Thanks
I am going to get the one Chris recommended it’s so small and the Jay Leno video sold me
I am going to get the one Chris recommended it’s so small and the Jay Leno video sold me
Engine Fire
- Thread starter foinsnap
- Start date
I bought a CO2 extinguisher for my garage as this type causes less mess and reduces damage to engine electrical components (in the unfortunate event it’s ever used) vs. Dry Powder type which is messy and slightly corrosive.
Apparently CO2 is good for fuel and electrical fires but if lots of plastics or materials start burning it’s not as good. However if used quickly/ immediately as fire ignites, eg like in a garage situation I think CO2 is best.
I also keep smaller dry powder extinguishers mounted in my cars for when out and about.
Apparently CO2 is good for fuel and electrical fires but if lots of plastics or materials start burning it’s not as good. However if used quickly/ immediately as fire ignites, eg like in a garage situation I think CO2 is best.
I also keep smaller dry powder extinguishers mounted in my cars for when out and about.
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Honolulu
Well-Known Member
Fire extinguishers have been the subject of significant discussion on this forum in years past. You can sit back and let others gather the information for you, or use the Search function.
I've been close to several car fires. Cars (and bikes) burn quickly! I was able to put out two of those fires before they "ran away" much to the relief of the owners (one of them is me!).
A friend's air-cooled VW bus burned so hot it melted the aluminum alternator support, that's over 1600 degrees. We believe it started with failure of the short braided hose between fuel pump and carb which we hadn't replaced when we took two engines and made one. His Liberty Mutual insurance policy paid him more than we'd put into the bus, and that was just peachy. I don't use braided hose any more.
My BMW K100RS caught fire under me and my wife. I finally figured out the fire stemmed from a common failure on the fuel tank which has a low point on either side of the main frame tube. Water gathers there and corrodes through, resulting (especially on the left side) a (pinhole if you're lucky) fuel leak directly over the nice warm cylinder head and spark plugs. I put the bike back together with Ebay parts and JB Weld on the tank and sold it, and my running bike (on which I'd already patched the tank)a for a decent price at the time; few regrets there.
And then there was a friend's supercharged Chevy 454 pickup... saved that one too.
I've been close to several car fires. Cars (and bikes) burn quickly! I was able to put out two of those fires before they "ran away" much to the relief of the owners (one of them is me!).
A friend's air-cooled VW bus burned so hot it melted the aluminum alternator support, that's over 1600 degrees. We believe it started with failure of the short braided hose between fuel pump and carb which we hadn't replaced when we took two engines and made one. His Liberty Mutual insurance policy paid him more than we'd put into the bus, and that was just peachy. I don't use braided hose any more.
My BMW K100RS caught fire under me and my wife. I finally figured out the fire stemmed from a common failure on the fuel tank which has a low point on either side of the main frame tube. Water gathers there and corrodes through, resulting (especially on the left side) a (pinhole if you're lucky) fuel leak directly over the nice warm cylinder head and spark plugs. I put the bike back together with Ebay parts and JB Weld on the tank and sold it, and my running bike (on which I'd already patched the tank)a for a decent price at the time; few regrets there.
And then there was a friend's supercharged Chevy 454 pickup... saved that one too.
foinsnap
Member
It seems this has turned into a fire extinguisher discussion. it's all good. 
An update...
JC Taylor's representative has contacted me and assured me, that since the car is under insured, that it will not be totaled and can pay up to the maximum of the insured value.
I've been in contact with Rennsport motorworks https://rennsportmotorworks.com/
Sal, the owner, is willing to take on the project. I had another discussion with him today, he mentioned that there is a dry ice blasting machine for parts cleaning, is anyone familiar with this ? He thinks this would be able to take the melted plastic off of many of parts. He is willing to make a house call, (I'm in the next town), to survey the damage first hand. he is concerned with giving the insurance company an accurate estimate, so I'm not on the hook for the remainder, any advice on this would be great.
@sfdon mentioned you have some wiring harnesses please contact me with more information. I saw Asutospark sells them for £1,692.36
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/bmw-3-0l-csl-coupe-left-hand-drive-wiring-harness-set
You guys are great.
Thanks !!!
Jeff
An update...
JC Taylor's representative has contacted me and assured me, that since the car is under insured, that it will not be totaled and can pay up to the maximum of the insured value.
I've been in contact with Rennsport motorworks https://rennsportmotorworks.com/
Sal, the owner, is willing to take on the project. I had another discussion with him today, he mentioned that there is a dry ice blasting machine for parts cleaning, is anyone familiar with this ? He thinks this would be able to take the melted plastic off of many of parts. He is willing to make a house call, (I'm in the next town), to survey the damage first hand. he is concerned with giving the insurance company an accurate estimate, so I'm not on the hook for the remainder, any advice on this would be great.
@sfdon mentioned you have some wiring harnesses please contact me with more information. I saw Asutospark sells them for £1,692.36
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/bmw-3-0l-csl-coupe-left-hand-drive-wiring-harness-set
You guys are great.
Thanks !!!
Jeff
I have not done dry ice cleaning but have looked into it. It seems that this method does a very good job but in th right hands can be much less damaging than any other sort of blasting media.
Interesting situation for you..... Both Autosparks and my local builder require a core harness to make a new harness for me. I send in used harnesses and get back new. The parts for the new harnesses only exist on original harnesses. You may be put in a position where you need a USED harness so that you can have a NEW harness. I assume your harness is toast. Post a pic?
I think I can sell you a new Autosparks engine only harness but I will no longer be able to have a core to send in- and that is a bad business model!
Or I can sell you a used harness. Not a great idea to install that..... Decisions.....
