'73 Chamonix Bavaria

[TedS]

I figured I'd move over here from my introduction thread.
As stated there, I picked up a 73' automatic with magically disappearing coolant along with mysteriously rising oil level. That and, well, automatic.
So far I've found a complete engine out of a coupe (auto as well, dang it) and a Getrag 262 out of an e12. The head on the engine is dated '84.

I'll keep the new engine connected to its head and just replace the whole thing- my current engine is not numbers matching.

So far I guess I've found the easy parts. Still to find: flywheel, shift surround, and clutch & brake pedals.

Things were looking too "together"-

 

[dang]

I see you have a custom hood prop just like mine.

 

[TedS]

I see you have a custom hood prop just like mine.

I'll have to strip it and paint it Chamonix.


Things are coming along-

Replacement engine attached to subframe and ancillaries attached to it. Since I was replacing the water pump I went with the type that accepts the screw on rad. fan and found fan and clutch on Ebay. Of course the pulley doesn't line up with the mounting holes so I drilled two new ones. Luckily, the two diagonal holes line up already so it starts out centered. Clutch master installed on firewall; power steering fluid filter changed; waiting on clutch, pressure plate and that little cover before I can attach the gearbox to the engine. Oh, and bolts. I found most at the hardware store (grade 10. something) and ordered others. It's funny- the trans crossmember is available for $13 but that M10x95 bolt has been discontinued. Which qiubo?? After much reading the M5 one. Oh, and the replacement mech. fuel pump fouled the carb linkage. Hopefully the old one lasts until I can figure it out.
If it weren't for all the shared knowledge on this site I'd have given up so thanks to all.

 

[TedS]

Also, I noticed the Weber carb to manifold spacers and gaskets don't exactly match the shape of the carb throat and manifold intake opening. Has anyone tried shaping these so they match? I ran some sanding stones through and got a good match. I wouldn't've done this if I wasn't always looking at it on my way to the washing machine but still.

 

[TedS]

Engine and trans back in the car.
Looking back, Mesa Performance was a big help getting this started. Jim sent me all the clutch hydraulics- master, slave, hoses to reservoir along with hard and flex lines from master to slave and everything fit.

The last thing to do is measure for the driveshaft final length and drop it off at the drive shaft shop.

But I wanted to get the engine running first before shelling out the money for the drive shaft and here I'm having my first real issue with this whole thing. The engine starts but dies immediately. Giving it gas does nothing. It starts, begins to idle smoothly then dies within two seconds- the dash lights remain on.
I temporarily installed the new fuel pump I'd gotten and bypassed the fuel filter but no change. Took off the gas cap, still dies. The fuel pump doesn't fit with these Weber carbs, by the way. When tightened down it rests on the carb linkage.

The first time I tried to start the engine I got nothing. This turned out to be the black wire originally going to the auto trans starter relay not fully seated in the wiring block near the brake booster. Then it started and ran rough before dying. This was improved by turning the distributor counter clockwise a little. Then I really had high hopes as it seemed to start right up...

The work week has started so now it just spins in my head.

Also, replacement engine might not be all it's cracked up to be. These are cold compression numbers 1-5 (I stopped at 5 because why bother with 6?):
140
90
105
110
115


Hey, there's this-

 

[TedS]

Unplugged the blk/brn wire to starter and now it starts and stays running.
I thought the new 441x would be wired the same as my old one.

And now I found this from HB Chris:
The only caution I have is that the SR-71x, SR-440x and SR-441x all fit but the terminals have one minor difference. If you still run the ballast resistor with your coil your current starter has a terminal that sends "switched" power to the coil. With a permanent magnet starter this isn't needed but if you hook it up to a terminal that is hot your ballast will glow cherry red! I think my 441 did this, just don't connect that bypass wire.

Here's the thread for anyone else who has this problem-

Starter stories

OK, so its my turn to replace my original starter. I have a Weber carbed '72 CS. Have read many tales of woe that popped up with a "search" here, and have accepted that this job ranks high on the : "never want to do again" list. I take solace in have lived through a heater core replacement in...

e9coupe.com

Many thanks to this forum.

 

[TedS]

The Bavaria is back on its wheels!
I've had to do a lot of fine tuning along with replacing a bad fan clutch but it runs and drives. That is, as good as it can with a worn engine (see above compression numbers).
To recap, I bought the car with a known head issue- combustion gasses present in the coolant and blowing white smoke. I bought a replacement engine out of a running car with an '84 stamped head and put that in. This engine has low compression. Definitely a lesson in false economy.

The question now is whether to bite the bullet and pay for a rebuild.

Also, managed to score some new front bumper brackets-

Photo of the driveshaft before it went in the car-

 

[TedS]

So as I've gotten the engine to run better it's motivated me to take care of smaller things which motivate me to get the engine running even better.

