Looking dam sexi and it’s coming on nicely
Is your car on the Lezebre website that records all the CSL cars that are still with us ???
Is your car on the Lezebre website that records all the CSL cars that are still with us ???
CSL Restoration
- Thread starter Marc-M
- Start date
-
- Tags
- restoration list
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
Hi yes i put it on a few years ago - but it was blue then! and a rust bucket...
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
I have had a few problems with my old head lining - the old material had shrunk and became brittle - so was ripping as stretch was put onto it.
I posted on this outstanding forum my problems, and I got some fantastic answers and pointers to what to do, or where to go.
A big thanks to all that helped me…. Appreciated big time.
I had another go at fitting the old head liner but was just a waste of time – so my only option was to get some new.
A member on the site gave me guidance and there was a UK member who had some spare to sell. so, a deal was done and I got it in double quick time – sent it off to the trimmers to do the stitching and late last week I got it back.
It is a fantastic match – and the old one will go on a shelf in my garage to gather dust
The rear Ply board bow that the original headliner was stuck on, was all warped and delaminating – so I had a go mending it – but was still not perfect – I looked at making a new one but bending ply to the correct radius etc was a bit beyond me.
So, I made a new one out of 2 pieces of 2mm aluminium sheet.
Shaped them both to the existing bow then pop rivet them together – did a little reshaping to match up the me existing bow –
The clip fixings on the original bow are recessed by 2mm into bow – so marked out the holes and used a core drill to cut through the 1st 2mm section – and then drilled out the other 13mm holes for the clips to locate.
This allowed the clips to have a bit of wiggle room.
Rounded all the edges – and glued the heading to the bow –
Fitted the rear bow and all the other bows to get it into position in the car - but it was a little loose at the back rear comers – marked with chalk where the material needed to be stretched around the bow – took out the whole headliner unpicked the corners and re fitted – had to repeat 2 more times to get it right, a bit of a pain of a job.
Pictures show it in position – left it over the weekend to relax – tonight will be a bit of gentle heat – stretch and fix permanently in position – I hope.
I posted on this outstanding forum my problems, and I got some fantastic answers and pointers to what to do, or where to go.
A big thanks to all that helped me…. Appreciated big time.
I had another go at fitting the old head liner but was just a waste of time – so my only option was to get some new.
A member on the site gave me guidance and there was a UK member who had some spare to sell. so, a deal was done and I got it in double quick time – sent it off to the trimmers to do the stitching and late last week I got it back.
It is a fantastic match – and the old one will go on a shelf in my garage to gather dust
The rear Ply board bow that the original headliner was stuck on, was all warped and delaminating – so I had a go mending it – but was still not perfect – I looked at making a new one but bending ply to the correct radius etc was a bit beyond me.
So, I made a new one out of 2 pieces of 2mm aluminium sheet.
Shaped them both to the existing bow then pop rivet them together – did a little reshaping to match up the me existing bow –
The clip fixings on the original bow are recessed by 2mm into bow – so marked out the holes and used a core drill to cut through the 1st 2mm section – and then drilled out the other 13mm holes for the clips to locate.
This allowed the clips to have a bit of wiggle room.
Rounded all the edges – and glued the heading to the bow –
Fitted the rear bow and all the other bows to get it into position in the car - but it was a little loose at the back rear comers – marked with chalk where the material needed to be stretched around the bow – took out the whole headliner unpicked the corners and re fitted – had to repeat 2 more times to get it right, a bit of a pain of a job.
Pictures show it in position – left it over the weekend to relax – tonight will be a bit of gentle heat – stretch and fix permanently in position – I hope.
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
The hood lining is now permanently fitted.
Had to stand through the front windscreen opening to stretch the lining from back to front.
Then worked on the sides in.
is a little fiddley and you have to sometimes re do what you have pulled into position because it ripples a little – but other than that, its no so bad.
Left the bulldog clips in place overnight and will cut off excess material and put the lights – trim and visors in tonight.
Had to stand through the front windscreen opening to stretch the lining from back to front.
Then worked on the sides in.
is a little fiddley and you have to sometimes re do what you have pulled into position because it ripples a little – but other than that, its no so bad.
Left the bulldog clips in place overnight and will cut off excess material and put the lights – trim and visors in tonight.
