Jabberjaw on ebay now

Hey there d-ace...Heads up for you- the picture you keep posting is the "Before" picture.
The "After" picture is the one with the new Stainless Steel exhaust and all the new undercoating, the welding, suspension, steering components and the new bottom paint.
I understand your concerns if all you have seen is the "Before" picture.
Good eye and good luck with your project.

Sfdon
 
It’s no big deal it was just a few ask why it was not removed and then a few changed to questions about why I removing the original undercoating on my car that was very questionable to me and set things off a little. It’s pretty obviously why removed if any indication of rust is on the outside of this rubber coating this is a good warning of what is on the other side between the rubber and metal. Basically from what I have seen over the years it’s like an iceberg in the ocean you only see the 10-15% above the water and the monster is below.
I never seen the finished bottom although since you know about what was done on the car just to ask again was the OEM white synthetic rubber coating removed before the new undercoating was done?
 
Funny thing about that white coating- it comes off in sheets with a pressure washer.
My best recollection is of the underside of the car being prepped before new coating being applied.
Keep in mind I work on 10 cars a month and that car was 1 1/2 years ago.
Take a look at the photo album for some clues maybe?
Have you decided to paint your car before trying to sell it again?
How much is the quote from the shop in Arizona to finish the job as a Turn-key effort?
Again- good luck to you.


Don
 
Quote
“sfdon”
Funny thing about that white coating- it comes off in sheets with a pressure washer.
My best recollection is of the underside of the car being prepped before new coating being applied.
Keep in mind I work on 10 cars a month and that car was 1 1/2 years ago.
Take a look at the photo album for some clues maybe?
Have you decided to paint your car before trying to sell it again?
How much is the quote from the shop in Arizona to finish the job as a Turn-key effort?
Again- good luck to you.
Don

Maybe a pressure washer works on that white coating on an American CS it did not work for me on Euro cars 3.0CSI, (2) 635CSI. Its very thick 1/8” inch for the heavy weather in Europe snow and ice plus salted roads. I had a high-pressure 250-degree temperature steam-cleaner when I was restoring the CSI. The kind they use for taking the painted lines off roads here in California it sound like a Jet Plane taking off when you fire it up, it did nothing on CSI for removing that white coating. Only a propane torch and scraper.

That’s the one thing about doing 10 cars a month your on the clock and time cost money, when I was doing the CSI I had all the time I wanted.

About painting the car?
I have all the paint needed and color I was going to paint it, bought it in AZ (not CA. paint) when I when to the world Jet Ski finals last time. The problem is if I sell it the new owner may want to paint it a different color. It is setup for finish paint now, just no finish paint for now.

How much is the quote from the shop in Arizona to finish the job as a Turn-key effort?
It is all up to how much the new owner wants to do.
Basically, show car top-of-the-line “Barrett Jackson” paint job even an interior color change using good paint “not California water base paint” and all molding polished, bumpers redone, glass, dash put back in $7,000. Interior, if leather seats (stock was only vinyl ) about $1,000-1,200. Like I said its all up to the customer and on how they want to do it..

Quote
“pj”
yep every lowered coupe has those scrapes, price of good handling .

Try “Heavy Duty Bilsteins shocks” great on a dip not to bottom-out and they make your BMW turn tight corners like a UFO.
 
d-ace said:
Quote

Basically, show car top-of-the-line “Barrett Jackson” paint job even an interior color change using good paint “not California water base paint” and all molding polished, bumpers redone, glass, dash put back in $7,000. Interior, if leather seats (stock was only vinyl ) about $1,000-1,200.
Click to expand...

The least expensive place I found to do seats in leather is $2K, carpets and dying door cards to match is even more. Chrome is much more expensive now as well, figure on $800 for front bumpers and guards at least for high quality chrome. Need new bumper rubber, add more money. And don't forget the chrome under door/side windows, window trim, side drip channel trim, etc. Polishing/clear coating belt trim only is around $350. Adds up really quickly! $7K won't cover all of these items but would probably cover a great paint job. Just one perspective though.
 
