Stalling- distributer
It's more likely that the points need replaced or at least adjusted. The information is available here as a guide: http://www.e9-driven.com/GeneralInfo.asp in either the repair manual or in the owner's manual also.
Check the tightness of of the screw which holds the condenser on the distributer.
On the cap, yes. Just replace one wire at a time. Before replacing, what your looking for is a small black line inside or out where electrical is crossing a path where it shouldn't. A small amount of black or carbon is normal on the brass contacts. Same for the rotor. Both can be carefully cleaned with sandpaper to help or just replace. The engine firing order is embossed on the valve cover if something gets confusing and the revolution is clockwise.
On the points- held by screws. First get the distributer lobe in position whereby the points are open. Bumping the engine over or if it's close the cam can actually turn by hand a small amount which is advance. The gap of the points is important to best running.
Until you get a bit familiar with the engine, pls. follow Don's advice and not remove the distributer. Check the wiring connections as well as the screws that ground the condensor and points first as it's likely as you said you just bumped it back in position. The other thing is to look at the wires/ cap running at night. See sparks or arcing? It's not supposed to. Another oldtimer trick- turn on the AM radio to no station- hear something regular? Not supposed to.
Advice to all- carry a spare set of points and a condenser in the car. There's no need to be stranded for a $6 dollar part once you know how to replace it. many of us in an emergency just eyeball the gap or use a match cover as a feeler guage. That's no excuse for a dwell meter though when you can buy one for twenty bucks and pick up 5 or 10 hp which is a big deal on a M30.
Glad to hear it started.
It's more likely that the points need replaced or at least adjusted. The information is available here as a guide: http://www.e9-driven.com/GeneralInfo.asp in either the repair manual or in the owner's manual also.
Check the tightness of of the screw which holds the condenser on the distributer.
On the cap, yes. Just replace one wire at a time. Before replacing, what your looking for is a small black line inside or out where electrical is crossing a path where it shouldn't. A small amount of black or carbon is normal on the brass contacts. Same for the rotor. Both can be carefully cleaned with sandpaper to help or just replace. The engine firing order is embossed on the valve cover if something gets confusing and the revolution is clockwise.
On the points- held by screws. First get the distributer lobe in position whereby the points are open. Bumping the engine over or if it's close the cam can actually turn by hand a small amount which is advance. The gap of the points is important to best running.
Until you get a bit familiar with the engine, pls. follow Don's advice and not remove the distributer. Check the wiring connections as well as the screws that ground the condensor and points first as it's likely as you said you just bumped it back in position. The other thing is to look at the wires/ cap running at night. See sparks or arcing? It's not supposed to. Another oldtimer trick- turn on the AM radio to no station- hear something regular? Not supposed to.
Advice to all- carry a spare set of points and a condenser in the car. There's no need to be stranded for a $6 dollar part once you know how to replace it. many of us in an emergency just eyeball the gap or use a match cover as a feeler guage. That's no excuse for a dwell meter though when you can buy one for twenty bucks and pick up 5 or 10 hp which is a big deal on a M30.
Glad to hear it started.
