Changed to SS brake lines

Penetrating oils

Some info from another forum that I found:

Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective

test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.


Penetrating oil .......... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds

The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix
of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.

Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this

one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
 
I saw that same info and have been pleased with Liquid Wrench thus far.


pamp said:
Some info from another forum that I found:

Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective

test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.


Penetrating oil .......... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds

The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix
of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.

Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this

one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
Click to expand...
 
kys911t said:
I went all over looking for this Kroil stuff and now one has it. I check my local hardware store, home depo, lowes. Is this stuff in a particular department? All I have seen is Liquid Wrench and Gunk.
Click to expand...
Try a boat supplies place.
PB Blaster also works well and is often available at the chain auto supply places.
But I still prefer Kroil...
 
kys911t said:
I went all over looking for this Kroil stuff and now one has it. I check my local hardware store, home depo, lowes. Is this stuff in a particular department? All I have seen is Liquid Wrench and Gunk.
Click to expand...
That should soak/work fine...if your fittings are not literally fused together (though it sounds like....) these products are not "that" different...

Bill Riblett said:
Try a boat supplies place.
PB Blaster also works well and is often available at the chain auto supply places.
But I still prefer Kroil...
Click to expand...

Over the years (like decades) I've heard about this "test" and kinda decided it was just some dumb urban legend...mainly so I wouldn't go out and mix some big batch of ATF with acetone-hey when it comes to penetrating oil a pint is a big batch.

Recently (last 5 years) I've been using PB because a local car buddy uses it and it was readily available and seems to work fine, my most recent barn find had been sitting for 50+years http://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/62HarleySide580.jpg and a dot or two on each fastener every night for a few weeks and now ALL of those nuts and bolts are free. But...I'm like Bill, I still prefer .... "Kroil...the oil that creeps" http://wastewaterpr.com/assets/images/photos/Kana_GroupingHiRes_3x5_(16).jpg
 
Last edited:
I was able to find the Kroil on line. My biggest problem is getting enough leverage on both wrenches to give it a good sharp twist.
 
Lines

Man,
You are really having a struggle. I am going to assume the rears are giving you trouble. I am also going to assume you have line wrenches. If you offset them as to give a one handed squeeze in the loose direction....or you have to "two block" one wrench and "double wrench" the other. By this I mean put a box end wrench to the open side of the wrench you are using to double your leverage. The other blocked against something solid. Since you have the old lines nipped, do the same trick with your ratchet....Best of luck to you.
 
I appreciate everyones support during this effort. Its not been easy for me. But I have learned allot. I'm determined and i've set aside through this holiday to get these things off and get my car back on the road. HAPPY THANKSGIVING to all coupers.
 
kys911t said:
I appreciate everyones support during this effort. Its not been easy for me. But I have learned allot. I'm determined and i've set aside through this holiday to get these things off and get my car back on the road. HAPPY THANKSGIVING to all coupers.
Click to expand...

Not to ignore all of your efforts, have you posted a picture of the offending couplings or at least specifically identified it/them?

It has been too long since I replaced brake lines to remember any specific difficulties. As the many replies suggest there are many ways to approach the problem. For some reason, I remember resorting either to the appropriate "crow's foot" and or a plumber's wrench to extricate a flex line that connected through part of a subframe. Not quite sure if this is a line that you are working on, or for that matter, whether it was the E9 rather than another vehicle that posed the problem. Of course, heat and or a chisel work, but often as a last resort.

Best of luck and happy holiday!
 
Time to Celebrate

After many attempts and lots of well received suggestions, I was able to the the rear rubber hoses off the solid brake lines. I'm not quite sure what exactly did the trick. I did use some heat on one of them but the other broke loose with a lot of struggling, positioning and repositioning for leverage. Pamp's suggestions for squeezing the two wrenches ultimately broke them loose. The only unfortunate part was that I had to resort to the vice grips, but I did not seem to muck them up too badly. Now I can order my lines and reinstall new stainless steel lines. And yes the old ones were completely blocked at the junctions of the fitting and the rubber hose. Thanks everyone.
 
Back on the Road

Thanks to everyone. I could not have done this. I got new ss Brake Lines in the rear all installed and got my car running on the road. At least around the block or two. With good brakes now. Still lots more to do. Thanks again!! Oh one last thing. I can not get the red brake light to go off. It flickers and goes on and off still.
 
Yes the hand brake when you move it around it goes off temporarily but goes back on. The fluid is ok but the float has fluid in it. Can I get a new float? Could that be the problem?
 
kys911t said:
The fluid is ok but the float has fluid in it. Can I get a new float? Could that be the problem?
Click to expand...

Common problem. part no: 34321103065 (float and strainer used on many models).
hth
24.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top