E9 engine and tranny swap

Rangertom50 said:
Thank you everyone. Specially Texas Pete. My E9 is now a 5speed. Now going for a new paint job.


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By the way if you have the cover that goes under the steering column I sure would like to buy it



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Rangertom50 said:
My name is Tom. I have a 1971 BMW 2800CS. Its has an automatic transmission that doesn't work. I want to swap in a manual transmission. I want to do it myself. Any step by step list out there that will help me do this?

I want to do the transmission first before anything else.
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Can we get together one of these days Chris. I'd like to see your E9


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I'm almost there Pete. My wiper is now working! Any hints or tricks on how to take off the trims and decals for a paint job?


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Aluminum trim is a 8 or 9 mm socket, quarter-inch drive is best. To get the door trim and the trim under the rear window off you'll have to remove the interior panels. Give me a call on Friday :)
 
Thanks Pete. So my E9 looks like it's slightly tilting upward. Front is a bit higher than the back. Not an emergency. But I probably can use new springs. Any suggestions?


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Tom,

Under the hood, where the front struts are attached, is there a 'spacer' between the chassis and the strut? It is about 1" thick. That was installed to meet Federal regulations for headlight height and maybe bumper height. If it is removed, the bolts will stick up higher into the area under the hood. I 'think' there is enough room there, but I cut part of the top of my bolts off when I removed the spacer.
 
Take a close up pic of the front strut tower (with the 3 nuts) and we can see if the spacer is still there
 
Unscrew the 3 cap nuts, jack the car up until the strut drops enough to reach up and remove it, then let the car down and strut back up, trim the bolts and reinstall the cap nuts.
 
Tom, you can do this one easy! Like Steve said, jack up the car so the tire is hanging free, when you loosen the bolts the whole strut will drop down so remove the cap nuts slowly and evenly or let the tire rest on the ground before unscrewing and then jack it up so the bolts clear the holes by about an inch. Reach up and remove the spacer. It's a good idea to brace the car, move the strut out of the way and clean and rust prevent the contact area. when re-lowering the car to re-bolt the strut it would be helpful to have a friend around to line up the bolts, it's easy but go slow. Also, while you have the strut separated from the body check the upper strut bearing for ease of movement or excessive wobble.
 
Also, I would strongly suggest the use of CN springs as Alan mentioned above and the Bilsteins with the 14 inch wheels. I have 2 different set-ups on two cars and the 14 inch wheels with the CN springs and Bilsteins is a far superior "comfort" ride than going with 16's and you have no clearance issues. I also think that within reason you can drive aggressively with the 14 inch set up. The 4 corners should run you between 800 and 1000.00 and if you bring your car down here I'll slap em in for you all for the price of dinner :) I also really like the BF Goodrich T/A Radial 205/60/14 with the lettering on the inside, they are soft but have really good grip, they're a little wider than stock but don't look like donuts.
 
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