Okay let's try this again! Check above...
Custom widened Weds!
- Thread starter '69 2800cs
- Start date
Okay let's try this again! Check above...
Todd,
Thanks for posting this, it is helpful to me as well as Markos. Are your fenders rolled (F & R), and if so, how much rolling, and how much clearance between the outside of the rear tire and the fender lip?
Mark, I'll be getting my car on the lift next week and be able to do some 'trial fittings' of the 9.5" (3.5" lip, 6" barrel) wheels.
Gary
Thanks for posting this, it is helpful to me as well as Markos. Are your fenders rolled (F & R), and if so, how much rolling, and how much clearance between the outside of the rear tire and the fender lip?
Mark, I'll be getting my car on the lift next week and be able to do some 'trial fittings' of the 9.5" (3.5" lip, 6" barrel) wheels.
Gary
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'69 2800cs
Well-Known Member
Mark-Yep, I see your picture now....looks like the same dimensions on the center as mine.
My fronts are rolled quite a bit, I have the Eastwood tool. But, I then have the CSL arches which I am pretty sure are original pieces, and those had to be cut quite a bit to fit the wheels under all turning and ride height permutations. Now that I have calculated ET5 for my fronts that explains the rubbing as compared to ET11 wheels. I have adjustable camber plates and could go a little more negative if I wanted.
In the rear, no rolling and no need to but the 195 tires are pretty close. A 205 might rub and I haven't even tried to roll, the steel sure seems thick there, while the fronts were easy to roll.
Gary-I am not far from you in Moorestown NJ....if you wanted to see them in person, take some measurements etc, let me know. I have a lift here as well.
My fronts are rolled quite a bit, I have the Eastwood tool. But, I then have the CSL arches which I am pretty sure are original pieces, and those had to be cut quite a bit to fit the wheels under all turning and ride height permutations. Now that I have calculated ET5 for my fronts that explains the rubbing as compared to ET11 wheels. I have adjustable camber plates and could go a little more negative if I wanted.
In the rear, no rolling and no need to but the 195 tires are pretty close. A 205 might rub and I haven't even tried to roll, the steel sure seems thick there, while the fronts were easy to roll.
Gary-I am not far from you in Moorestown NJ....if you wanted to see them in person, take some measurements etc, let me know. I have a lift here as well.
Nice
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Todd,
Thanks for the opportunity to take a look at them. I'll keep that in mind, and might do so sometime in Januaery. I'll send a PM if/when I can cross over the Delaware!!
Thanks for the opportunity to take a look at them. I'll keep that in mind, and might do so sometime in Januaery. I'll send a PM if/when I can cross over the Delaware!!
@'69 2800cs - Aplologies and Thanks in advance for latching on to your Weds thread. I figured it was the best place to consolidate info on these wheels.
I mentioned early in this thread that I planned on some custom Weds. That was mainly due to having a set of Weds faces with no barrels. The Weds barrels are proprietary, so it is a costly affair to build a new set from scratch. As time went on on I picked up a relatively inexpensive set of staggered 7” and 8” weds with 5yo “new” Michelins.
While the wheels were parked in my shed for a good four months or so, I had my original faces powder coated a nice silver color. I wanted to paint the centers black before winter, but most importantly I wanted to mount good tires on my project car.
Excavated from the shed - into the garage. I bought a whole 528e with a friend to get these. He tooks the G265 and 002 Salvage took the rest:
Old faces removed, lips cleaned up, and fresh faces masked:
Ugh - so painful!
Painting the faces with Duplicolor Satin Black Wheel Spray HWP102. I scuffed the powdered centers with 600 grit paper.
Anyone who has purchased a part from me will recognize this green cellophane.
Mounted:
The tires are 205 all around. The rears have more stretch than I would prefer. When I actually start driving the car I’ll swap them for 225’s. Good enough for now.
Edit: Added 68mm BMW center caps:
I mentioned early in this thread that I planned on some custom Weds. That was mainly due to having a set of Weds faces with no barrels. The Weds barrels are proprietary, so it is a costly affair to build a new set from scratch. As time went on on I picked up a relatively inexpensive set of staggered 7” and 8” weds with 5yo “new” Michelins.
While the wheels were parked in my shed for a good four months or so, I had my original faces powder coated a nice silver color. I wanted to paint the centers black before winter, but most importantly I wanted to mount good tires on my project car.
