also.
Since this stuff is stuck on so well; I'm beginning to question the wisdom in removing it as extensively as I am trying to.
I will give some spray on liner folks a call tomorrow to see if I can just spray over what's there after scuffing it.
The difficulty of this effort is compounded by the fact that the shell is not on a rotisserie.
I'm looking for a good used one locally but deals are few and far in between on Craigslist.
The Rust-Oleum product is the same chemical as the Jasco product so I'll hold off on buying it for now.
To sum up:
1. Chemical means of removal are ineffective regardless of surface prep (probably a good thing when it was first sprayed on)
2. Heat combined with mechanical means seem to work well but I should limit removal to damaged areas of the undercoat
A. The rear floor pans
B. The passenger side front wheel-well
C. The spare tire well and trunk floor under the parcel shelf
I will work with my sand blaster to avoid removing the remainder of the undercoating as it is in decent shape

Note: a fine wire cup brush on my angle grinder does a good job of removing the undercoat with very light pressure and leaves a good surface to prime but heat buildup in the affected panel remains a concern.


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e30strube said:
Have you tried mechanical removal... you could use something like this... https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=Cj0KCQjwof3cBRD9ARIsAP8x70Pwu55vp0IwhdTa5WrTgHTEizAQV-5XGJJQ1RChifTqrBE9YdK9zKkaAog_EALw_wcB. Probably no less messy, but could be better as far as inhalation or skin burns. I've had good luck with the aircraft paint stripper, but it is really potent stuff.
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This link doesn't seem to be working but I'll paruse The Eastwood site and see what I can find.


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dhanna said:
You tore a tendon scraping off undercoat?! Yikes!


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I was wearing gloves and had a scraper in my hands when I got down on the garage floor using my knuckles to lower myself. I heard a pop but thought perhaps I had just popped a knuckle and started scraping away. When I got back up and removed the glove I had a drooping finger and immediately panicked. It’s known as mallet finger, I splinted it for 90 days when 30 days should be adequate but it didn’t reattach. I now have a conversation piece!
 
dhanna said:
This link doesn't seem to be working but I'll paruse The Eastwood site and see what I can find.


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Click to expand...

The Contour SCT is what you're looking for. They have different drums that can be used and per the literature, heats up the panels less than a similar wire wheel, sander, etc. Never used it, but there are several videos on youtube of it being used.
 
I’m with teahead (rob). Propane torch and scraper. Only panels you need to worry about warping are inner side of front fenders. All other panels should not warp...and they are on the bottom of the car mostly, so....

I did the entire undercarriage of the bav and it turned out just fine. Do wear a respirator because the cooking/burning undercoat is probably not intended to be inhaled.

Scrape it off and sweep it up. Keep some water or fire extinguisher handy and make sure there is nothing flammable on the other side where you are applying heat.
 
afeustel said:
I’m with teahead (rob). I did the entire undercarriage of the bav and it turned out just fine. Do wear a respirator because the cooking/burning undercoat is probably not intended to be inhaled. Scrape it off and sweep it up. Keep some water or fire extinguisher handy and make sure there is nothing flammable on the other side where you are applying heat.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but it's not fair having a zero gravity rotisserie! :D
 
Well I've got a bead on a rotisserie for about $1000 about 50 miles away from my apartment. I thinking I will put both doors back on and brace everything solidly. And then the scraping with a torch will be safer stand by for updates


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