Here again for a bit of help...

Neoparoykos

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If it is getting into the head (or anywhere else for that matter) it will go straight to the bottom of the pan. Oil floats on water.

Was there actual water/coolant in the head...or just the milky oil on the inside of the valve cover?
Definitely milky oil on the inside of the valve cover and oil cap, but I thought I saw some in the head as well. The lack of consistency with this issue is making me question myself. I'll put some new oil in and run it through and see how it turns out. Would be wonderful if it is not a bad head gasket.
 

Neoparoykos

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Well, oil is changed and I went for a fairly long ride. Car is seeming to have some overheating issues, but isn't showing any foreign fluid in the oil. It didn't seem to overheat so easily prior to, but it maybe needs a new water pump and thermostat? Also weirdly the throttle seems to be sticking and the car will bog from start. A stab of the throttle will get things going but it certainly takes a moment. Considering doing the carb tuning myself.
 

E3_UK

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Did you get the dwell and timing set properly using a dwell meter and timing light ?. There is no point adjusting carburation if the ignition isn't set correctly. Ignition first then carburation is always the rule.
 

Neoparoykos

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Did you get the dwell and timing set properly using a dwell meter and timing light ?. There is no point adjusting carburation if the ignition isn't set correctly. Ignition first then carburation is always the rule.
Timing is set correctly and dwell by feeler gauge. I do not have access to a dwell meter.
 

Dick Steinkamp

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I think it's great that you are wanting to learn how to service your Bavaria by yourself. It's always been a fun and rewarding part of the hobby for me to learn and do. However, when you are starting from scratch in the learning process (which it sounds like you may be) it is best to work with and learn from somebody who already has the expertise you want. It is possible to learn from a manual, but there will be lots of additional questions, trial and error, and the lack of a thorough explanation of why things are done the way they are. There is also the possibility of breaking more than you fix :(.

Find or make a friend that has the needed experience and technical skills to necessary for the tasks you want to learn how to perform. Most "car guys" are glad to help and actually get a charge out of helping others along in their learning. Another alternative is to find a professional mechanic that knows these old cars (points ignition and carburetors) that will let you work alongside him while he explains what he is doing and why and will let you help perform the tasks.

Did you get the dwell and timing set properly using a dwell meter and timing light ?. There is no point adjusting carburation if the ignition isn't set correctly. Ignition first then carburation is always the rule.
I agree with E3_UK. Most carburetor problems turn out to be ignition problems. If the car ran cool and didn't bog during acceleration, then the problems probably have something to do with your tune up.

Buy a dwell meter. They are about $40 and can help with other electrical problem diagnosis too. You've already saved more than that by not needing the gasket set, head surfacing and other expenses that would have been required to remove the head. You will save even more by not throwing new parts at your overheating problem (again, if it didn't overheat before the tune up, the water pump and thermostat probably haven't coincidently failed).

Set the point gap with your new dwell meter. This is an iterative process and can be somewhat frustrating, but it is next to impossible to gap the points correctly with a feeler gauge.

Time the engine correctly. Both the overheating and bog can be attributed to timing problems. Warm it up. Disconnect and plug the carb side of the vacuum lines at the distributor. Turn the idle screw until you have 1700 RPM on your new dwell meter. Set the timing at 22 degrees advance using the proper mark on the flywheel while shining the timing strobe through the "window" in the bellhousing. Reset the idle screw to the recommended idle speed with the vacuum hoses reconnected.
 
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Neoparoykos

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Thanks for all the help, input, and support thus far! It has been quite a trying episode, but I think things are beginning to resolve.

I spent most of the day today with another Bavaria owner working on the carburetors. Using a manometer we synchronized them and adjusted to what seems best using the Haynes manual (sorry it's all I got and seems to be very well detailed). The only issue I seem to still be having is when the car is at very low speed, in reverse or creeping forward, the RPMs drop so low that it stalls or nearly stalls. It performs wonderfully under other conditions. I know Dick may get on me about failing to use a dwell meter at this point, but I seem to be getting by without it.

Any thoughts on that issue?
 

Neoparoykos

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confirmed timing is correct and accel pumps functioning?
Timing was spot-on when completed last weekend. I will likely check again now that the carbs are synched (though I know it wouldn't have changed).

I am less sure about the accel pumps. How can I check/ adjust those?
 

Neoparoykos

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Trying to resurrect this a little. Cars running pretty well besides bogging from a start. Not sure what this could be as from what I can tell the carbs are adjusted properly. Maybe I shouldn't think that though because it seems to be running very rich based on the exhaust smoke/ smell. Is there something that could be causing it to run rich that isn't related to the carbs? Recall that all the ignition system has been replaced. EGR system? Not sure...
 
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