nah we can talk you through this too, it's not rocket scientryI have a 123 on the shelf that I've been hesitant to install. The process seems to be above my pay grade.
Intermittent sputter and die
- Thread starter mtiger_dds
- Start date
I decided to recheck the coil, and when I pulled the coil-distributor wire it came apart. Could it be this simple? My previous luck in life says no, but maybe it's time for a fresh start lol!
Yay! No need to look at fuel at this point.
Turn the key and without starting the car- test for voltage at the coil.
Answer is?
Next - pull coil wire from distributor cap- lay the bare end right next to unpainted metal and crank engine.
Answer is?
Turn the key and without starting the car- test for voltage at the coil.
Answer is?
Next - pull coil wire from distributor cap- lay the bare end right next to unpainted metal and crank engine.
Answer is?
Sounds like points or condensor
So you have spark from the coil? When my Chamonix wouldn’t fire after I replaced everything but points which looked good, it started after I replaced the points. The fuel filter will never have more than a tiny amount of fuel in it.
I'm a little confused.
You report no spark at a spark plug when cranking with the plug grounded to the engine , BUT you get a spark from the coil wire when you crank and hold the coil wire a short distance from ground. This is strange. It does mean the points are working properly. You would not get a spark out of the coil wire if the points were not making and breaking. You should then get a spark at a plug unless the rotor is missing or the plug was bad or not actually grounded. It is best to do these spark/no spark tests with a helper or a remote starter switch. It's tough to do and see otherwise.
I'd repeat the coil wire test with the new coil wire. If you are still getting a spark there, re-do the spark plug test. You can do it with an extra spark plug or with a screwdriver as @JFENG suggests. Again, I'd be surprised if you still get a spark at the coil wire and not at the plug.
Hopefully, you get a spark at both. Next, dribble a few tablespoons of gas into each carb throat with the throttles held open. Try to start. It should pop some and maybe even run for a few seconds. If it does you have a fuel delivery problem. Do not start replacing more parts at this point. We need to find out which component is bad.
You report no spark at a spark plug when cranking with the plug grounded to the engine , BUT you get a spark from the coil wire when you crank and hold the coil wire a short distance from ground. This is strange. It does mean the points are working properly. You would not get a spark out of the coil wire if the points were not making and breaking. You should then get a spark at a plug unless the rotor is missing or the plug was bad or not actually grounded. It is best to do these spark/no spark tests with a helper or a remote starter switch. It's tough to do and see otherwise.
I'd repeat the coil wire test with the new coil wire. If you are still getting a spark there, re-do the spark plug test. You can do it with an extra spark plug or with a screwdriver as @JFENG suggests. Again, I'd be surprised if you still get a spark at the coil wire and not at the plug.
Hopefully, you get a spark at both. Next, dribble a few tablespoons of gas into each carb throat with the throttles held open. Try to start. It should pop some and maybe even run for a few seconds. If it does you have a fuel delivery problem. Do not start replacing more parts at this point. We need to find out which component is bad.
I think I goofed. No spark at the plug. I mistakenly pulled the wire from coil to condenser and laid it on the manifold. That gave a spark. I did not try the actual ignition wire from coil to distributor.
I put everything back to original aside from the new coil wire. Battery is fresh.
It still cranks but does not fire.
I do not have spark at the plug.
The new coil wire contact is recessed in the boot. Can I lay it on top of something with a screwdriver nearby to test the coil?
Thanks for all the help and insight thus far- it's really appreciated.
It still cranks but does not fire.
I do not have spark at the plug.
The new coil wire contact is recessed in the boot. Can I lay it on top of something with a screwdriver nearby to test the coil?
Thanks for all the help and insight thus far- it's really appreciated.
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I dropped the underside of the steering column to check the ignition switch. Looks like mine is coming apart.
Attachments
My ignition switch was in two pieces and likely held together by the harness and the bottom cover of the steering column. Dash lights were going crazy as I fiddled with it so I pulled the battery. A small copper piece also fell from the switch as I investigated- I'm hoping this bad switch can explain the intermittent running issues as well as the strange results of the recommended testing.
A new switch will be here in a few days.
To make things more fun, a previous owner wired in a start button off the ignition switch. See attached.
A new switch will be here in a few days.
To make things more fun, a previous owner wired in a start button off the ignition switch. See attached.
Attachments
Awakening this dormant post because my car is alive!
Once I found the original ignition switch was toast, I replaced it with part #61321366107. The car would still crank but not turn over to start. I was still getting intermittent spark and no fuel. Furthermore, the switch would not fully seat in the housing in the steering column due to the plastic lip at the outer end of the can.
Going back to post #22 and the broken wire from the coil to distributor- the new replacement wire was also junk. The new wire was from a Karlyn/Bremi kit. Once a second new wire was installed, the car fired right up.
To address the ignition switch, I found part #61321355701 has a metal housing that was more of a direct replacement for the original switch.
Had a pleasant 30 minute drive home- glad to have the car back, and once again, thanks for the advice in this thread!
Once I found the original ignition switch was toast, I replaced it with part #61321366107. The car would still crank but not turn over to start. I was still getting intermittent spark and no fuel. Furthermore, the switch would not fully seat in the housing in the steering column due to the plastic lip at the outer end of the can.
Going back to post #22 and the broken wire from the coil to distributor- the new replacement wire was also junk. The new wire was from a Karlyn/Bremi kit. Once a second new wire was installed, the car fired right up.
To address the ignition switch, I found part #61321355701 has a metal housing that was more of a direct replacement for the original switch.
Had a pleasant 30 minute drive home- glad to have the car back, and once again, thanks for the advice in this thread!
So satisfying when a problem is finally solved!
Congrats! Thanks for reporting back. What did you end up doing to correct the no fuel issue?
I pulled the sender and cleaned the screen. Fuel lines were all good. I also have a new sender on hand just in case this one ever goes.
Unfortunately, the triumph was short-lived. I took my son out for some celebratory ice cream after his soccer game tonight. Just as we were approaching the driveway at home, the car (and all interior lights) died and I had smoke coming out of the steering column. Obviously a short. I disconnected the battery and will leave it outside tonight and will investigate in the morning.
Unfortunately, I found the new ignition switch harness wrapped around the steering shaft. The friction went through the insulation, shorted it out, and melted the harness plugs together.
I did notice some odd resistance in steering on the way home last night, but didn't hear any noise from the suspension or power steering. This explains it.
I left a voicemail with the shop last night and I'm waiting for a call back.
I did notice some odd resistance in steering on the way home last night, but didn't hear any noise from the suspension or power steering. This explains it.
I left a voicemail with the shop last night and I'm waiting for a call back.
