Is possible to buy a new 15A overcurrent switch?

Krsysztof - I would grab those from frogisland. Even if you find the electrical parts, you are going to need the plastic mounting hardware he is offering.

I checked my three favorite US electrical component suppliers - Digikey, Newark and Mouser. They all carry the 2-5000s, but none of them have stock.

If you search for the 2-5000 in Newark, they reference the 2-5700. They have four 2-5700s in stock.


From the data sheet, they are the same size and electrically similar. The 5700 lack the manual release, so you have to push to release and then push to reset. And the 5700 is designed to mount using a nut over a threaded shaft around the button. Nonetheless, it appears to me that the 5700 will work in place of the 5000, assuming you can get it mounted. (and per the data sheet, ATE makes a mounting plate). Data sheet is here:

https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/56051.pdf

Thanks for great summary.

I'm analyzing the situation already as my project is sleeping and waiting for it's time and my better knowledge.

So far I have only manual and fix rear which is lightweight and stress-free solution. Still not fully decided if I will go with electric ... Have plenty of time.
But if I would be able to find original NOS or New 2-5000 that would be perfect.

Regarding the type I'm more for "original look", so I would rather wait or buy used 2-5000 rather than 2-5700 but this is opinion for today. I need to rethink it.
Thanks to You I have "something" to consider. Great help!
 
I would like to thank you @frogisland (Jason) for sending me 8A switches and frames free of charge!

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Here is the new model Chris has mentioned:

And I found the 15A fuse at W&N:
 
Can you remind me what these do? I have (well, I had) one in my car in the under dash panel, and i just came across it when untangling and re-wrapping my harness on my kitchen table.

They've been implemented for facelift E9s as over-current protection (motor stall or short) for electric windows option.

They've been located (2pcs for front and rear) over right knee in the under-dash/kick panel.

Later E23/E24/E12 reuse them further (1pcs used only).



Next models were using single button-like with electric window logo.
 
I had just one of these switches. Is that then because I having only rear electric windows, and fronts in my car are manual ?
There for only a single fuse?

Funny thing is that my wiring harness does have the connectors present but taped shut in the lower A-pillar for electric front windows, but it has only wires and connectors for a single fuse (breaker switch).
 
Front and rear are separately protected which makes sense from electrical point of view and options assembly in the cars.

Not sure what the wiring options were for E9, year-specific. I would not be surprised 3.0 or CSi version might have most of the wired available, ready to connect. In the end it was just a business calculation based on statistics/volumes of the cars. I would also expect visible difference between US an non-US version. Not only due to different lamps (incl. side markers) but also equipment (A/C being very popular in US while difficult to find in EU cars).

I know, based on E30 model there were only few wiring variants, so for higher models (like 325i) it was much easier to add any equipment (as most of body wires/plugs where available) than for 316i which has almost no wiring.

This is interesting topic about wiring versions. Would be great to have it investigated in tidy form. I'm curious how it will look like for 2.5CS which was poor-man's version among other E9s, where most of these cars have only manual front and completely fixed rear windows. Maybe someone was having such wiring from such a car produced 1974/1975, to see if there are some additional equipment preparation plugs and wires. It might be the wiring for electric windows is tied in, waiting to be used. :)
 
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