Excavated from the shed - into the garage. I bought a whole 528e with a friend to get these. He tooks the G265 and 002 Salvage took the rest:
Old faces removed, lips cleaned up, and fresh faces masked:
Ugh - so painful!
Painting the faces with Duplicolor Satin Black Wheel Spray HWP102. I scuffed the powdered centers with 600 grit paper.
Anyone who has purchased a part from me will recognize this green cellophane.
Mounted:
The tires are 205 all around. The rears have more stretch than I would prefer. When I actually start driving the car I’ll swap them for 225’s. Good enough for now.
Edit: Added 68mm BMW center caps:
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I figured I would also post some math in here for folks that want to know more (or correct me ) about offset calculation. I honestly wasn't sure what I bought. I figured I had 16x8 square wheels. When working with them this weekend I kept thinking - this one wheel looks bigger. The tires were the same width which threw me off.
So - to measure the wheels, use a board that just spans the lip. Using your handy metric tape measure (get with the times people - you own a german car!), measure the distance from the mounting flange to the bottom of the board. Repeat on both sides.
Now you would measure the distance from the barrel lip to the wheel flange. If your wheel flange is removed, you can measure it on a table. Borrowing my measurement from the previous page, the wheel flange to mounting surface is 25.59 (basically 1").
These are the measurements I got:
Front:
Front Lip to face mount: 65mm
Barrel Lip to face mount: 125mm
Face Mount thickness: 10mm
Face wheel flange to mounting surface: 25.59
Overall Wheel Width: 200mm (65mm + 125mm + 10mm)
Calculated Front Offset:
The front wheel is 200mm thick. The center of the wheel is 100mm. The barrel is 125mm plus 10mm for the face mount. That's 135mm, or 35mm over center. Now reduce that number by 25.59 for the face. That comes out to 10.59, which is basically ET11, the sweet spot for a 7" e9 wheel. Keep in mind that 200mm is 7.87" (200 divided by 25.4). That is a 7" wheel, as the tire mounting area isn't included in the width.
Rear:
Front Lip to face mount: 65mm
Barrel Lip to face mount: 152mm
Face Mount thickness: 10mm
Face wheel flange to mounting surface: 25.59
Overall Wheel Width: 225mm (65mm + 152mm + 10mm)
Calculated Front Offset:
The rear wheel is 227mm thick. The center of the wheel is 113.5mm. The barrel is 152mm plus 10mm for the face mount. That's 162mm, or 48.5mm over center. Now reduce that number by 25.59 for the face. That comes out to 22.91, which is basically ET23, the sweet spot for an 8" e9 wheel. Keep in mind that 227mm is 8.93" (227 divided by 25.4). That is an 8" wheel, as the tire mounting area isn't included in the width.
) about offset calculation. I honestly wasn't sure what I bought. I figured I had 16x8 square wheels. When working with them this weekend I kept thinking - this one wheel looks bigger. The tires were the same width which threw me off.So - to measure the wheels, use a board that just spans the lip. Using your handy metric tape measure (get with the times people - you own a german car!
), measure the distance from the mounting flange to the bottom of the board. Repeat on both sides.
Now you would measure the distance from the barrel lip to the wheel flange. If your wheel flange is removed, you can measure it on a table. Borrowing my measurement from the previous page, the wheel flange to mounting surface is 25.59 (basically 1").
These are the measurements I got:
Front:
Front Lip to face mount: 65mm
Barrel Lip to face mount: 125mm
Face Mount thickness: 10mm
Face wheel flange to mounting surface: 25.59
Overall Wheel Width: 200mm (65mm + 125mm + 10mm)
Calculated Front Offset:
The front wheel is 200mm thick. The center of the wheel is 100mm. The barrel is 125mm plus 10mm for the face mount. That's 135mm, or 35mm over center. Now reduce that number by 25.59 for the face. That comes out to 10.59, which is basically ET11, the sweet spot for a 7" e9 wheel. Keep in mind that 200mm is 7.87" (200 divided by 25.4). That is a 7" wheel, as the tire mounting area isn't included in the width.
Rear:
Front Lip to face mount: 65mm
Barrel Lip to face mount: 152mm
Face Mount thickness: 10mm
Face wheel flange to mounting surface: 25.59
Overall Wheel Width: 225mm (65mm + 152mm + 10mm)
Calculated Front Offset:
The rear wheel is 227mm thick. The center of the wheel is 113.5mm. The barrel is 152mm plus 10mm for the face mount. That's 162mm, or 48.5mm over center. Now reduce that number by 25.59 for the face. That comes out to 22.91, which is basically ET23, the sweet spot for an 8" e9 wheel. Keep in mind that 227mm is 8.93" (227 divided by 25.4). That is an 8" wheel, as the tire mounting area isn't included in the width.
