Because the motor sat upright, correct?
Engine Removal
- Thread starter Bav3.5
- Start date
Luis. I am about to remove my engine from my e9. It currently has an auto tranny and I want to swap to a 5 speed and repaint the engine bay at the same time. I read your method above with great interest.
My situation is very similar to yours in that I am doing it in my garage without a lift. Based on what you say, I get the impression that, after having pulled the motor on an e9 from both the top and the bottom, it seems that you end up saying the bottom method is the "best/easiest"? With a couple of years of hindsight, do you still believe that to be accurate? Is that what you would recommend? I am trying to remove the engine and tranny together as it might be easier and cleaner to remove the auto one when they are out of the car.
Thank you.
My situation is very similar to yours in that I am doing it in my garage without a lift. Based on what you say, I get the impression that, after having pulled the motor on an e9 from both the top and the bottom, it seems that you end up saying the bottom method is the "best/easiest"? With a couple of years of hindsight, do you still believe that to be accurate? Is that what you would recommend? I am trying to remove the engine and tranny together as it might be easier and cleaner to remove the auto one when they are out of the car.
Thank you.
Bo, As I rethink both ways if doing it, no doubt that for me doing it from below is not only easier but less stressful since I can more easily control fitment and tweaking as the car comes down than having that 500 Lb lump wanting to hit something on the car while I run from side to side and the back of the crane. Also requires less garage ceiling height. In addition, not having to remove the hood, a 2 person job (hard for me to get a helper) and not having to realign the hood, especially on a coupe, is a huge bonus for me.
Have to say there is zero reason to remove the hood.
I've never removed a hood and never touched a hood removing an engine.
I've never removed a hood and never touched a hood removing an engine.
Great info Luis, thank you.
And how did that HF ATV lift work out for this job? On the surface it looks like the perfect helper for this method.
Great to hear that. Thanks Don.
Haven't done on it on an E9, but E34, wasn't bad from the top:
One more question: When dropping the engine and subframe from the bottom, where is the best place to separate the steering column from the steering box?
Thank you.
Thank you.
That is the hardest part, you separate at the small u-joint which a bear to loosen.
restart
Well-Known Member
Top or bottom...the endless debate. Both ways are fine, whatever you feel comfortable with. If you go out the bottom you can use the cherry picker to lift the car, instead of the jacks. it's not heavy without the engine and tranny.
Pulling that lump out the top stresses me out. Ymmv.
Pulling that lump out the top stresses me out. Ymmv.
Bo, regarding the HF ATV lift, it is perfect for this job and other lifting jobs. Since it has two skids as a lifting surface, you'll have to place and bolt to it some sort of platform. The other thing that I recall is that it takes care and attention to control its descent at a slow rate. Be careful or it can drop 2 inches when you really only wanted 1/2" as you are checking clearance, etc.
Restart: Yes the cherry picker works well to pick up the car but with a low garage ceiling and not wanting to lift by the dainty Euro bumper makes that not as as simple a proposition.
With the E3 when lifting the engine back in, the steering arm hydraulic actuator that sits on the subframe was extremely close to the body and presented a challenge of accuracy. In fact, the E3, and I don't recall, maybe the E9 too, has a cut out at the sheetmetal where it sits, and that tells you it's pretty tight. If there is a way to drop it in or take out before the engine move, it might be easier, but I don't recall this being a challenge on the E9.
Restart: Yes the cherry picker works well to pick up the car but with a low garage ceiling and not wanting to lift by the dainty Euro bumper makes that not as as simple a proposition.
With the E3 when lifting the engine back in, the steering arm hydraulic actuator that sits on the subframe was extremely close to the body and presented a challenge of accuracy. In fact, the E3, and I don't recall, maybe the E9 too, has a cut out at the sheetmetal where it sits, and that tells you it's pretty tight. If there is a way to drop it in or take out before the engine move, it might be easier, but I don't recall this being a challenge on the E9.
Thank you Luis.
Bwana
Well-Known Member
You've just inspired me to a Rube Goldberg of sorts. How about a "crane" with A-frames on each side of the car with a cross beam on top between them and a chain fall to lift the body? If so, can I use the shock tower mounts from the top with a spreader bar as the pick up points? And yes, serious consideration will go into overall strength and lateral stability.Top or bottom...the endless debate. Both ways are fine, whatever you feel comfortable with. If you go out the bottom you can use the cherry picker to lift the car, instead of the jacks. it's not heavy without the engine and tranny.
Pulling that lump out the top stresses me out. Ymmv.
restart
Well-Known Member
A good hook in a beam with a pulley to a modified front sway bar? or grab it up front from somewhere in the valence?That kind of puts the hood in the way tho.
restart
Well-Known Member
When lifting from the shock towers was mentioned it just seemed a strut brace would be handy. Just thinking out LOUD...
That's the way I did mine. Works great!