New Autosparks Engine Harness only-1500.00 plus shipping
Used good Core- 700.00 plus shipping
I think I can sell you a new Autosparks engine only harness but I will no longer be able to have a core to send in- and that is a bad business model!
Or I can sell you a used harness. Not a great idea to install that..... Decisions.....
New Autosparks Engine Harness only-1500.00 plus shipping
Used good Core- 700.00 plus shipping
Attachments
Intriguing, I assume they rely on the USED harness to match the lengths, cable gauge, and bundles, without actually reusing cables or connectors.
If that is the case, is it possible to order two NEW ones made to match one USED harness?
A twofer will solve the business model forever, we would have exponential harness growth, Moore's law for cables!
It's the conduit- no conduit... no harness!
I supposed we should have been scavenging these from parts cars for the last decade
Chris--Thanks for the info. I just bought one for the Coupe and one for the kitchen. There is going to be a car show in Ft.Lauderdale in a few weeks. The application for displaying your car included giving them your insurance info and verifying you have a fire extinguisher in the car. DrewThese are really handy.
Element - Fire Extinguishers
80% smaller & has 5x the discharge time of a traditional fire extinguisher. Makes no mess, requires no service and will not cause additional damage to any of your possessions.elementfire.com
Mine just got delivered as well.
foinsnap
Member
I sent a note to autospark.
This was their response…
This was their response…
Conduit? As in the sleeve that holds it together and perhaps crosses the firewall into the cabin?
I thought sourcing the connectors would be trickier than creating a conduit...
Let's unleash DQ into creating a DIY wire harness thread...
foinsnap
Member
Good luck working with Chelsea......
Heads up on the Autospark harness- the rubber boots will be wrong, right or missing.
Have fun with that. You will need to purchase new correct boots to replace wrong boots. You will need to purchase new correct boots that they did not install.
And you will need to buy new connectors to replace the connectors the you destroy taking the harness apart to reassemble correctly with boots.
When you are done with that is time to move the old relay connectors over to the new wires that they simply didn't do. Hint- get a big ass schematic like I use (2' x 3')
so you don't go blind and an ohmmeter with sound.
Pretty poor experience for me. My source in California delivers a complete harness.
BTW- I'm on month THREE asking Chelsea if I can just buy the interior harness........ She flat out will not acknowledge the question.
Have fun..
Heads up on the Autospark harness- the rubber boots will be wrong, right or missing.
Have fun with that. You will need to purchase new correct boots to replace wrong boots. You will need to purchase new correct boots that they did not install.
And you will need to buy new connectors to replace the connectors the you destroy taking the harness apart to reassemble correctly with boots.
When you are done with that is time to move the old relay connectors over to the new wires that they simply didn't do. Hint- get a big ass schematic like I use (2' x 3')
so you don't go blind and an ohmmeter with sound.
Pretty poor experience for me. My source in California delivers a complete harness.
BTW- I'm on month THREE asking Chelsea if I can just buy the interior harness........ She flat out will not acknowledge the question.
Have fun..
More info for the next guy.
Autospark wires are of course all white- the entire harness. Original harness has numbers. You can see where this is going
Next- the special 3 pin connector to the distributor does NOT come with the new harness- plan on grafting it on from the old harness.
Autospark wires are of course all white- the entire harness. Original harness has numbers. You can see where this is going
Next- the special 3 pin connector to the distributor does NOT come with the new harness- plan on grafting it on from the old harness.
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Unless the are daltonic why would they use a single cable color?
Anyway, a harness seems like the ideal project one would want to source from DQ with his obsessive attention to detail.
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Seems to me that a single-color wire could be less expensive. High-quality wire can be bought in bulk to get quantity discounts and reduce storage space and thus costs. Electricity don't care none about the pigments in the insulation.
Decades ago I needed to replace the ends of the wiring harness in my 1954 VW beetle. Fortunately, a local guy had a dozen '60s vintage beetles he was parting out so I could easily get a harness with wires of the correct gauge and color striping that I could use to make repairs to my original harness.
With that in mind, after I got my 2800CS, I bought a somewhat newer salvaged BMW harness from eBay in case I find the need to repair my 1970 harness. I may not get a perfect match, but at least they won't be white.
Back then I looked online for a while to see if it was possible to get wire with the correct color coding easily and it seems to be quite scarce. Solid color isn't hard to find, but at least here in the US getting wire with appropriate stripes isn't easy. I was told that BMW dealers had some, but not a large number of choices. I did not verify that.
Decades ago I needed to replace the ends of the wiring harness in my 1954 VW beetle. Fortunately, a local guy had a dozen '60s vintage beetles he was parting out so I could easily get a harness with wires of the correct gauge and color striping that I could use to make repairs to my original harness.
With that in mind, after I got my 2800CS, I bought a somewhat newer salvaged BMW harness from eBay in case I find the need to repair my 1970 harness. I may not get a perfect match, but at least they won't be white.
Back then I looked online for a while to see if it was possible to get wire with the correct color coding easily and it seems to be quite scarce. Solid color isn't hard to find, but at least here in the US getting wire with appropriate stripes isn't easy. I was told that BMW dealers had some, but not a large number of choices. I did not verify that.
and more….
when you get your Autospark harness in the mail, it will up to to you to figure out where in the main relay and cold start relay blocks those 9 loose white wires belong.
when you get your Autospark harness in the mail, it will up to to you to figure out where in the main relay and cold start relay blocks those 9 loose white wires belong.
For electronics I have used multicolored ribbon cable as a matter of course. In production you can use gray as they are connectorized and you never need to debug stuff. For lab use you could go crazy without color ribbon cable. What AWG does a harness use? Could a festoon ribbon cable be considered:
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