Well we all have our perspectives and in the next few days I will have a written quote. Although what would be the point of showing it to you your not interested in the CSI anyhow.
The main reason I have looked in Nevada and Arizona for a full or partial restoration and customization paint shop is mainly due to the water base paints California shops are forced to use. And to my surprise the prices are 50% – 60% cheaper than California shops.
It sounds like some shop really worked you on prices, chrome, “polishing/clear coating” or call color sanding and many other things you mentioned are included in the $7,000 price. And $800 for a front bumper chromed that’s a real joke I was told $300 for the real deal chrome both bumpers but Euro bumpers are small. Try south central Los Angeles Florence avenue there are some of the biggest auto shops around last year I picked up a re-chromed bumper for my 1982 El Camino for $75 and they are big bumpers.

It’s all up to who buys the car for seat material. Original was Vinyl although leather seat kits have been talked about and price on here before. The last time I talked to the shop I have worked with for 30 years it was $975 front and back seats plus armrest.

I have seen you talk about a shop in Pomona you work with the owner quote $18,000 to finish the CSI a customer ask him to check out. When he saw all the parts I had he wanted to buy everything but he was weird.

I knew if I mentioned the finish price on here it would be a problem but was asked too.

With the prices I am seeing now days for work and parts on these car I really wonder what the cost of structural restoration I have done would cost now. A few years ago a California body shop owner checked the CSI out and said between $45 to $55K.
 
new owner

I've been busy the past week or so and haven't had time to post but have been interested in the continued thread on this car. In short, as many here have pointed out....a car is worth what someone is willing to pay for it...or the price at which you would never sell bc it's worth more than that to you. Fortunately for me I was able to get this car at a price that I feel is fair. Presently I am fixing some rust/painting a taiga csl and trying to do it to a very high standard and frankly its a pain. It's such slow going and very expensive to do it right...with no bondo/filler and lead repair work where needed and new parts from W&N for the rockers etc. The interior is nice but not perfect and needs a little work on the seats. I don't need "restored" car if it's already in good condition. Iseriously enjoy the patina of an original car (aka my ceylon coupe)..and even if only the interior is mostly original I'll keep it that way on this taiga. The trim and bumpers are nice and only need polishing and i'll replace the seals where needed. Then onto the engine...which probably doesn't need a rebuild but I'll pull the engine and do what's necessary and tidy up all parts as needed then paint the engine bay. Anyway, it's costing a small fortune and I'm sure I'll be into the car more than it's worth (what i'd be able to sell for) but i'm not selling.

My original ceylon is awesome to drive and I do get it out some but I'm worried about being hit or getting a rock in the windshield etc...so I thought I'd find something to drive more regularly and not be afraid to upgrade/modify. Well, when this came up I did some quick math and realized I couldn't reproduce this for anything close to what I paid for it and I love the look. I'll keep the taiga csl and ceylon cs stock...and enjoy the ceylon csl after I put back the original scheel interior. But Jabberjaw, as it's known, will be driven.

I'm sure I made another dumb financial decision but I'm no good at playing the market and at least I understand this kind of silver and gold and green$.
 

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The smart money jumps in after the cars get restored...

Keep in mind that Alvin never included the 6 months of his life he spent on the restoration when he said how much he spent.

Congrats!

sfdon
 
sfdon said:
The smart money jumps in after the cars get restored...

Keep in mind that Alvin never included the 6 months of his life he spent on the restoration when he said how much he spent.

Congrats!

sfdon
Click to expand...

Thanks! And thanks for all your great work. Can't wait to drive it.
 
very nice!
you definitely have to change your signature now... unless as nicad suggests you're still looking for more.
congrats.
 
I think you made an awesome investment

(1) You saved yourself a lot of money
(2) You got a special/unique and highly desirable car
(3) You can drive it instead of your other E9's

Sounds like you came out a winner all around!

John
 
Thanks

The time savings really can't be over estimated. I'm 6 mos into the taiga repair and not even close to done. Not sure I could do this again without just turning over to pros like you guys. So I consider myself lucky to get this car that Alvin put so much time into.
 
What are you going to do with the Taiga coupe?

Now that you have what many consider to be the ultimate drivable coupe, are you going to finish the Taiga coupe, put it into storage, sell it as a project ...

John
 
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