Changed to SS brake lines

You need tubing wrenches. A closed end wrench with a slot that fits over the tubing/ nut/ hose end and gives the most coverage to grip. Two of them for brake/ tubing work.

Sacrifice the hose if you must.

Righty-tighty, left loosey.

If absolutely stubborn- smack it with two opposing hammers or such to shock the connection, but only as a last resort.
 
Will give it a try again. I have tube wrenches and have been using them. Not a whole lot of leverage and in some tight spaces. Cutting the rubber tube helps?
 
"Tubing wrenches" are more commonly referred to (around here) as Flare Nut Wrenches. You can get a set at Sears or your friendly local tools and parts jobber such as Matco, Snap-O, etc. A decent set should be a stage 3 part of every old car owner's toolbox. They are a godsend for any hydraulic line work.

IIRC you'll need an 11 and 14 mm wrenches to undo the flex line. Since it has had water-absorbing brake fluid inside the line for 30-plus years, any leakage will have wicked water into the joint and it'll be REALLY TIGHT. Possibly so tight that destructive methods enter your mind. Peace out, dude.

You're dealing with one of the common conundrums or older car repair: the tight or stuck fitting. There are several (many?) ways to approach it. Most commonly, soak the joint overnight in a rag soaked with your favorite penetrating oil. We've heard a lot about Aero-Kroil, PBlaster, or a 50/50 mix of acetone and auto trans fluid. Then try again the next day. If still stuck, applying some concentrated heat or sharp vibration to the joint may be useful. Until or unless you absolutely give up on getting it free, try not to mung up (technical term) the flats of the nuts so much that your only resort is vise grips or cutting tools.

Cutting the line may allow you to get a 6-point socket or box wrench on the fitting directly. Without cutting, you have to use flare nut wrenches, mini monkey wrench or vise grips. Please avoid the vise grips and hack mechanic stuff.
 
I have not given up yet, but these guys must be fused together or so they seem. Have not resorted to the vise grips yet but I'm tempted. The 11mm fitting thickness just does not seem to be thick enough and with that spring thing in the way it's difficult to keep the wrench flat on it. Have them soaking in liquid wrench again now. Going to keep trying.
 
I just realized something. There is a clip that sits in back of the metal tube fitting. This is the fitting that I can not get a good grip on because it is too thin. I also check the part manuel and these clips are still available. If I compress the clips or flatten them I can get the wrench on the fitting and not worry about it slipping off. Has anyone tried this?
 
I'm still having a tough time with getting the old rubber hose off. Im still on the rear and cut the hoses. Got a deep socket on the rubber hose side. Got tube wrenches for the metal line side and these things are on solid. I can not seem to get enough leverage in there. Any suggestion is appreciated. Thanks
 
The seized

Spray down with a product called "Kroil" and let soak with repeated spraying. Leave it overnight and let it do the job. I work in the marine industry and this is the best stuff I have found by far. No substitute. Worst case scenario would be twisted off steel lines, sucks but it is what it is. The other and maybe the best option is heat. Use a MAP bottle and be careful not to blow yourself to smithereens' If you heat and quickly quench with water most fittings will submit.
 
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Pamp is refering to a propane torch.

You're rapidly getting to a decision time to cut something. The hose, if you can get the line out and work on it. If not it's replacement time for both.

If you have bending and flaring tools, most auto parts stores sell lines and fittings that you bend. Use your old line as a pattern.

Perhaps, a brake shop would make one up for you.

I don't see the rear lines being available new any more.

The fittings are M10x1. A pretty common size.
 
Have already cut the rubber tubing. Going to get a small propane sunday and try some heat and shock.
 
Nothing but fun

No, I am referring to MAP gas yellow bottle, propane will not give the heat. Same tip as your propane set. Available at the Home Despot. Just buy the can. If you do not have this, buy the propane set and add the MAP can. Auto trigger is nice but costy. Go with the budget....again, be careful. Extinguisher at the ready....this works. Be careful again as this gas will melt all if you are not paying attention. Sorry Hono, I am being redundant for sure...
 
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Heat, be careful

To answer the question on hand held heat devices....the yellow can is as I read 99.5 % Propylene. Very effective for the hobbyist as this gas is much hotter than propane. I must add a disclaimer, dangerous if used improperly. Propane is a staple and more user friendly. I do all of my silver solder repairs with propane as the heat is easier to control. Seized studs and the like then the yellow is your friend. It will melt all if not used carefully as will oxy-acetylene.
 
I'm going try the heat but I just want to be clear since there are some precaution that needs to be taken. I should heat the metal tube fitting side or the rubber tube side or both? How hot? Till Red? Need protective googles? Then place cold water? Will this slatter? Will get some safety glasses? Then try to loosen the connection? Have a extinguisher already! Sorry for all the questions just want to be safe.
 
Break away

I would heat the fitting until you just see some color, cold water on the ready, and quench the fitting as to cool rapidly. If the tube starts to twist than it is basically game over and now on to a tubing show as mentioned earlier. Safety, safety, safety.
 
Good luck to you

I sure hope you are successful as to keep my arm chair mechanic cred. intact! When I first bought my coupe I went through all bleeders, line fittings, etc. and broke them all free using the "Kroil" method. Just for drill as to not encounter problems up the road. I only recently installed stainless lines and it went very well with none of the problems you are having. I was not having any issues, but I have seen more than my fair share of internally collapsed brake lines and felt mine were due. Plus the stainless lines just look cool!
 
What you need is a torch that you can adjust the flame way down on so you don’t burn up other things on the car. I use a Meco brand “Aviation Jet” because the adjustment knobs are placed 180 degrees apart which allows me to set it down while working with the flame pointing up where it hopefully can’t burn whatever. The idea is to just touch the side of the steel fitting on the hose with the flame so it expands faster than the nut & steel line that’s screwed into it. It really doesn’t take a lot of heat --- just heat applied in the right place. The brake hose could blow out of the fitting and brake fluid catch fire so yes having a fire bottle near is wise but most fires can be put out with a soaking wet rag for far less money. I don’t have powder fire bottles in my shop or my car (to messy to clean up) only Carbon Dioxide or Halon.

Penetrating oils always get the first try but next I heat things slightly and hold a candle against it. Not too hot (makes too much smoke) but just hot enough to melt the candle. Try it you will be surprised how well it works. Finally if the caliper bleeder screws still will not break free take a socket or piece of pipe that just clears the hose tit and give it a shot straight in. By the way the same technique works on German wheel bolts, put the correct sized socket on the bolt and give it a good shot straight in, after that you will have no trouble breaking it free. My 2 cents worth on breaking stuff free --- and good luck to you. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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I went all over looking for this Kroil stuff and now one has it. I check my local hardware store, home depo, lowes. Is this stuff in a particular department? All I have seen is Liquid Wrench and Gunk.
 
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