AndyNZ
Active Member
Hi Marc, just an inspirational restoration. If mine ends up anywhere near as beautifully done as yours I'll be very happy indeed. Wondering if you may have a moment to please post a photo of the general area under and around where the rear seats go? I have some small brackets affixed under where the rear left seat goes, but nothing on the right hand side. As my car has been butchered somewhat prior to my purchasing it I'm trying to work out what is original. I'm also a bit stumped on how the rear Scheel seats are secured into the car. Hope you don't mind me hi-jacking your thread with the occasional question! Being very much a noob here I'm happy starting separate threads if this is considered bad form.
Think there are some pics in my resto thread.
e9coupe.com
CSL Barn Find 2285251
That got everybody's attention. Apologies to the couple of Forum members that know parts of this story but now that the deal has been closed I thought it only fair to update everybody. A while back word of a chamonix 1972 'barn find' ' City Pack' CSL was doing the rounds here among parts of...
e9coupe.com
AndyNZ
Active Member
Perfect, thank you so much.
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
Hi Andy
some pictures of how the seats were fixed - it may help
some pictures of how the seats were fixed - it may help
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
Window fitting has turned out to be a long job -
Problems
Once you have the front windows in and seating correctly bring up the rear windows and you can change the size of underlap and angle of the rear windows to run parallel with the front windows.
But doing this you will have to take the rear windows out many times and make sight adjustments by loosing off the bolts and tapping with a rubber mallet (every time I did this before any adjustment, I marked with a sharpie the glass and the glass holder so I could see how much it moved).
I am still working on the windows and I think now I’m nearly there – only a few more nights and I hope to get them as good as they can possibly be – once it’s done its done…. I hope!
You will see from the pictures the previous damage from the last owners where the windows have been chipped when the have hit the chrome trim – I am ensuring that the windows are as far forward so I get a good clearance … well that’s the idea.
Problems
- Door window to be parallel with the top seal
- Door window up seat correctly in the top seal
- The chrome ¼ window frame to sit snuggly against the seals
- Door window to be as far forward so it does not catch the chrome strip
- Rear side window to sit correctly
- Rear side window to have the correct gap between the upright seal against the door window.
Once you have the front windows in and seating correctly bring up the rear windows and you can change the size of underlap and angle of the rear windows to run parallel with the front windows.
But doing this you will have to take the rear windows out many times and make sight adjustments by loosing off the bolts and tapping with a rubber mallet (every time I did this before any adjustment, I marked with a sharpie the glass and the glass holder so I could see how much it moved).
I am still working on the windows and I think now I’m nearly there – only a few more nights and I hope to get them as good as they can possibly be – once it’s done its done…. I hope!
You will see from the pictures the previous damage from the last owners where the windows have been chipped when the have hit the chrome trim – I am ensuring that the windows are as far forward so I get a good clearance … well that’s the idea.
Hello, that's what I use any question you have ask almost a year now I am using CERAKOTE it is easy to use and works much better than powder cote there is special clear coating for aluminum that you can use for all moldings and the most we need for engine part is silver color that they have silver color C-7700 with temperatures up to 1,800° Fahrenheit and they have special piston color that you spray on piston during engine rebuild with that paint piston never gets built up and always clean but before spray on any part surface has to be very very clean extra clean.
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
Been a while – but it taken so long to get the side windows in some sort of order.
Been one of those jobs that has been enjoyable but dammed frustrating.
This is not a short job – as the whole lot is just like playing with a Rubik’s Cube.
TIP – Get the front side window in place and sealing well on the top roof seal.
When you have the rear side window in, and if it’s not parallel…. use a SG Education SG ADS2M8 Adjustable Set Square and sit it on the top of the solid rubber window bung (the thick rubber bit), and adjust the set sq. so that its parallel with the front side window – take rear window out – disassemble and manipulate the metal window holder (with loosened bol
This will get the window parallel –
I hope that makes sense –
To get the seal overlap seal to be just touching is again hours of fun and this can be done with the window adjustments.
So, I managed to get all this done – then I put the anodised trims on the top of the windows – and the new ones are slightly thicker than the original ones – so when on, pushed the main window slightly outward and messed up the overlap seals and I needed to re set the windows again!
The only thing now is – when I drive fast, will the pressure in the car push the windows out…
All I know its that it will be water tight when its not moving…. Well, I hope.
