Is my engine really at TDC?

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Today I removed the Pertronix and put points back in. The car ran much better but I have very high idle even when the idle stop screws are backed out all the way. (Webers). Not sure if I have a different distributer in there but the plastic piece that covers the distributer shaft lobes sat very "low" and the Pertronix has a plate to lift the -whatever you call it- piece, but mine looks like it needs to be lower-not higher. I'll keep trying until I get it right- I can't see having someone else tune my car after everything I've done that miraculously does work. If anyone has a picture of how their Pertronix fits under the cap I would be grateful!

 

[David]

Hi Peter
Ill be with mine over the weekend and ill try to grab a photo. Regarding the idle, do you have a carb synch tool ? Using a synch tool I was able to get my idle to around 800. It's still a little rough and I hear popping out the exhaust but that synch tool was really helpful.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

David, I have a friend with a carb-mate, I'll try that next, I went through the complete process a couple of weeks ago, I thought I was on the road to perfection, then the car died. I let it sit for 10 minutes and it started (not hot at all), then I started at the beginning, found a bad plug, replaced all,etc, etc- just scratching my head at this point.

 

[sfdon]

Mark your position and then move your cap 10 degrees counterclockwise and take the car for a drive.

 

[sfdon]

Peter- a timing light is only used to find the general area of where your car will run best.
No good shop sets the timing by strobe and walks away.
Try turning the cap both directions by hand!
Some of the flywheels came with 3 marks- TDC, idle and 2200rpm
You really need to hand align the cam, crank and flywheel ring gear and identify the timing marks. Each tooth is a little over 3 degrees- make sure your crank and cam are aligned then look at the flywheel and identify the mark. Move the gear 3 more degrees and look for idle mark, move the gear 4 more teeth and identify the mark.
I use brake cleaner at each area and then apply a dab of silver paint to make it easier to see

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

Thanks Don, I found a raised rib on the front cover that looks to lign up with the crank damper at TDC, my engine is still pretty clean so the marks are easy to see. Crazy that such a seemingly simple thing should cause such confusion but it would be fun if it were not preventing me from enjoying the coupe. I figure I'll get it right some how-soon I hope. Then it's just kick-starting the air conditioning and ....road-trip! Anywhere There are some beautiful drives outside Austin TX!

 

[David]

Peter,
Here are photos from my Petronix install.

 

[David]

Pulled the Bosch Platinums out this weekend and installed NGK BPES6 gaped at 0.030. Also put in a new rotor. Small improvements, but still doesnt sound right to me

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

OK, Forum question; does the black ring on the Pertronix look like it is riding too low? The instructions in the box gave me the impression that both black pieces should be basically "centered". Also, David your rotor looks much "smaller" than mine, mine is more triangle shaped, was your old rotor bigger? what's the difference/purpose?

Evenings are lovely in Austin, I'm getting restless :-(

 

[David]

I dont really recall if this rotor is any different. The Petronix went in years ago.

 

[ohio2800cs]

OK, Forum question; does the black ring on the Pertronix look like it is riding too low? The instructions in the box gave me the impression that both black pieces should be basically "centered". Also, David your rotor looks much "smaller" than mine, mine is more triangle shaped, was your old rotor bigger? what's the difference/purpose?

Evenings are lovely in Austin, I'm getting restless :-(

Peter,

I installed mine last year (bought at La Jolla), ring and trigger seemed to line-up pretty nicely. Although not completely certain without looking at it again, the trigger box didn't extend much above the top of the plastic ring piece

This was the rotor that was on my car when I bought it.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

That's exactly the way I envisioned it should be, not sure if it makes a difference, but I will check with La Jolla today. We're finally getting some rain so coupe feaver is lower. Thanks for the pictures. Still looking for the red button that says "run smooth with more power"- Maybe it's written in German?

 

[Stevehose]

Mine comes up about halfway and works fine, not sure how the rotor would fit otheriwse?

 

[deQuincey]

Pulled the Bosch Platinums out this weekend and installed NGK BPES6 gaped at 0.030. Also put in a new rotor. Small improvements, but still doesnt sound right to me:

i will say the sound can probably be improved david, i will try to post a video of my sound so you can compare
but not having a pertronix system i can not help very much

now a question: i would like to ask the experts about the aspect of my own spark plugs, what do you think about these sparks (1,2,3...,6)



can you tell from the aspect any fault on burning, or,...i feel they look very much the same

thanks

remark: david, can you post a pic of your sparks ?

 

[sfdon]

Booked a flight today to Austin.
Let me know if you are available
for a visit on August 7th!

 

[David]

These plugs have about 50 miles on them. Front carb mix screw is just under 2 turns out (about 1.875), rear carb mix screw is 3.5 out. Sounds like a big difference, but they are synched as good as I can get them. Time to look at the jets I think.

 

[Peter Coomaraswamy]

David, did the synching address the "popping"?

 

[Stevehose]

If your jets are the same, then an idle mixture screw out that far is compensating for something, typically an air leak. Regarding the secondary barrel - seems like a reading of 3.5 is high, should be closer to zero at idle. But maybe that's a Weber thing?

 

[David]

David, did the synching address the "popping"?

Somewhat. It is better. Click on this to hear the idle:

http://s627.photobucket.com/user/david91107/media/E9/IMG_1342.mp4.html

 

[David]

If your jets are the same, then an idle mixture screw out that far is compensating for something, typically an air leak. Regarding the secondary barrel - seems like a reading of 3.5 is high, should be closer to zero at idle. But maybe that's a Weber thing?

I wondered about what the carb-synch reading should be. I can say that Ive sprayed carb cleaner everywhere and I cant detect a leak. Maybe its subtle. I plan on putting in throttle shaft bearings I bought at Ireland to see if that helps.

I need to check the jetting. It wouldn't surprise me if they were different. I just have that kind of luck this year.