Wladek
Well-Known Member
Very cool set!!! 3tlg are the best!
repainted wheels look great. for masking the centers i use 1/16" tape from a auto paint supply store, you can set the edge without tearing a million pieces. Then come back with a wider tape.
Dohn
Well-Known Member
I figured I would also post some math in here for folks that want to know more (or correct me
So - to measure the wheels, use a board that just spans the lip. Using your handy metric tape measure (get with the times people - you own a german car!
Now you would measure the distance from the barrel lip to the wheel flange. If your wheel flange is removed, you can measure it on a table. Borrowing my measurement from the previous page, the wheel flange to mounting surface is 25.59 (basically 1").
These are the measurements I got:
Front:
Front Lip to face mount: 65mm
Barrel Lip to face mount: 125mm
Face Mount thickness: 10mm
Face wheel flange to mounting surface: 25.59
Overall Wheel Width: 200mm (65mm + 125mm + 10mm)
Calculated Front Offset:
The front wheel is 200mm thick. The center of the wheel is 100mm. The barrel is 125mm plus 10mm for the face mount. That's 135mm, or 35mm over center. Now reduce that number by 25.59 for the face. That comes out to 10.59, which is basically ET11, the sweet spot for a 7" e9 wheel. Keep in mind that 200mm is 7.87" (200 divided by 25.4). That is a 7" wheel, as the tire mounting area isn't included in the width.
Rear:
Front Lip to face mount: 65mm
Barrel Lip to face mount: 152mm
Face Mount thickness: 10mm
Face wheel flange to mounting surface: 25.59
Overall Wheel Width: 225mm (65mm + 152mm + 10mm)
Calculated Front Offset:
The rear wheel is 227mm thick. The center of the wheel is 113.5mm. The barrel is 152mm plus 10mm for the face mount. That's 162mm, or 48.5mm over center. Now reduce that number by 25.59 for the face. That comes out to 22.91, which is basically ET23, the sweet spot for an 8" e9 wheel. Keep in mind that 227mm is 8.93" (227 divided by 25.4). That is an 8" wheel, as the tire mounting area isn't included in the width.
All this math reminds me why I became an art major... Great looking wheels, though!
Thanks Steve! The faces are powder coated but the centers are paint over powder. That flexible tape would have been nice. I figured the auto parts store had something like that but I couldn’t make
it to the store.
Great thread! I love the outside of the box thinking. I did the complete opposite, I turned a 16"x8" Alpina in to a 16"x6".
I was wondering if that is how you pulled that off!
Trying to split set #2. These are from Ohio. I don’t envy anyone working on old midwest car. My California set came apart with a few taps of the orange deadblow. These one’s aren’t responding to heat. I’ll need to soak them and possibly rig up a splitter.
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If you have an old oven that works a treat
Yup, I've split quite a few multi-piece wheels w/my old oven (about 350 deg F for about 7-10 min). Still requires a piece of 2"x4" to slam the back of it on as they are tough w/age and old silicone.
I don't but I've borrowed my powder coater's oven for other stuff, like bending 50' of Azek PVC decking.
Wladek
Well-Known Member
On BBS RS's & Lorinser RT's disassembling i used rubber hammer (gently hit the faces from different sides (crossed movement));
For one set rubber hammer wasn't enough, so piece of wood and normal hammer was used.
For one set rubber hammer wasn't enough, so piece of wood and normal hammer was used.
'69 2800cs
Well-Known Member
and another set of Weds saved!
Mine were a little corroded, but not that bad. Still, I had a few bolts that soaked for days and a few of them needed the full oxy acetylene treatment. Make them glow bright red and they'll give up eventually.
Mine were a little corroded, but not that bad. Still, I had a few bolts that soaked for days and a few of them needed the full oxy acetylene treatment. Make them glow bright red and they'll give up eventually.
and another set of Weds saved!
Mine were a little corroded, but not that bad. Still, I had a few bolts that soaked for days and a few of them needed the full oxy acetylene treatment. Make them glow bright red and they'll give up eventually.
Thanks for the tip! I think I’m going to make a splitter for them. I’m looking on CL for some 1/2” thick steel or aluminum. More to come...