I'm still not sure what the deal is with the top end. Compression on #2 cylinder is around 90# and I get this repeatedly with my cheap gauge. But leak down shows only 10% leakage. Turning the crank a little bit causes major leakage, though. No other symptoms but this is ongoing so I might discover something that I've missed.

The small motivators-
Fixed the hazard switch by bending the little metal arm which in turn fixed the turn signals. All lights now work. Temp gauge is more reliable after fiddling with the ground on the back. Soldered a wire back onto the fuel sender so that gauge is back working.
And the biggest-fixed the hood prop. Wow, what a difference this makes. I guess I lucked out that the torsion springs weren't broken.
Also, vacuumed out the interior. That's a cheap one.

One big obstacle right now is the windshield seal- the thing is so old and cracked it's not safe. I found a used seal but after some research it looks like a later one. Or a later 3.3 E3. Looking at pictures, it seems like most 2.8-3.0 E3's use the thinner seal no matter what year.
My seal-

The hood spring holders-

 

[HB Chris]

All e3 through 1973 use the early seal with the thinner lower alu trim, 74 uses the later seal with larger trim.

 

[dang]

So many of the same issues I'm going through. One of my front bumper brackets is bent but it's bent up not sideways. I'll have to heat it up and try to bend it back. I found one of my hood prop rod holders also worn out, which explains why the prop feels kinda good but won't hold the hood up. I lucked out by having a 2002 rod cap in storage that looks to be the same form factor.

 

[TedS]

One of my front bumper brackets is bent but it's bent up not sideways. I'll have to heat it up and try to bend it back.

I've got one good one if you want it.

 

[TedS]

All e3 through 1973 use the early seal with the thinner lower alu trim, 74 uses the later seal with larger trim.

When I was looking for pictures all of the '74's seemed to have the thinner trim-

No Reserve: 1974 BMW Bavaria

Bid for the chance to own a No Reserve: 1974 BMW Bavaria at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #18,285.

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1974 BMW Bavaria

Bid for the chance to own a 1974 BMW Bavaria at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #5,667.

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[HB Chris]

Parts Book says changeover was at introduction of US 74 model and Euro Modell 73 which is the same chassis just without big bumpers.

 

[Dick Steinkamp]

When I was looking for pictures all of the '74's seemed to have the thinner trim-

No Reserve: 1974 BMW Bavaria

Bid for the chance to own a No Reserve: 1974 BMW Bavaria at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #18,285.

bringatrailer.com

1974 BMW Bavaria

Bid for the chance to own a 1974 BMW Bavaria at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #5,667.

bringatrailer.com

Both of those cars are very early in the 9/73-7/74 range (https://bmw-e3-club.de/fahrgestellnummern/). Although all the cars in that range exported to the US would need to meet US DOT and EPA requirements, my GUESS is that BMW would have no problem using up a few left over windshield gaskets and trim before starting to install the later versions.

 

[TedS]

Well, whatever- I'm not trying to argue BMW literature here.

My point was that I was having a hard time finding pictures of E3's with the wide lower trim because no '74's I found had it. I had to look for '76 E3's before seeing it. I should've said 3.0si, not 3.3.

Oh, and here's a later VIN '74-

1974 BMW Bavaria

Bid for the chance to own a 1974 BMW Bavaria at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #22,175.

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[TedS]

Thanks to @Mike Goble mentioning the e28 in tank pump option so often in other threads I was able to find this-

It's a twist on (bayonet?) mount just like the stock one.

Slow progress on swapping the engine.

In the mean time got some H&R springs (thanks to @billpatterson for the source) from Tunershop-

 

[HB Chris]

Does the e28 pump reach the bottom of the tank? On an e9 it must be lengthened.

 

[TedS]

It’s almost too long. I read a lot about e30’s needing to be lengthened- maybe that was 2002, though.

 

[TedS]

Finally back on the wheels with the b35, new springs and Bilsteins. I have to say- that 3.5 really moves. I'm waiting on jets to fine tune it but as soon as it gets past the hesitation it really flies.

This is from a '92 535i so I needed engine mount adaptor plates for both sides.
Other things: The plug used at the oil filter housing to adapt to the e28 535i type is a 10 x 1.0mm pipe thread- https://www.belmetric.com/m10x10-pl...-p-6982.html?zenid=30375oc13ev972noi263v3ss13 ;
I think the best oil pan/pump pick up combination is from an e28. The Bavaria pan fits but the b35 #1 con rod hits the pick up mounting bolt head as it swings down; and I used a die grinder to widen the intake manifold to match the head.

Also, replaced the windshield and took care of the surface rust under the dried up seal. See before and after below.

 

[HB Chris]

That swap was quick!