installing bilstein 24-008136 rear shocks on a e9 car

[bimoverde]

I received the holstein front shocks 24-08136 that i ordered for my cs coupe. They seem to be about an inch shorter. Should i use the rubber mounts and brackets that come with it or should i replace the original upper rubber bushings that were with the original shocks and use those(they are available from Roger 's tii)?
Can someone comment on what is best. Since the shocks are shorter , when the car is lifted the upper bushings should be under more pressure..

 

[HB Chris]

Are you referring to the strut bearings? You don’t use the old foam absorber on the original shock.

Sounds like rear shock based on that part number.

 

[bimoverde]

yes i am talking about the rear shocks. On the original shocks the upper rubber pushing is pressed on from the onside of the trunk...

 

[HB Chris]

Ah, your first sentence said front shocks. Carl Nelson advises using the e3/e12 cone shaped bushing with a large washer. Stevehose used this technique.

 

[Stevehose]

Yes, easy to install and supposedly braces the shock tower weakness. Doesn't matter that the shock is shorter, it will all equal out when on the ground, perhaps even a little higher than stock.

 

[bimoverde]

sorry got confused here..thanks that is very helpful.. i will try with the new bushings i ordered from Roger's..they look very similar and use the big washers that come with the shocks..
can you forward me karl nelson posting/

 

[HB Chris]

It was not posted here, I spoke to him recently. Post a link to Roger’s for comparison.

Edit: found it

 

[bimoverde]

do you have a reference number or a source for this bushings?.i probably should get them just in case.. not much fun taking theses things apart in the first place,..

 

[HB Chris]

Probably the same bushing, it’s a BMW part. Carl uses a large washer like I posted around the narrow waist to reinforce the shock turret in the fender, I bought two sizes at Ace Hardware but haven’t done this yet for a friend’s coupe. Remove the metal sleeve inside the bushing and then stick into the turret, makes it easier, then reinsert the metal sleeve.

 

[bimoverde]

thanks all this is going to really help.. as soon as i get this bushings i will be off to Ace

 

[HB Chris]

I think the larger one will work best, you need to make sure the bushing sits all of the way into the turret.

 

[bimoverde]

both front and rear holstein are in..thanks for all your help..

 

[HB Chris]

Did you use the largest washer?

 

[bimoverde]

yes i did..used the correct rubber bushing a wagon top of the shock before fitting it under the fender and a washer under the nut(that is for the rear...

 

[bavbob]

Copy of my old posting:
So how much for the rear rubber mounting for the Bilstein B6 ???

Dealer charge is 35 dollars or so, part does not come with the kit that comes with the Bilstein B6 rear shock for the E9.

I spoke to someone at Bilstein who was massively helpful. Kits for the 2002 that have the #11 rubber mounting we need, cannot be purchased separately in the USA...but a kit that comes with a Bilstein for a Dodge has the exact bushing we need (#10 in the Dodge kit is 25mm so cannot be used since we need 28mm).

Part number is E4B46276 and listed on Summit racing site for $3.88. Bilstein says that Summit should have it
(I have not tried to purchase, Bilstein was nice enough to send me two).

Just thought this would be good info for all of us.

 

[Luis A.]

Ah, your first sentence said front shocks. Carl Nelson advises using the e3/e12 cone shaped bushing with a large washer. Stevehose used this technique.

Chris or Steve, After reading several of these rear shock threads using the larger E3/E12 top tower rubber bushing w/ washer, I'd like to confirm that it gets placed with the smallest diameter part of the bushing facing up, thus placed from the bottom, inside, of the tower.

Correct?

I'll be soon getting under there to replace my Bilsteins with something without a gas charge to avoid what I feel is too strong of an expanding/rebound action of the spring/shock assembly. And I really like the idea of passive reinforcing by using the large washer to distribute the load.

 

[HB Chris]

Yes, it faces up

 

[Stevehose]

Yes, and when you tighten it down, the washer expands the rubber out for a tight fit over the tower. Hope your towers are reinforced!

 

[Bmachine]

@Stevehose and @Luis A. : In the thread below, you seem to indicate that you went along with what @Sven and @deQuincey were suggesting: Putting the wider end of the bushing at the top. Therefore installing the bushing from the top (inside the trunk) instead of from the bottom. Just like in the schematic above, part 11. Did you change your mind and do it the other way for some reason?

Which way does the rear shock bushing go?

Wider end topside or other way around? Seems like the wider side should go below to keep it from popping through the tower hole from forces below but parts diagram shows wider side is on top side. What say the experts?

e9coupe.com

I have to say that when using that big Carl Nelson washer, it would make it a lot easier to slide it on the collar of the bushing first and then push the narrow end of the bushing with the washer already installed from the bottom. Instead of pushing the narrow end down from the top and then having to try and slip the big washer onto it from the bottom inside the shock tower.

 

[Stevehose]

@Stevehose and @Luis A. : In the thread below, you seem to indicate that you went along with what @Sven and @deQuincey were suggesting: Putting the wider end of the bushing at the top. Therefore installing the bushing from the top (inside the trunk) instead of from the bottom. Just like in the schematic above, part 11. Did you change your mind and do it the other way for some reason?

Which way does the rear shock bushing go?

Wider end topside or other way around? Seems like the wider side should go below to keep it from popping through the tower hole from forces below but parts diagram shows wider side is on top side. What say the experts?

e9coupe.com

I have to say that when using that big Carl Nelson washer, it would make it a lot easier to slide it on the collar of the bushing first and then push the narrow end of the bushing with the washer already installed from the bottom. Instead of pushing the narrow end down from the top and then having to try and slip the big washer onto it from the bottom inside the shock tower.

Sorry, I don't remember what I ended up doing, my pea brain is drawing a blank