ok. so it seems that I have found the fuel pump and not the filter. I chased the line from the gas tank all the way to that part in the picture and that was the only thing I found. I pulled the sender out of the tank and ran high pressure water through it as best I can. It seemed just as dense after as it did before. How should this screen be cleaned? no arrow on the filter but it seemed that only one direction would collect debris.
Car stalling
- Thread starter inmantua1
- Start date
explain?
please could you explain how it works
i imagine that you see the spark inside the cilindrical part, right?
did you made it ? or you bought it ?
CAN you post more detailed pics?
regards
please could you explain how it works
i imagine that you see the spark inside the cilindrical part, right?
did you made it ? or you bought it ?
CAN you post more detailed pics?
regards
Pump
Your pump can't be cleaned.
from your picture #2- connect the filter and that hose back up to the pump. You'll need a short piece of hose and a clamp. Connect the other end up to the other side of the pump closest to the front carb. On the last part- to see if the pump is working- put a short piece of hose on that end of the pump into a canister and turn the engine over for a moment- you should get fuel.
DQ- It's a bought piece. The clip is for a ground. There are other devices to check for spark- one is like a pencil with zenon and a bulb that senses spark through the wire- no need to take anything loose. Lisle is one manufacturer but a some time ago Champion and others had them for purchase.
Your pump can't be cleaned.
from your picture #2- connect the filter and that hose back up to the pump. You'll need a short piece of hose and a clamp. Connect the other end up to the other side of the pump closest to the front carb. On the last part- to see if the pump is working- put a short piece of hose on that end of the pump into a canister and turn the engine over for a moment- you should get fuel.
DQ- It's a bought piece. The clip is for a ground. There are other devices to check for spark- one is like a pencil with zenon and a bulb that senses spark through the wire- no need to take anything loose. Lisle is one manufacturer but a some time ago Champion and others had them for purchase.
pamp
Well-Known Member
Spark sense
Yes, I use a pencil probe as well. Does not tell me if the high tension lead is NG at the plug connection however. But for the quick and dirty...probe is indispensable. These have come down in price as to give them away as a stocking stuffer. Same as the IR thermometer. OBD diagnostics for the iphone...$99. A cool time to be alive for those of us addicted to tools. Still in love with Snap-on and Fluke, yet those clever chinese...
Yes, I use a pencil probe as well. Does not tell me if the high tension lead is NG at the plug connection however. But for the quick and dirty...probe is indispensable. These have come down in price as to give them away as a stocking stuffer. Same as the IR thermometer. OBD diagnostics for the iphone...$99. A cool time to be alive for those of us addicted to tools. Still in love with Snap-on and Fluke, yet those clever chinese...
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1. Your fuel filter is backwards.
2. Reconnect the lines to the fuel pump.
3. Test per 61Porsche.
4. The fuel filter should be between the fuel pump and where the rubber fuel hose meets the metal pipe below the brake booster. If you have none then splice that clear one into the line behind the rear carb (check the arrow but yours in that pic is backwards).
5. The mesh filter can be taken off the sender unit - it is a disc with screen. Clean with gas or carb cleaner. Check the tank for rust.
6. Check spark per sfdon
7. Hook back up and let us know if it runs any better.
2. Reconnect the lines to the fuel pump.
3. Test per 61Porsche.
4. The fuel filter should be between the fuel pump and where the rubber fuel hose meets the metal pipe below the brake booster. If you have none then splice that clear one into the line behind the rear carb (check the arrow but yours in that pic is backwards).
5. The mesh filter can be taken off the sender unit - it is a disc with screen. Clean with gas or carb cleaner. Check the tank for rust.
6. Check spark per sfdon
7. Hook back up and let us know if it runs any better.
ok. I have added the filter (the correct direction now, thank you) The pump pumps about 150 ml for two attempts to start up. But the car will not start up at all. I disconnected the wire to plug 5 and added a spare. I laid it on the engine block and had someone start the car and no spark at all.
Ignition Check
Time to check the ignition.
Carefully remove the distributer cap, held on by two spring clips.
Observe the points. Both the rubbing block that rides on the cam ( worn away and not opening?- adjust) and the opening and closing of the points, and thier general appearance. ( Silverish/ grey - normal; black ish/ blue- burned, or pitted - both bad.- replace the points and the the condenser)
If you have a test light or elec. meter you can check to make sure you have voltage at the + side of the coil or resister ( white ceramic piece screwed on the fender near the coil.)
Coil- can go bad- first check above and report back. Do you have a meter?
Good luck.
Time to check the ignition.
Carefully remove the distributer cap, held on by two spring clips.
Observe the points. Both the rubbing block that rides on the cam ( worn away and not opening?- adjust) and the opening and closing of the points, and thier general appearance. ( Silverish/ grey - normal; black ish/ blue- burned, or pitted - both bad.- replace the points and the the condenser)
If you have a test light or elec. meter you can check to make sure you have voltage at the + side of the coil or resister ( white ceramic piece screwed on the fender near the coil.)
Coil- can go bad- first check above and report back. Do you have a meter?
Good luck.
It started before all this, yes? Check all coil, plug, ceramic resistor and distributor wires to see if you disconnnected something along the way.
JhwShark
Well-Known Member
As suggested check coil and the Ballast Resistor (BR)...the BR can have a cracked ceramic block which when warmed up can cause an Open thus stopping the circuit.
