Ignition switch "mating"

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Laldog

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I'm attempting to install a new (to me) ignition switch and ran into a problem when I "test fit" the switch into the ignition cylinder. (see pic)

No amount of fiddling and twisting (and cursing) can get the 2 parts to mate properly together. Given the delicate makeup of the switch, I really hesitate to put much force on the switch.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks in advance
 

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There is only one way the little dog teeth match up to each other, it is somewhat subjective but try and line them up as best as possible before putting together Also make sure that there are no burrs inside the cylinder They are tight

Thanks, Rick
 
Hi,
the proper German curse would be "Scheisse"!
There are two different type of locks with different key switch, barrel and ignition switch.
The early type is the short key switch, the later type is the one with the long key switch.20250329_082736.jpg
The backside of the barrel for the long one
is shown in the centre along with it's ignition switch on the right20250329_082009.jpg
The mounting position is coded, short and long type are different.
If you have the wrong ignition switch you may cut the small "nose", but not the one which holds the small locking screw.
Also make sure that the key is the right position to allow the ignition switch to slide in.
 
That’s great info Tom. I have to get into this shortly on my switch

In my case the electrical part (black plastic part) fell apart when I touched it… little copper piece fell out. Have no idea how to deal with this but it’s obvious from your description that I have to get the stuck piece out and it doesn’t sound like it’s going to be easy.
 
So today seems to be "ignition switch day".
Try to get out the small screw and use a small plier to pull out the switch.
To determine which ignition key switch is installed examine the lock, they look different 20250329_132334.jpg
Short one on the left, long one on the right.
 
Laldog said:
I'm attempting to install a new (to me) ignition switch and ran into a problem when I "test fit" the switch into the ignition cylinder. (see pic)

No amount of fiddling and twisting (and cursing) can get the 2 parts to mate properly together. Given the delicate makeup of the switch, I really hesitate to put much force on the switch.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
There are several forum threads touching on this subject. See, for example: https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/ignition-back-switch-fit-issue.40878/
https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/ignition-switch-key-cylinder-no-start.36233/
https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/how-to-deal-with-the-clausor-and-ignition-switch.23593/

Your image depicts threads that would ordinarily accept a grub screw that secures together both units. Does the threaded portion of your switch line up with the grub screw threads in the mating case? If it does not or you are unable to complete your jigsaw puzzle, you have the wrong part and might implement a workaround.

Note that there is a registration pin or a protrusion that aligns the two mating parts. As I understand it, various BMW models employed similar switches, but as noted by other posters, there are differences, including the placement of such a registration pin. (Pay careful attention to the images of the pin's position with the grub screw threads - below.) Should you determine that your replacement switch has a registration pin that does not line up with the mating case, you could file the pin off. However, before even considering that step, determine whether the grub screw threads on the switch will align with the mating case threads. Another important determination is whether the elimination of the registration pin and alignment of the grub screw threads will still permit the proper movement or rotation of the mechanism to properly engage the ignition switch. Sadly, all of this is easier to demonstrate than describe. So, it might be easier to locate the proper switch that fits your application.

There are, as they say, numerous ways to skin a cat. I am reluctant to mention this, but over the years I have observed a few E3s that probably experienced an ignition switch failure - where the keyed locking mechanism is left intact, with the addition of an auxiliary start button spliced into the switch wiring. It is debatable whether a start button is a backward step or an improvement. Another workaround was to attach a remote starter switch to an original under-hood diagnostic port, if it still exists after five decades.


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https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/ignition-switch-key-cylinder-no-start.36233/#post-305996
cdcc1d82-297b-42f2-8f52-4f9c721a8616-jpeg.106921
 
Laldog said:
I'm attempting to install a new (to me) ignition switch and ran into a problem when I "test fit" the switch into the ignition cylinder. (see pic)



No amount of fiddling and twisting (and cursing) can get the 2 parts to mate properly together. Given the delicate makeup of the switch, I really hesitate to put much force on the switch.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...


Your pic shows no grub screw,
Your pic shows the protrusion to be 3mm
Most likely your switch does not match with the clausor, pin at 90 or 147deg
No way,
Wrong switch for your clausor
 
Laldog said:
I'm attempting to install a new (to me) ignition switch and ran into a problem when I "test fit" the switch into the ignition cylinder. (see pic)

No amount of fiddling and twisting (and cursing) can get the 2 parts to mate properly together. Given the delicate makeup of the switch, I really hesitate to put much force on the switch.

Any ideas or suggestions?

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...



@bengal_taiga Showed you the way, my thread about this has good pics

deQuincey

Thread 'how to deal with the clausor and ignition switch'

there are some details about this that i would like to share, it is not only about the








...
  • Like


Read and see what is in there
 
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