e34 3.5 direct drop in?

HB Chris

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I think the oil pan needs to be swapped or it won't clear the subframe. Looks like it's been sitting outside, can't be good, and why was it pulled?
 

texinbc

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I think the oil pan needs to be swapped or it won't clear the subframe. Looks like it's been sitting outside, can't be good, and why was it pulled?
No Idea, just found it lastnight, and thought it might be a good way to go when mated to an older 5speed
 

JFENG

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I think the oil pan needs to be swapped or it won't clear the subframe. Looks like it's been sitting outside, can't be good, and why was it pulled?

Lots of variables at play.

Oil pan must change.
One mount likely has to change
What will you use for ignition and fuel delivery?

This is where your local professional earns his due.

John
 

sfdon

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Good starting point
Good wiring harness
Wrong intake
Worn engine?
 

texinbc

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The motor mount adaptor plates I already know about, I know I will need an e28 oil pan. I want to use the fuel injection system this motor already has on it, and I would like to use the regular e9 ignition system it has on it, but not sure if that would work.
 
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sfdon

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That's a couple month project, expensive and complicated.

Google this for more info: bmw m30b35 engine swap
 

sfdon

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That was a Oh Whoops moment on my first swap.
Oil pan doesn't bolt up? Crap! Now what?
 

x_atlas0

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Tons of swap info out there and on this site, even in the Tech Archives located at the top of the page.

Off the cuff, the parts changes really depend on your intended fuel control system. Do you want to use Motronic or stick with carbs? Do you want to go MegaSquirt? You have to know that before you get a complete parts list.

From a physical standpoint, when I did this swap using Motronic 1.3, you need:\
1. Oil pickup/pump compatible with the CS pan
2. Motor mount brackets
3. Original exhaust manifolds if you want to use non-rotated downpipes (newer manifolds look almost exactly the same but the output flange is rotated ~15 degrees as I recall, which makes the DPs hit the inner fenders)
4. Trans bellhousing compatible with your chosen fueling system. Motronic 1.0 needs a CPS-compatible bellhousing, 1.3 and carb do not.
5. Depending on fuel setup, you may also need a 2002tii brake booster. By far the most difficult part to find.

Lots of other smaller stuff, like upper timing cover, valve cover, intake manifold, modifying DPs to handle O2 sensors, etc.
 

texinbc

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Tons of swap info out there and on this site, even in the Tech Archives located at the top of the page.

Off the cuff, the parts changes really depend on your intended fuel control system. Do you want to use Motronic or stick with carbs? Do you want to go MegaSquirt? You have to know that before you get a complete parts list.

From a physical standpoint, when I did this swap using Motronic 1.3, you need:\
1. Oil pickup/pump compatible with the CS pan
2. Motor mount brackets
3. Original exhaust manifolds if you want to use non-rotated downpipes (newer manifolds look almost exactly the same but the output flange is rotated ~15 degrees as I recall, which makes the DPs hit the inner fenders)
4. Trans bellhousing compatible with your chosen fueling system. Motronic 1.0 needs a CPS-compatible bellhousing, 1.3 and carb do not.
5. Depending on fuel setup, you may also need a 2002tii brake booster. By far the most difficult part to find.

Lots of other smaller stuff, like upper timing cover, valve cover, intake manifold, modifying DPs to handle O2 sensors, etc.
I want to go motronic and just use that motor as is for the most part, or as close as possible.
I know I will need a e28 pan, mount brackets, I think I have the original e9 exhaust headers, not sure what this motor would come with as far as that, I think just whatever is in the photo. But I can always cut the pipes are re-weld them, thats not a problem. I want to find a 5 speed tranny for this car, not sure if an e28 one would work with the car on that one.
As far as fuel delivery, I was thinking the e28 fuel pump, mount it under the car & go with that.
Why would I need a different brake booster, clearance issues?

Thanks so much for all the help guys, I am not so tech savy so I am a little slow learning how to navigate the website. All the help is greatly appreciated.
 
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bimbill

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All your answers are here

When I did this installation on my car I searched this site for any references that seemed appropriate, i.e. 3.5 install, motronic 1.3, 5 speed swap, etc. etc. When I found a thread that looked helpful I bookmarked it. I also printed any comments that could be referenced easily while searching for parts.

While it is said that the 3.5 swap is relatively easy, "relatively" is the operative word. That said, once you get it installed and running, the 3.5/5-speed combination turns the coupe into a usable GT in modern traffic.

By the way, if you search sfdon and 3.5 you will likely find all the answers. I couldn't have done my car without this forum.

Good luck!
 

Rek

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I am nearly through this process.
One area where I might need some help is with the electrics. Has anyone got a guide for this?

If not it might be worth me writing one, after I have made the mistakes.
 

sfdon

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FI wiring for coupe

Step one... Pic 1
Remove tape at harness from firewall towards front of car 18"

Note the separate black plastic harness in the pic with 5 wires.
2 Black (starter)
brown/green (oil pressure)
black/red (cranking power to coil)
Green/white (power to carbs)

Cut the plastic harness leaving 1' of lead from firewall.
Pic 2

Green/white gets removed from fuse box inside of car.
Black gets connected to your new FI harness (black/yellow starter)
Brown/green gets connected to your new FI harness (oil pressure)
Black/red is removed from the car entirely
Black wire going to diagnostic plug is removed entirely.


From 5 wires we are down to 2
 
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sfdon

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Server error.. Can't post pics....

Try again tomorrow I guess.
 

sfdon

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Pic 1

Unwrapped harness and sheath
 

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sfdon

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Cut the sheath..

Pic 2
 

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Rek

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Thanks for this - I will start taking a crack at it.

Step one... Pic 1
Remove tape at harness from firewall towards front of car 18"

Note the separate black plastic harness in the pic with 5 wires.
2 Black (starter)
brown/green (oil pressure)
black/red (cranking power to coil)
Green/white (power to carbs)

Cut the plastic harness leaving 1' of lead from firewall.
Pic 2

Green/white gets removed from fuse box inside of car.
Black gets connected to your new FI harness (black/yellow)
Brown/green gets connected to your new FI harness
Black/red is removed from the car entirely
Black wire going to diagnostic plug is removed entirely.


From 5 wires we are down to 2
 
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