Use a volt/ohm meter to check resistance values for the coil and the BR and the ignition circuit continuity...sorry I do not have the spec's handy...maybe someone can provide?
Prior to NO RUN...It seems you indicate that under START operations it fires up and runs...and that it runs in the ON/run key position for a period of time...describe the period of time better...i.e: after START key is in RUN/ON and the car runs for 2 minutes or car runs until engine is warm or car stops running when I release key from START.
I suspect a wire is not connected, an OPEN in the circuit, or other wire issue...
Jon
Use a volt/ohm meter to check resistance values for the coil and the BR and the ignition circuit continuity...sorry I do not have the spec's handy...maybe someone can provide?
Prior to NO RUN...It seems you indicate that under START operations it fires up and runs...and that it runs in the ON/run key position for a period of time...describe the period of time better...i.e: after START key is in RUN/ON and the car runs for 2 minutes or car runs until engine is warm or car stops running when I release key from START.
I suspect a wire is not connected, an OPEN in the circuit, or other wire issue...
Jon
stalling-ignition
From your descripton, it has symtoms of high electrical resistance.
The resistor- carefully inspect the coiled wire for breaks or weak areas. This coil heats up, lowers the 12 v to something less so the points last longer. The usual symtom is it it gets hot, so the paint might be discolored around it as well. You can temporarily by pass it by running the supply wire directly to the + side of the coil. Your points won't last long, but it will run til you get a resistor or change the coil to a resistor coil. ( Maybe a few hundred miles.)
The coil- same thing- sometimes when failing- it gets hot. This would normally go out, gradually supplying less and less current to fire the plugs. Sometimes they deform slightly and or leak oil.
A meter, checking continuity and resistance would tell the tale.
If the points are burned, it's likely the condensor.
All of these items aren't terribly expensive.
From your descripton, it has symtoms of high electrical resistance.
The resistor- carefully inspect the coiled wire for breaks or weak areas. This coil heats up, lowers the 12 v to something less so the points last longer. The usual symtom is it it gets hot, so the paint might be discolored around it as well. You can temporarily by pass it by running the supply wire directly to the + side of the coil. Your points won't last long, but it will run til you get a resistor or change the coil to a resistor coil. ( Maybe a few hundred miles.)
The coil- same thing- sometimes when failing- it gets hot. This would normally go out, gradually supplying less and less current to fire the plugs. Sometimes they deform slightly and or leak oil.
A meter, checking continuity and resistance would tell the tale.
If the points are burned, it's likely the condensor.
All of these items aren't terribly expensive.
No spark?
No spark can be easy to fix if you check a few things.....
Use that same spare spark plug and put it back on the valve cover but this time use the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor cap and check again for spark. If you DO have spark you have isolated the problem to the cap or rotor or nasty spark plug wires.
Notice you don't want to play the "Replace everything under the hood game"
Still no spark?
Measure for battery voltage [about 12 volts] at all three of the connectors on the coil.
Got voltage?
You know that you are missing the signal from the distributor..
No voltage?
If its the black trigger wire that is missing battery voltage- you have a short
If its the green wire missing voltage- check your battery connections and ignition switch
Let us know what you get at the coil.........
No spark can be easy to fix if you check a few things.....
Use that same spare spark plug and put it back on the valve cover but this time use the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor cap and check again for spark. If you DO have spark you have isolated the problem to the cap or rotor or nasty spark plug wires.
Notice you don't want to play the "Replace everything under the hood game"
Still no spark?
Measure for battery voltage [about 12 volts] at all three of the connectors on the coil.
Got voltage?
You know that you are missing the signal from the distributor..
No voltage?
If its the black trigger wire that is missing battery voltage- you have a short
If its the green wire missing voltage- check your battery connections and ignition switch
Let us know what you get at the coil.........
pamp
Well-Known Member
2 cents
I bet on the condenser / points. No coil saturation. Best test is to charge the condenser VDC 12 VDC, keeping all well insulated...then throw at your shop friend. If he gets a goot 12 K plus shock...condenser OK
I bet on the condenser / points. No coil saturation. Best test is to charge the condenser VDC 12 VDC, keeping all well insulated...then throw at your shop friend. If he gets a goot 12 K plus shock...condenser OK
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+4....
Running Now
Thanks everyone for the help thus far. I wont really know until I get far enough away from home but it seems that the car is running well now. I took the cap off the distributor and the points are warn un-even and black and the part that spins looks (to me) warn. I put the cap back on and it started right up and runs great. However I think i jarred something in place but did not fix anything. What are your thoughts? Do you think it is the distributor and/or cap?
Thanks everyone for the help thus far. I wont really know until I get far enough away from home but it seems that the car is running well now. I took the cap off the distributor and the points are warn un-even and black and the part that spins looks (to me) warn. I put the cap back on and it started right up and runs great. However I think i jarred something in place but did not fix anything. What are your thoughts? Do you think it is the distributor and/or cap?
As 61porsche said- all those parts are cheap.. replace them-all of them that are worn, old, black etc.
I agree. the cap is simple: Pull wires off and replace them on the new one in the same location as the old. The distributor is a little more concerning for me. Been through the process? It seems that there is a bolt that holds it on. I have not done one in many, many years. I feel like there was some sort of complicated alignment that needs to happen?
Don't touch it...
Find aa good mechanic to show you first.
Find aa good mechanic to show you first.
to renew distributor, you can follow this thread,... if you wish
http://e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7653
regards