Horn Pin Holder and Shock Tower Reinforcements

Continued, I guess I ran out of room

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The car is not ready for the welder yet, so welding pics to follow
I'm very pleased with the fit and finish and do not need to worry about my shock towers anymore
Again, thanks to Steve and Hal for starting this design and finding Andrew at intellectioncnc.com.
 
This project is coming along nicely! A friend of mine has already made a couple of sets of these for me. He made to them to Steve's original configuration with my improvements. With machine time and material the cost was $135 a set. These would be inexpensive insurance to carry in your coupe just in case or use immediately if needed. Please PM me to order one of these sets.
 
Continued, I guess I ran out of room

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The car is not ready for the welder yet, so welding pics to follow
I'm very pleased with the fit and finish and do not need to worry about my shock towers anymore
Again, thanks to Steve and Hal for starting this design and finding Andrew at intellectioncnc.com.
Are there pics of the finished project? I would like to know how the cap is welded to the cut-down tower. Thanks, Drew
 
Bill--Will the new machined caps be welded to the shock tower on both the inside and the outside of the existing tower? Thanks, Drew
 
Drew

I was told that welding the outside would be plenty strong but I will discuss with the welder if he thinks
4 one inch length welds every 90 degrees would be doable and beneficial on the inside of the tower.
I worry 2 complete circumferential welds on the shock tower (both inside and outside) may unnecessarily weaken the tower

Bill
 
I do not think one could weld from the inside- too tight to get a torch in there.
I know I couldn't...
There are right-angle TIG torches that would reach up inside with no trouble. I'd think it would be prudent to alternate the inside and outside weld segments to spread the stresses around.


Ian
 
Others have welded a full circle on the outside, and that should be, and has been proven by the ones already driving around, to be strong enough.
Welding, if done right, is stronger then the steel around it.
 
Others have welded a full circle on the outside, and that should be, and has been proven by the ones already driving around, to be strong enough.
Welding, if done right, is stronger then the steel around it.
Indeed, this is an isolated body part so it really isn't critical how it's welded as long as there's sufficient material to take the loads. However, welding in the middle of a beam or panel can have consequences if overdone as the steel will expand while hot and somewhat plastic and then will shrink as it cools, putting a lot of stress on the steel. This is why welds are often done in small sections rather than one full run and body bracing is very important to minimize distortion.
 
Are these the ones?
If so then i have 4, they are identical to the part on my column. I don't need em...
Eric

I'd like one of these horn plunger parts, if you still have any available. My plunger part has failed internally, which makes the horn sound intermittently when ever I turn the wheel more than just a bit. How embarrassing! And, pulling the horn relay is but a quick fix, and will leave me without a horn. Keeping my fingers crossed....

Gary
 
That has to be the slickest repair I've seen on shock towers. D*mn fine welding.

Assuming you did both sides, how was it done so that the car rides evenly right to left?
 
We're in between traveling to Mid-America '02 Fest (simply the best vintage BMW event in the US!) and The Vintage next week, but I wanted to introduce a couple of parts I've been working on. (We'll be driving the '74 Mintgrün to The Vintage with the tent for the 2002 Forever Chapter so please drop by and say hello.)
As many folks have discovered when they removed the steering wheel and did any work in that area, the horn pin holder self destructs if even gently touched. So I designed a much more robust holder that uses a commonly available horn pin and can be 3D printed. I'll probably just give the stl file to anyone with a 3D printer, but could also sell the complete unit if someone needs it.
The other part is a rear shock tower reinforcement that is based on the original design by Steve Hose (@Stevehose). I've added a few refinements and have had a CNC pro who was mentioned in the thread below make the first pair for testing.

I don't have time to say much more right now but will keep everyone updated this summer.
Stay well,
Hal

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is this for front shock tower or rear, will be very nice if you explain
 
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