Nice Idea. Can you help with information on how you sourced the backelite? How you cut out. Appreciate
Carburetor and Gas pump overheating
- Thread starter RIQUE
- Start date
will check but likely also
Jackpot. The vent tube attaches to the fuel filler neck - check where it leads as DeQ says. If no tube then you need a vented cap.
stphers
Well-Known Member
I bought some BAKELITE from amazon/ebay Had a local guy with a water jet cutter cut some out for me You can get extra thick base gaskets ( but only 4 mm thick ) from Pierce Manifolds that are for a Weber 32/36 Same bolt pattern as the coupe carbs Use one and probably not have to use extended studs
Thanks, Rick
Thanks, Rick
well, nice,
a question i do have about this
how does this common opening matches with the two different openings in the manifold and in the carbs ?
Last edited:
What thickness backelite?
i see a bit like snakeoil, unsure,
i understand you will tend to try anything, but
that is trying to stop a part of conduction of heat, i say part because your have the studs, and all the conduction and convection around
it does not convince me very much
you car has this problem when you stop, so not conduction for me, more air dissipation
again, find the cause, IMHO
I would solve the tank vacuum issue before yanking the carbs for new base plates and opening up that rabbit hole.
These insulators actually do help reduce carb heating from the manifold. However, I’m with Steve that it’s probably something else.
I use two of these under each Weber on my E3
WEBER 38/38 DGAS Carburetor Base Gasket -3mm Thick Isolator-Style! FREE SHIP! | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for WEBER 38/38 DGAS Carburetor Base Gasket -3mm Thick Isolator-Style! FREE SHIP! at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
i love when something may work for me because it works in OTHER conditions
so…
put it this way,
my car goes well without, so it is not needed, so the problem is elsewhere
so I say for me IT IS snake oil, understanding something it is not necessary for the purpose of the problem i am dealing with...
Last edited:
Ulrich 3.0 CSA
Well-Known Member
Hello
The fuel line shouldn‘t touch the hot cylinderhead.
I had problems with starting the hot engine in hot climate.
Because airfilter housing will get also hot.
After fuel line routing was modified as shown on foto I didn’t had any problems. I also used a clamp/holder to pull the fuel line away from the airfilter housing
Ulrich
The fuel line shouldn‘t touch the hot cylinderhead.
I had problems with starting the hot engine in hot climate.
Because airfilter housing will get also hot.
After fuel line routing was modified as shown on foto I didn’t had any problems. I also used a clamp/holder to pull the fuel line away from the airfilter housing
Ulrich
Sorry to go down this rat hole: snake oil is something which has falsely claimed function. These spacers do have ability to insulate so their function is not false.
Whether or not you need them on your car has nothing to do with their functional properties.
A better choice of words for you is “superfluous” or maybe “unnecessary”
oooohhh i appreciate being educated in language; thank you
i did not have that connotation of falseness
apologies i speak perfect basque and spanish, my english is improving thanks to these interactions
Interesting. For vapor lock the problem would occur when the fuel is no longer liquid before reaching the pump. That suggests that the overall heat of the engine bay matters more than carb temperature. Lack of tank venting is listed number one in the technical manual as a cause for poor fuel pressure. This also explains the no start after driving, as the tank accumulated negative pressure and the pump operates at the lowest RPMs at crank time.
My wild guess is that this could be thermal, could be pressure, or both.
My wild guess is that this could be thermal, could be pressure, or both.
Sorry for being the language jerk