Make a bar like Bill did and rest it on the top of the frame rail on passenger side.
Front Main Seal replacement questions (M30B30)
- Thread starter vanbavaria
- Start date
bavaria
Well-Known Member
BMW had 2 special tools for this job, a crank holder that bolted to the front hub and a puller
that would pull the hub after breaking the 36mm nut loose.
that would pull the hub after breaking the 36mm nut loose.
Cool, at the end of the day like Chris and bill suggested I should be able to fab some sort of crank bracket/brace up at my shop.
Already having the gasket set coming so projects in the works.
bavaria
Well-Known Member
Is the engine in the car? If so you will want to fab a tool that rests underneath
the left frame rail so length is a consideration.
the left frame rail so length is a consideration.
Yes Chris already suggested this.
Oldbmwcoupes
Well-Known Member
Be prepared to really put some force on it even with a huge cheater bar. Putting the car in gear won’t help. It will just want to move or spin the tires in low gears (ask me how I know, ha ha). It feels like you broke something when it comes loose. This is the biggest obstacle to that job.
Oooo I’ll take that along with the exhaust header too please.
Bit of a drive from Vancouver
appreciate the idea though.
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That would make life easier then having to fab one up to bad the eBay add says the seller isn't available till may 12 and that they don’t deliver to Canada. Very unfortunate.Crank Pulley Securing Bar 112150 for BMW | eBay
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Hmm pelican offers the same tool though
But I’m not sure about the fitment.
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thats what I used. It took about 30 seconds of rattling the impact before it broke free
If I can fit my impact in there I’ll be giving that a try first.
If not pelican wants $200cdn after shipping for that crank brace. I’ll just save the money and make one myself.
i used to do this on my vw rabbits. breaker bar, braced against the ground, and bump the starter a couple times. always worked
-Started the front main seal project yesterday, easy enough to take the belts off the PSP and ALT then move the PSP out of the way.
-in order to loosen the crank pulley hardware i ended up removing the access panel off the transmission bell to get to the torque converter mounting bolts. I then through my 17mm socket and wrench in place to stop engine rotation.
-pulleys then pried off crank hub no problem
-there’s our leak
-at this point I can understand the need to remove the hood and radiator in order to have enough room in there for the 36mm beaker bar and crank hub pulley
- I also thought this was a good opportunity to finally remove and delete the A/C condenser because I deleted the A/C pump years ago
-lots of room now
-today ill be working on the crank shaft brace bar to help break that 36mm nut
-in order to loosen the crank pulley hardware i ended up removing the access panel off the transmission bell to get to the torque converter mounting bolts. I then through my 17mm socket and wrench in place to stop engine rotation.
-pulleys then pried off crank hub no problem
-there’s our leak
-at this point I can understand the need to remove the hood and radiator in order to have enough room in there for the 36mm beaker bar and crank hub pulley
- I also thought this was a good opportunity to finally remove and delete the A/C condenser because I deleted the A/C pump years ago
-lots of room now
-today ill be working on the crank shaft brace bar to help break that 36mm nut