Lan-rear windows, motors, and trim panels - regrease and renewal

deQuincey

Quousque tandem...?
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renew all this rear area

you can see the critical elements to be removed marked with arrows

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anotar las conexiones del motor y soltarlas

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before undoing these last bolts use the electric power to completely open the window to manipulate it and to remove it folded

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then you should remove the glass, it will be difficult due to the fact that the glass and the rubber and the metallic plate had glued one to the other, a sharp and long blade and you cut the rubber (new rubber elemnts needed)
the two red fixing bolts are only accesible from the "back" side, and there you find access dificulties because the metallic suport is there, you will have to manually operate the mechanism
 
remove the moving element:

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clean the rails, gears,...
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remove the gear box to clean the pinion, regrease with LMgrease, and close it again, clean the spring with gasoline and grease it to protect it

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here you can see the stop bumpers, they are defining the open / close position of the window

renew if necessary

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Thanks for sharing that info. Amazingly clean hands for working on old greasy parts. Do you employ a hand model? <G>
 
Nice, more detailed than the blue binder.

Note: Keep track of the positions of the long and short bolts that hold the whole mechanism in the car
 
a question

adding relays to the electric circuit, but adding something else: "a breaker"

I will carry on the same upgrade that "stevehose" explained so well some months ago. This is the schematic drawing of the power motor windows electric upgrade inlcuding relays, the source is the "stevehose" thread on this issue:

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I plan to go one step beyond, knowing that in year 1974 a breaker circuit was added to the power windows, this was part number: 61131358777 (available at BMW dealer nowadays), I plan to add this breaker to avoid overtension in the motor operation

My question is if the following schematic conection is correct for the breaker, do you think so ?

my idea to introduce a breaker in the 12v positive cable:

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do you think it is correct ??
 
DeQuincey:

I added relays to all of my coupe's window motors, and it made a huge difference. My schematic looks just like the first one you posted.

My only comment on the second schematic - the one that adds the circuit breaker - is that having both a fuse AND a circuit breaker - seems unnecessary. More components generally means less reliability, more electrical resistance, and more clutter. I'd keep it simple, and just use either the breaker or the fuse.
 
DeQuincey:

I added relays to all of my coupe's window motors, and it made a huge difference. My schematic looks just like the first one you posted.

My only comment on the second schematic - the one that adds the circuit breaker - is that having both a fuse AND a circuit breaker - seems unnecessary. More components generally means less reliability, more electrical resistance, and more clutter. I'd keep it simple, and just use either the breaker or the fuse.

thanks
 
need this part, not the rubber, the other one

hi, do you know a source for the part arrowed in red ?

BMW references (left and right) : 51 36 7 740 130 and 51 36 7 740 131



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this is the external chrome line that includes the weatherstrip, you can see that the weatherstrip consists of two parts:

one rubber strip arrowed in blue (this part is available in BMW and W&N)

and one textile covered hard strip, I do not know where to find this, can you help ?

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My understanding

is that piece is felt and riveted. I haven't taken that part off yet so again that's my understanding. I beleive Arde briefly described it in a post. If that is the case, felt weatherstripping can be had in varying thicknesses, etc. It's commonly used on doors of the architectural type.

I also recall there have been discussions ( HBChris?) that either Coupeking or LaJolla had an alternate seal . So might want to try them by email.

On your side of the pond, Orangener might have a source to share.
 
I made my own with straight felt strips that I cut so as to bend and then pop riveted in place. Any auto Upholsterey shop will have it although I used MB felt. Coupeking sells a one piece replacement.
 
glass rubber parts

The rear window glass is supported in a moving element that holds it with two bolts in fixation holes, in order to support the glass correctly and in order to avoid breaking it, a rubber part and two bushings are needed

both of them are NLA, so I have to handmade the parts

this is the rubber cover part, thickness 1,4mm, you can see also a deformed bushing in the top right corner
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I use a new band of material, unfortunately is is 1mm thick, but i think it will work
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the bushing is a problem, NLA, and very difficult to find a similar thing, it aims at avoiding the bolt strenght to break the glass
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i will use a rigid plastic tube, but as the diameter is bigger than needed I will do some rework:
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I cut it and remove some of it´s length until it fits in the hole
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now i have to install the rubber part.
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impact glue, see the new rubber corner part, this is available
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seems good
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compare with the previous situation:
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trim panel

the trim rear panel is in very bad condition, I assume that the moist had affected the material, so I will make a new base part and re-upholster it using the old cover

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deQuincey
Nice work and great detail! Does your car need a headliner? I'm hoping it does so I can get some tips : )
 
update, in spanish, sorry, I will translate in the future

my rear shelf was not original and poorly made, so i had to remake it

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i have inlcuded some holes for airvents to improve the closing of the bonnet

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I gave a "latex" coat to avoid moisture inside the material

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