BMW E9 Rims size advice...

Resurrecting an old string as I am considering the purchase of a set of BBS SIZE 7x14 ET 18 5x120.

Any concerns that I should consider with the ET on a 14” wheel? Thanks in advance.
 
Why are owners of Ferrari 365 GTB Daytonas perfectly content to keep the original wheel size ? Why are owners of Porsche 2.7 Carreras perfectly content to keep the original wheel size? Why do 1967 Pontiac GTOs look perfect with period size Torque Thrusts? To each their own but I can't understand this propensity to hack these e9s.

Not to be overly sarcastic, but it's called Hot Rodding. It's been around since the late 40's if I remember right. But I agree with your position and I don't think you will see this guy or myself hod-rodding a CSL. I think we have to admit that without hot rodding, restoration parts would be even more costly. The more people that are working on old cars with whatever personality they choose increases the buying power and creates just enough demand for manufacturers to keep supplying them.
 
Why are owners of Ferrari 365 GTB Daytonas perfectly content to keep the original wheel size ? Why are owners of Porsche 2.7 Carreras perfectly content to keep the original wheel size? Why do 1967 Pontiac GTOs look perfect with period size Torque Thrusts? To each their own but I can't understand this propensity to hack these e9s.

so sooo...

many things, yes
 
The basic problem is that changing wheels and tires is a real 3D puzzle. The variables are...

Wheel width
Wheel diameter
Wheel offset/backspacing
Tire width
Tire aspect ratio
Ride height
Alignment specs (especially camber)
Suspension set up (shocks, anti sway bar size, spring rates)
Suspension travel
Intended use of the vehicle
Desired "look"

There are devices that will help you get close with fitment...



...but ONLY close. It's tough to simulate a tire/wheel combo in actual use.

In ALL cases (even sticking with the stock wheel/tire combination) compromises will have to be made. Only you can determine which compromises are acceptable and which aren't.
 
My BBS Mahles for my e12 needed longer wheel bolts and it doesn’t have studs like an e9 which will be harder to replace.
Thanks...interesting. Is there an “easier” approach? Is it a case of selecting the wheel, then measuring bolt or stud length & buying for your specific weel?
 
Ask for thickness of the hub area. Mine also needed a ball mount bolt, not the typical V shaped seat, which is rounded. And my Mahles also say BMW so why would they be different?
 
Thanks...interesting. Is there an “easier” approach? Is it a case of selecting the wheel, then measuring bolt or stud length & buying for your specific weel?

It isn’t something that you usually need to concern yourself with. Mahle’s just have a super thick mounting boss. The Mahles that I had couldn’t be mounted safely without longer studs. You can buy lug nuts with threads that extend past the mounting surface.

I had a set. They work well but aren’t a substitute for longer studs.

Example:
75147FC6-E943-49F5-A452-8EF135AB377A.jpeg
 
It isn’t something that you usually need to concern yourself with. Mahle’s just have a super thick mounting boss. The Mahles that I had couldn’t be mounted safely without longer studs. You can buy lug nuts with threads that extend past the mounting surface.

I had a set. They work well but aren’t a substitute for longer studs.

Example:
View attachment 100117
Thanks Markos, do you remember where you bought the long lugs? I think I may have found them...or something similar from Dorman #711-312
 
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Thanks Markos, do you remember where you bought the long lugs? I think I may have found them...or something similar from Dorman #711-312

I got mine on ebay. These are the ones I purchased:

 
My car came to me with the stock 14" FPS wheels with 205/60X14" tires. The PO lowered the suspension and my floor jack would not even fit under the 1 1/8" front anti-sway bar.
I bought 4- 16X7" ET11 BBS basketweave wheels made in 1983 on B.A.T. The lug studs needed to be changed on all 4 hubs to fit the wheels. Markos correctly told me not to use those extra deep lug nuts. The 205/55-16" Michelin tires were mounted and I'm on the road again. I had the wheels turned to the left as I backed up and went into a depression. I heard a funny noise and saw the left front inner fender lip was pulled out and the paint was cracked. I was lucky my new tire was not cut. The car is no longer blue and the front fender lips are now completely rolled up and smooth to the touch. This can also happen with 15" wheels and oversized tires. Roll your fenders if you are going to lower the suspension.
 

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Regarding stud/bolt length needed. Back in the days when I was driving on road race tracks with my Porsche, the rule of thumb was to have at least 9 full turns of the lug nut or lug bolt when fully tight to have safe wheel/axle connection. I'd abide by that for highway driving as well.

Gary
 
Hello Drew, Do you mind sharing the stud size that you used for your wheels? I have the same ones and I've been wondering how long they need to be, and perhaps where you got them. Thanks
Victor
 
Hello Drew, Do you mind sharing the stud size that you used for your wheels? I have the same ones and I've been wondering how long they need to be, and perhaps where you got them. Thanks
Victor
Victor--The studs that work with these BBS wheels are ARP 100-7715 I bought them at SummitRacing.com. Details sent to you in a PM.
 
Planning 225/50-16 all the way around with OEM BBS copies 16x8 et23 part# 36111182277, going to need small spacer up front likely, not so sure the front tires in that size will fit without modifying the front fenders some, but will see, might end up with a 215/55-16 tire size up front from the looks of it, just not enough space between the strut, and the straight edge of those front fenders. In which case, I'll run 215/55-16 all around.
 
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i think spacers on an 8" et23 wheel in the front is NOT going to work. you had better check to see because i think you are going to push the tire into the fender lip. don't think it matters if you use 215/55 or 225/50. face it, a 205/55 on a 7" wheel will catch the fender lip in most cases. the only ways around it is to put in camber plates, and in many cases that won't solve it without rolling the fenders. take a look at the data in the FAQ section
 
i think spacers on an 8" et23 wheel in the front is NOT going to work. you had better check to see because i think you are going to push the tire into the fender lip. don't think it matters if you use 215/55 or 225/50. face it, a 205/55 on a 7" wheel will catch the fender lip in most cases. the only ways around it is to put in camber plates, and in many cases that won't solve it without rolling the fenders. take a look at the data in the FAQ section

Keep in mind that an 8” ET23 wheel is only 0.7mm closer to the fender than 7” ET11 wheel. Rolling the fenders gives you about .5” or 12mm of clearance. So a 3-6mm spacer with an 8” ET23 will result in 6-9mm of clearance when the fender is rolled. Camber plates would definitely help, but I haven’t figured out how much. Carl Nelson camber plates are like $80. Seems like a good investment for folks running 7” or 8” wheels with tires bigger than 185mm.

My actual concern would be clearing the strut on a 16” ET23 wheel with 225mm tires. I think you’ll need at least a 5-6mm spacer. 8x17 ET20 is a vetted size. Some members need a spacer, some don’t. It is so close that sidewall design plays a role in fitment. A 16” wheel will have even cless clearance due to the strut angle.
 
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