Sill coves are now on -
Next up is the under dash fitting -finish off the wiring - test everything before the trim goes in,,,
Windows are going in next week - but looking to start her for the first time within the next few weeks!
Been one of those jobs that has been enjoyable but dammed frustrating.
This is not a short job – as the whole lot is just like playing with a Rubik’s Cube.
TIP – Get the front side window in place and sealing well on the top roof seal.
When you have the rear side window in, and if it’s not parallel…. use a SG Education SG ADS2M8 Adjustable Set Square and sit it on the top of the solid rubber window bung (the thick rubber bit), and adjust the set sq. so that its parallel with the front side window – take rear window out – disassemble and manipulate the metal window holder (with loosened bol
ts) using the set square sat on the rubber so that the adjustable part of the set sq. is now parallel with the side of the window.
This will get the window parallel –
I hope that makes sense –
To get the seal overlap seal to be just touching is again hours of fun and this can be done with the window adjustments.
So, I managed to get all this done – then I put the anodised trims on the top of the windows – and the new ones are slightly thicker than the original ones – so when on, pushed the main window slightly outward and messed up the overlap seals and I needed to re set the windows again!
The only thing now is – when I drive fast, will the pressure in the car push the windows out…
All I know its that it will be water tight when its not moving…. Well, I hope.
Sill coves are now on -
Next up is the under dash fitting -finish off the wiring - test everything before the trim goes in,,,
Windows are going in next week - but looking to start her for the first time within the next few weeks!
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
Been a while - but tonight i should finish the cars 5 years restoration - but here are a few picture i took last night..
Only need to put i 1 rear seat - 2 front seats - Glove box - now i think that is going to be fun getting the bolds into the rear piano hinge - as im not to flexy
And a good old clean up.........
Only need to put i 1 rear seat - 2 front seats - Glove box - now i think that is going to be fun getting the bolds into the rear piano hinge - as im not to flexy
And a good old clean up.........
Woohoo! Congratulations Marc, what an incredible achievement!
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
The car is finished apart from tracking, the CSL decals, wing mirrors and a good clean. (Not been cleaned yet!)
Took it today to the garage to check its tracking – caster and camber – and apart from the tracking all was fine and within tolerance – this was something I was worried about because the inner wings were taken out and I used a plum bob and a scale to set the inner wings to the correct point – but I was never 100% I got it right – but I did!
Having never driven a E9 before I must say it drove well – engine a little lumpy when cold – but as soon as it warmed up was super smooth – the ride was firm, but took the bumps in the road smoothly – was expecting a bit of a harsher ride.
Brakes – they seam to bite a little – so looks like another brake bleed…. You can feel the servos pulling the peddle down – a most odd feeling….
But apart from that all is good, and I’m looking forward in giving a good hard drive.
Will post a few more pictures when the decals are on –
A massive big shout out to E9Coupe and all the folk who followed the blog and helped me along the way with problems, it’s been massively appreciated and I hope I can reciprocate.
Now for the next stage – driving and enjoying the car……
Marc
Took it today to the garage to check its tracking – caster and camber – and apart from the tracking all was fine and within tolerance – this was something I was worried about because the inner wings were taken out and I used a plum bob and a scale to set the inner wings to the correct point – but I was never 100% I got it right – but I did!
Having never driven a E9 before I must say it drove well – engine a little lumpy when cold – but as soon as it warmed up was super smooth – the ride was firm, but took the bumps in the road smoothly – was expecting a bit of a harsher ride.
Brakes – they seam to bite a little – so looks like another brake bleed…. You can feel the servos pulling the peddle down – a most odd feeling….
But apart from that all is good, and I’m looking forward in giving a good hard drive.
Will post a few more pictures when the decals are on –
A massive big shout out to E9Coupe and all the folk who followed the blog and helped me along the way with problems, it’s been massively appreciated and I hope I can reciprocate.
Now for the next stage – driving and enjoying the car……
Marc
Stunning, congrats!
Looking great, will look even better with the decals on !!!!!
Ps... you for got to put the rear fog lamp back
Ps... you for got to put the rear fog lamp back
Impressive skills and finish - good on you
Marc-M
Well-Known Member
S
ome more pictures now we have put the CSL decals down the side.
Any day a CSL get's back on the road is a fantastic day. Congratulations. Give it 6 months and you will want to do another. Or is that just me?