Interesting CS on ebay

Markos

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It looks like the tube is welded at the arrow, if so, I hope the one who did it knew what he were doing, there are quite a bit of force going through there while braking. I'd much much prefer a bent tube, or a straight pipe/rod.
And something looks fishy where the steering rod is attached to the steering knuckle.

That control arm is just wonderful :) I like that rather than making an entire new arm out of tube, they just welded mild steel to cast iron. I know folks weld mild steel to cast iron (especially with 4x4 axles), but why fabricate half a control arm?

For what it is worth, I believe that Max or someone else made subframes for the S54. The front end looks very fixable to me but it is an indication of build quality. Engine fire anyone?

@bdigel doing it right...
001.JPG
 

dang

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My guess is that the geometry of the suspension points and steering is wrong. A friend is a fabricator and specializes in drag cars. He says he sees the wrong geometry on cars all the time since so many cars are modified. He redesigns the mounting points and the customers are completely amazed how well the cars track and steer afterwards.
 

teahead

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Ya, big challenge converting to R&P steering; converting from a rear-steer to a front steer arrangement. All the angles needs to be dialed-in. Otherwise, you'll get a turning radius like an aircraft carrier, and massive bumpsteer.
 

bdigel

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Yeah I suspect trying to use the e9 arms with the rack and a few other things is what has it all jacked up. Id have to see it in person . But I suspect Bumpsteer is way off , along with a few other things , Also wonder if the subframe is in the right location . not sure why they modified e9 control arm instead of trying to put in the e36/e30 style stuff ?
Not to get real nit picky ,, why have photos of your jewel engine swap and have the damn thing covered in mud ??
Now you guys know why its taking me forever to do the "Mad max "project
 

Bavman

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Wondering about rack conversion, why go to front steer?

Thanks

Al
 

Bavman

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gonna start a thread on the project forum, looking at E21 or Alfa Alfetta GT/GTV6...I know nuthin bout bumpsteer etc so someone needs to learn me.

Thanks

Al Taylor
 

rsporsche

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if anybody is contemplating placing a bid on this coupe, one word of advice - ask for a picture of the VIN on the firewall. apparently there is lizard skin everywhere on this coupe - underside and inside - the trunk, the interior and the engine compartment. proceed with caution until you see the VIN that matches the ad + title. I am not saying its bogus or anything sinister ... just that it cannot be easily verified. you might also not easily be able to verify how well the rust replacement has been done.
 
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coupeguy

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I am the one who had a friend inspect the car, and I actually got the seller to talk briefly on the phone. He said the process is taking too much of his time so getting info directly from him has been very difficult. His own words were it was a NY car and it had a lot of rust. They did not replace panels like the rockers, they patched everything, rockers, doors, quarters, fenders, etc. The inner fenders were bad enough to have to replace completely. Underside of the hood shows red around the edges of the inner hood and many chips on front fenders show white paint, don't know original color but it wasn't black. Worst part is there is no vin visable, vin plate is missing, vin stamped in the firewall either has been ground off or has an eighth of an inch of bed liner covering it, nothing on the steering column cover or on the dash front edge where it meets the windshield. I asked the gunk be removed to show the vin but owner is out of town until next week so don't know if it will happen. Bed liner in heavy coats like the car has all over is very hard to remove, nothing but something like Aircraft Stripper will probably touch it and there is a lot to remove. All that stuff in the trunk probably covers surface pitting. So really no telling when the rust will start popping out on the paint with so many patches. There really is bedliner everywhere, even on the inner floors and the surface of the firewall, behind the glove box and fuse box door which is missing. Heavy scratches in the paint on the top along with all the rest would indicate to me a full repaint will be necessary, to do it right of course a full strip to find all the bondo.

Front steering/suspension has been covered on the forum and confirmed by my friend as being really appallingly done with the rack and pinion unit being in the wrong place. Its really pretty in the pics as are most cars on ebay, and the interior is leather and very nice other than the deletion of the wood, not sure what they replaced it with. Console does nothing for me but that's just my opinion, and my overall opinion is stay away unless you have a lot of time and skill or just a lot of money. Or buy it, fix the steering and drive it as it is, not the first heavy handed resto mod done to one of our ever diminishing supply of coupes. The seller doesn't honestly seem stupid enough to try four different mechanics and sinking $90k into the car, but he does sound a bit slippery. He did refuse to drive it anywhere for a ppi so my friend had to go to where the car was stored. A drive was not allowed, no plates or insurance or some such excuse. Listened to the engine on the phone and its really silent, he was able to drive it back and forth in the garage so drivetrain might be alright, but if you possibly can see the car for yourself and try to get him to let you drive it. Good luck, all.
 
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coupeguy

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I wonder if the seller got the message from the inspection that you have to have the vin on the firewall to make the car legitimate since he took the auction down. Or perhaps someone without that knowledge made him an off ebay offer. Wasn't me.
 
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