Brake Booster Replacement

OLD_DTM

OLD_DTM

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Hey Guys, Do you know of a Brake booster replacement? I need one not as bulky like the OEM. I'm installing a turbo S52 engine on my car and OEM it's hitting the intake manifold.

Thanks
 
2oo2tii
 

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Question for the masses

Would an early 320i booster work? Much thinner? They made lots of these cars, I even noticed that the sun visor clips seem identical.
 
aearch said:
2oo2tii
Click to expand...

Alan, I hope that's not regular rubber hose (such as fuel hose) on the brake fluid reservoir as it's not resistant to brake fluid. Use EPDM (Cohline) black hose or the traditional blue hose.
 
That was just temporary to bleed it
im putting back the original stuff
of course it was faded so i blacked it out with
old canvas auto top finish black
looks new
i think so as they all work the same
i cant remember why the tii was recommended
but it is surely discussed here somewhere
Right. It is the tii booster that is in demand (for the reason that Stevehose cites above). The booster from a carbureted 2002 doesn't have the same cachet.
here it is
when i put the tii in it just bolted up and worked like the original didnt have to do anything
all the brakes work perfect
 
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Do you have the later, super-thick one? Or the early one?

Got a picture?

Besides the $$$ Tii one, maybe hydroboost?
 
Here comes Elmer the safety elephant....

With all that power.... if the back half of the car doesn't fall off first (I am so funny sometimes) you may need to actually stop as opposed to just slow down. So, for that reason I wouldn't
use an 02 or e21 booster. But than, I wouldn't go over 30 miles an hour with a rubber valve stem in my coupe alloy. :roll:
Safety first:lol:
I am planning an LS/T6 conversion for my e30 touring and my initial research leads me to....
In order of preference....:lol:
Bmw e32/e34
Porsche 944
Mkll vw golf
Mercedes 190
Bmw e30/325ix AWD
E21 may not stop you but at least it will slow you down:p
I have heard the e21 booster doesn't have what it takes to lock the brakes but I have no idea what the power braking of the tii booster is? Has it got more assist than the e21?

Just my 2 cents and hoping some other hoonigans will chime in.8)

And don't quote me or ask me how I know this.
Ok, no more posting from the martini lounge:twisted:
 
Alternatively, you could cut the booster/master bracket down. As I recall, there's just a long actuation rod, which can be replaced with generic threaded rod to a more suitable length once the bracket's been cut and re-welded. As another option, the E34 540 brake booster+master were mounted very far away from the firewall, up by the battery. This was accomplished by going the other way and having a very, very long rod going from the firewall all the way to the front of the car. Unfortunately it also means the battery has to be moved but it does provide for a nice, complete package with a lot of brake potential.
 
I don't know what this tiny little booster came from (it came with the car) but it fits well. Only about 8" in diameter. It has a name and number on it that may help find more. A previous mechanic had shortened the pedal bracket too much (the clutch master cyl wouldn't even fit) so I had to lengthen it back out again. I'm pretty sure it would fit fine at the stock length though. It would definitely clear a motronic manifold anyway. I cut off and welded the original pushrod to it. This is a mission critical part obviously, so use your own judgement concerning your welding skills. I would strongly advise against using any fully threaded rod, most are very weak steel. And the original rod is much thicker than the threads on all but the threaded part. (probably 12mm diameter, I didn't measure it. Threads are M10). If you don't have an original rod or it isn't long enough, a machine shop can make one easily.
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Have you considered the hydro-boost system off of an e28 or e24? Plenty of boost power off a small package that gets its pressure from the power steering pump and uses a nitrogen filled accumulator as the reserve if the engine/power steering pump were to fail.
 
I'm about to do a hydro boost conversion on my car.
Mine is a RHD and the brakes are horrible because of the remote boosters and I can't stand the brakes like this any longer.
The terrible peddle feel really detracts from the whole driving experience.
 
kasbatts said:
I'm about to do a hydro boost conversion on my car.
Mine is a RHD and the brakes are horrible because of the remote boosters and I can't stand the brakes like this any longer.
The terrible peddle feel really detracts from the whole driving experience.
Click to expand...

Hi Steve, those of us with RHD's would be interested in how you tackle this so can you please let us know how you get on ?. Cheers, Simon
 
Thanks for all the input guys. Here is where we at right now...



we cut the bracket already but I can welded back in and make it shorter.
 
kasbatts said:
I'm about to do a hydro boost conversion on my car.
Mine is a RHD and the brakes are horrible because of the remote boosters and I can't stand the brakes like this any longer.
The terrible peddle feel really detracts from the whole driving experience.
Click to expand...
Did you end up doing the hydroboost conversion, interested how that went?
 
JohnFBD said:
Did you end up doing the hydroboost conversion, interested how that went?
Click to expand...

Hi,

No, I bought all the parts but have decided to go a different route now.

I have decided to go even a bit more modern in what I'm doing and use a conventional booster (in this case from a Alfa 166 (booster is smallish diameter but double diaphragm)) mount this on the LH side of the engine bay on a custom mounting frame of the standard hole / mount in the fire wall, but where it gets a bit funky is
that I am going to operate this with a rotating tube that runs across the engine bay from strut tower to strut tower, this tube will have drop arms that drop down into the engine bay and get attached to the brake peddle and the booster via push rods, this was quite normal practice for manufactures back in the 70's and 80's when making their RH drive models, sometimes this mechanism was in the engine bay and sometimes up under the dash.

I am also upgrading the brakes at the wheels going to 330mm x 28mm thick disks and using the 4 pot Brembo calipers from the Alfa 166 as well.

Should stop well!



Steve
 
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