heater hose direction

The 041 one that goes from hose heater to underneath the manifold. Send me a PM and let me know if you have one and total
 
oh, W+N has the hose ... but of course that means high shipping and UPS tariff. the problem with BMW - NA is that getting parts for a euro car is difficult ... you have to prove that you own it, etc. and they don't stock them here.
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oh, W+N has the hose ... but of course that means high shipping and UPS tariff. the problem with BMW - NA is that getting parts for a euro car is difficult ... you have to prove that you own it, etc. and they don't stock them here.
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Yes that’s what I had found - was cheaper to buy from overseas eBay seller who will ship in a day and I’ll have it end of week. Weird that other hoses are available, not this one.
 
its funny, i had all 3 different heater hoses in that one place 041 (injected), 180 both + 603 (carb). i remember, i bought extras in case i need them or parts to try to work in a heater bypass. still haven't figured that out.
 
Well, that was exactly my problem too - I had tried to do the heater bypass and so had cut the one extra that I had had. In the end the car was overheating and I worried that the hosing was being kinked and limiting flow so I'm going to remove the diverter for now and just route in the original way. Figure I should make sure I can have the car running appropriately and then can monkey with it. I at least already have the wiring for the diverter in there so it's just a hose issue I'd need to resolve. I'm not sure how to go about it - the hose coming from the back of that cylinder head needs to travel along the firewall and then normally just bends right into the heater inlet. For the diverter it needs to bend 90 degrees towards the front of the car, go out about 4 inches to clear the diverter then make a 180-degree curve to enter into the diverter. There's a long thread (which I think you had also posted in) about this modification, and looking back through it it looks like @Stevehose may have nicely posted the info I need to create this setup. I'm going to get the car running and then in the meantime can work on this. Nice part is that just like Steve I can create this out of the car to make sure it will fit and then disassemble and put it in.
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If you hook up the heater hoses the wrong way round does that mean the heater works backwards? Easy way to get AC without all those pesky parts!
 
oh, W+N has the hose ... but of course that means high shipping and UPS tariff. the problem with BMW - NA is that getting parts for a euro car is difficult ... you have to prove that you own it, etc. and they don't stock them here.
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I have bought tons of Euro parts from the dealer. Never had to prove ownership or do anything special.
 
If you hook up the heater hoses the wrong way round does that mean the heater works backwards? Easy way to get AC without all those pesky parts!
Man I wish. In my case it means a car which begins to overheat. Although to be fair; that wasn’t hooking them up wrong that was causing a kink in them.
 
You know, reading this thread reminds me that somewhere along the way, some of us began to question if we even needed all those hoses redirected. I mean that diverter valve has 4 inlets/outlets and I am not certain all this re-routing is necessary. I cannot find the discussion where members joined in on this, but there is a possibility to simplify the plumbing in this exercise and therefore minimize hose kinks. Perhaps someone recalls such a conversation.
 
My car has a simple shutoff valve. I recall reading that there was no issue with just stopping the flow through the heater, versus the complicated bypass approach. I agree 4 house connections seems like a bit of a mess. When the heater valve is turned off, the flow is blocked anyway, so it doesn't seem like it is necessary to bypass it
 
In general I agree with you, and I will see whether I end up putting it back in. In a non-ac car in the summer will be the question.
 
My car has a simple shutoff valve. I recall reading that there was no issue with just stopping the flow through the heater, versus the complicated bypass approach. I agree 4 house connections seems like a bit of a mess. When the heater valve is turned off, the flow is blocked anyway, so it doesn't seem like it is necessary to bypass it
+1 - I also have installed just a shut-off valve, not issues with that setup. I have one that is controlled with a switch from the center console.
 
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Here on the east coast our drives can get very cold without the heater in the late fall or early spring (road conditions permitting), while also needing to reduce heat transfer in the summer with the humidity that comes with summer heat. A diverter valve has made a huge difference in easily controlling the cabin temperature.

While complex, I would worry about keeping head temperature regulated, the downside is too much.
 
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