johanaxelson
Well-Known Member
For the heat I once made a simple heat shield between the exhaust and the firewall. Simple fix and made a big difference.
Dynamat question
- Thread starter ajenzo
- Start date
John Buchtenkirch
Well-Known Member
I’m not saying your right or wrong but I’m most curious why you opted to wrap the pipes as a pair rather than individually ? Also did you wrap the front mufflers while you were at it ? My thinking is anything that can keep that heat from dumping into the transmission / driveshaft tunnel can only be a good thing, especially if you get stuck in traffic where you’re not moving much. Even at a 800 RPM idle there’s 2400 explosions every minute and a lot of that explosion heat has to pass right thru the center of the car…… keep it going as much as possible till it hits the tailpipe tip, at least that’s the way I see it. ~ John Buchtenkirch
Was a while ago i did this,wrapped both because it was the easiest and used less wrap I suspect? Can't really remember??
And no, muffler not wrapped because I don't have one, twin down pipes feed into 2 1/2 inch dia pipe, and then into single rear muffler
Sounds real nice without bing too noisy
And no, muffler not wrapped because I don't have one, twin down pipes feed into 2 1/2 inch dia pipe, and then into single rear muffler
Sounds real nice without bing too noisy
OK, there is new information on this controversial insulation topic.
The answers is Tjipetir
http://www.tjipetirenigma.com/#!history-/c1ktj
Finally I will be able to fit the right material under the carpet.
The answers is Tjipetir
http://www.tjipetirenigma.com/#!history-/c1ktj
Finally I will be able to fit the right material under the carpet.
This brings me back to the question of ceramic paint.
The headers that are going on to my engine are ceramic coated.
If the rest of the exhaust system is painted with Cerakote or some such DIY ceramic paint, will that keep the heat in the cabin down, at all?
The headers that are going on to my engine are ceramic coated.
If the rest of the exhaust system is painted with Cerakote or some such DIY ceramic paint, will that keep the heat in the cabin down, at all?
Doesn't seem like paint or ceramic coating would have any insulating or R value. Exhaust heat tape would have more isulative value. I also think it looks cool. Have seen it on several prewar cars to insulate the down pipes and exhaust.
My Packard's mainifolds were ceramic coated and it has failed due to the heat cycles, causing it to chip and rust under the coating. Wish the previous restorer had just used stove black or other heat cure paint.
Has anyone put sound damping inside the door pannel. I just got the door liner from Alvaro but was think of putting some sort of dampaner on the inside of the door areas I can reach in
'69 2800cs
Well-Known Member
Yes...I put a 12x12 or so section on the door skin after reskinning my one door.
Then sit inside and slam the door with the door panel off and watch for what vibrates on the inner steel section.
A few strategically placed small pieces really dampens the vibration.
Then sit inside and slam the door with the door panel off and watch for what vibrates on the inner steel section.
A few strategically placed small pieces really dampens the vibration.
I believe the E9 came with sound deadening material in the door. My 72 bavaria did also. Some form of butyl liner but with age, it actually slid off, found it in the bottom of the door looking like a Dead Sea scroll. My E3 and E9 have updated sound deadening material in the doors, did so with my 67 Mustang too. Love the thud when closing.
Do it!
I added some "damplifier pro" to the inside of the door skins and "overkill" to the space between the door card/panel and the vapor barrier. There is no magic bullet to reduce noise, but...as long as you are in there...
I added some "damplifier pro" to the inside of the door skins and "overkill" to the space between the door card/panel and the vapor barrier. There is no magic bullet to reduce noise, but...as long as you are in there...
I have not, but it is a good idea. For low frequencies, you don't need to go all the way to the edges. You can accomplish a lot with a piece (say 12 x 12 perhaps) in the middle of the door skin.
I put the matt pieces in my doors also. Please be careful that they do not interfere with the window mechanism should they start to peel off in the future.
These pics also show how the door structure is cut to accept the E28 rear door window motors. You can also see the required vapor barrier applied around the outer edge of the frame.
These pics also show how the door structure is cut to accept the E28 rear door window motors. You can also see the required vapor barrier applied around the outer edge of the frame.
Attachments
The outer skin is prone to vibrations, being a weak floppy panel. It has, from factory, a heavy bitumen sheet attached to it. It's 33 by 70 cm.
The inner door frame has more internal strength due to it's shape with various depressions hence it is less prone to resonate. Modern (luxury) cars do have some sort of sound isolation there but mostly they are of the soft foam sheet from, doubling as moisture barrier.
Attachments
@sfdon, trying to find the heat shield you mentioned for the e32 - is this it? (#2)
or is it one of the ones from up front?
i also have the vapor barrier from @alprada70 ... i have been wondering if placing dynamat under the door panel (attached to the door) might not reduce noise / vibration. you have to remember that there is a lot of space / volume inside the door for vibration to create noise
We paint the inside of the door with VB 1X or similar
We are just using off the shelf stuff from Summit now