Here again for a bit of help...

dang

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Points that are barely opening can also cause poor running and backfires. They "bounce" and/or break the circuit at the wrong time.
 

Neoparoykos

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Did any of the tests you performed from the #7 post result in any fixes? If so, which and what was fixed?

Have you ever removed the distributor or loosened the clamp at its base?

Are you sure the plug wires were put in the new cap in exactly the same position as they came out?
All of the tests suggested above provided the correct results indicating that nothing was faulty. I believe what was happening was that the points were in fact grounding due to the square style grommet. I replaced it with the old points that include the round grommet to prevent the grounding. I adjusted the points to ensure that I was not getting voltage when the points we're open while still having a gap of .014".

I haven't adjusted anything on the distributor aside from changing the points, rotor, and cap. I do notice that the rotor aligns in a different position on the clock compared to the rotor that was on the car. I believe the rotor that was on the car is a rev limiter type, larger and bright red. The replacement unit I received from BMW is a darker red/ maroon and smaller/ slimmer.

I checked and rechecked the plug wires to ensure the correct firing sequence. The number one wire on the distributor should be approximately at 1 o'clock correct?
 

HB Chris

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If it is backfiring you have spark but either you moved the distributor or swapped the plug wires. Get it to Top Dead Center and see if the rotor is pointing towards the line marked on the edge of the distributor with cap removed and go from there. Rev limiting rotor and no limiting should have the same configuration, they don’t point differently.
 

Neoparoykos

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If it is backfiring you have spark but either you moved the distributor or swapped the plug wires. Get it to Top Dead Center and see if the rotor is pointing towards the line marked on the edge of the distributor with cap removed and go from there. Rev limiting rotor and no limiting should have the same configuration, they don’t point differently.
Thank you, Chris and others! Going to try this now. Praying the battery doesn't die first.
 

HB Chris

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There is a mark on flywheel and front of crank on the harmonic balancer but easiest way is to remove valve cover and see if line on pulley lines up with oil sprayer bar. The crank turns twice for one revolution of the cam but just make sure cam lobes are pointing down at 5:00 and 7:00 on piston #1. Firing order is on the valve cover, trace each plug wire to the cap to make sure in the correct order.
 

Dick Steinkamp

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All of the tests suggested above provided the correct results indicating that nothing was faulty. I believe what was happening was that the points were in fact grounding due to the square style grommet.
If the tests showed nothing was faulty, then why would you think the points were grounding??? o_O
 

dang

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I've been going through similar issues with my E3. When I started having obvious ignition problems I put known good parts on from another engine (in your case it would be the original parts) and started over. Everything, including the points/condensor. Change one component at a time and test until all the parts are changed. If you don't have good diagnostic tools it's best to stay simple and do a process of elimination.
 

Neoparoykos

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There is a mark on flywheel and front of crank on the harmonic balancer but easiest way is to remove valve cover and see if line on pulley lines up with oil sprayer bar. The crank turns twice for one revolution of the cam but just make sure cam lobes are pointing down at 5:00 and 7:00 on piston #1. Firing order is on the valve cover, trace each plug wire to the cap to make sure in the correct order.
I just installed a new valve cover and gasket so I will try to remove it as a last resort. Is the timing mark that is on the timing cover at approximately 10 o'clock?

Here also is what I was referring to regarding the rotors. When I install one rotor it points in One Direction. When I remove it and install another rotor it's pointing in another direction.

IMG_20200608_194950461.jpg
IMG_20200608_195013116.jpg
 

Neoparoykos

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Both rotors are pointing in exactly the same direction.
Right you are. Egg on my face.

Regarding your question, when I was doing the last step in the sequence described above I was sometimes getting 0 volts and sometimes 11.7. I could see that it had to do with both the ground and / or the points being open when I thought they were closed. Needed some adjustment.
 

Neoparoykos

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It is also obvious now that the distributor did in fact rotate. I didn't recognize this. Trying to get the car to top dead center without removing the valve cover and then align the distributor.
 

HB Chris

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Removing valve cover is the easiest route, gasket will be fine. The timing mark on the cam pulley will be right under the spray bar. Find the mark in the dizzy and turn it until they line up then tighten dizzy. The engine sits at an angle, pretend it sits upright, cam lobes will be at 5 and 7.
 

Neoparoykos

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Removing valve cover is the easiest route, gasket will be fine. The timing mark on the cam pulley will be right under the spray bar. Find the mark in the dizzy and turn it until they line up then tighten dizzy. The engine sits at an angle, pretend it sits upright, cam lobes will be at 5 and 7.
Well hell, if this is the proper position of the leads on the distributor cap than I see my issue (at least partially).

Distributor.PNG


I assumed "1" started at the top. When this didn't work I rotated them all one space clockwise.
 

Stevehose

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yes sounds like your plug wires are not in Zundfolge order or your timing somehow got way off, is your distributor loose?
 

Neoparoykos

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yes sounds like your plug wires are not in order or your timing somehow got way off, is your distributor loose?
Yes, it was more loose than I realized. I never attempt to adjust it or move it at all. Only replace cap, rotors, condenser, and points. In this process I suspect I moved it off timing.
 

Stevehose

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you'll have to put your engine at TDC. Pull the plugs and rotate your enigne until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the notch on the timing chain cover, the "TO" ball is visible in the timing light window on the flywheel, and the rotor points to #1 cylinder (there is usually a notch on the distributor too). This is important because it can be 180 degrees off if the rotor is pointed at #6. Once these are lined up turn the distributor counter clockwise a little and tighten down and it should start. then set the timing by the book.
 

Neoparoykos

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you'll have to put your engine at TDC. Pull the plugs and rotate your enigne until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer lines up with the notch on the timing chain cover, the "TO" ball is visible in the timing light window on the flywheel, and the rotor points to #1 cylinder (there is usually a notch on the distributor too). This is important because it can be 180 degrees off if the rotor is pointed at #6. Once these are lined up turn the distributor counter clockwise a little and tighten down and it should start. then set the timing by the book.
Thank you, Steve(?). I'll give this a shot along with other advice received. Appreciate you all.
 
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