Lan-rear windows, motors, and trim panels - regrease and renewal

window upper carrier

to remove simpli use a flat screwdriver
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new part is available in w&n, by meters

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to install simply push the clamps
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window weatherstrip, nice arrangement

to improve the water tightness, remove the chrome part, by means of the front screw

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then push upwards
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to remove the weatherstrip, you must drill the rivets
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the rubber part is available at bmw or w&n, the felt part is NLA, so after some search I found an alternative

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it is an aluminium plate covered in a apropriate textile
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it fits very well into the rubber part

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i will start from one corner
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and go one by one drilling, plus riveting
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then to cover the round part I must make small cuts to allow bending the part
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looks good
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motor mechanics update

some details about the mechanism

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clean with gasoline and regrease
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this is very important: this little textile band avoids contact between glass and the bar of the mechanism

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here you can see how close the window passes
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la raya azul representa el cristal, se puede ver como el contacto en la tela blanca evita el contacto señalado con la flecha roja
 
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new stops and glass assembly

nuevos topes de fin de carrera:
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para montar el cristal primero montar la pieza de goma de esquina en el carro portacristal, el motivo es que hay que encajarla en las dos zonas indicadasen la foto:
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se pone el cristal y se atan los tornillos a traves de los agujeros que se ven en la foto, hay que poner el carro arriba
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vista exterior, comprobar que los tornillos no sobresalen
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he repuesto tambien el junquillo del borde que apoya contra la chapa, esta en walloth

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tambien he hecho las exteriores, aqui lo dificil es combinar la pieza de fieltro con la pieza de goma porque como no estan marcados los agujeros en el fieltro pues hay que ir avanzando poco a poco

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vista general de los lamelunas y sus soportes

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aqui tambien se ve el tratamiento sobre la madera, piel y cromados
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Post

a video of the spark plug on the bench being installed.:grin: Or at least tell us what size socket fits!
 
a video of the spark plug on the bench being installed.:grin: Or at least tell us what size socket fits!

HA, HA, HA

it is an original spark plug from the "start trek´s enterprise", yeah, noone told you but it was an odd otto engine !

bought it on ebay from a guy who´s nickname was something like "philoxe":idea:
 
lets go to the electric part

so following the ideas of jmackro, and using the writing of stevehose, this is my particular way of doing it:

i will use hella relays in twin bases:
.
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detail of the conections marking the relay terminals, see the arrangement of the diodes
.
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this is the detail of this particular diode conection
.
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translation:

verde=green
negro=black

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Part Numbers?

to remove simpli use a flat screwdriver
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new part is available in w&n, by meters

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Hi deQuincey- can you share the p/n for the run channel and the clamps? I looked on the W&N website for these 2 items and they don't seem to be listed.
Also, is the run channel that W&N offers rigid or flexible? The one which is on my car (and seems original) is rigid (steel).
Thanks in advance.
 
Hi deQuincey- can you share the p/n for the run channel and the clamps? I looked on the W&N website for these 2 items and they don't seem to be listed.
Also, is the run channel that W&N offers rigid or flexible? The one which is on my car (and seems original) is rigid (steel).
Thanks in advance.

they are listed, probably you had problems to identify them in the drawings

if you are looking at w&n catalogs:

original run channel, is flexible, made of steel but completely covered in rubber and felt,

page: 51/23, references 8 and 9 for front windows
page: 51/27 ref. 6 and 7 for rear windows

the clamps and the run channel is the same for front and rear, you need aprox.

60cm for each front window + 5 clamps
80cm for each rear window + 6 clamps



hope it helps
 
in action !

works great

click in the image

thanks




and final aspect, after redoing the panels and so on:
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some other details newly incorporated
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Outstanding write up, thanks!!!

However, I didn't see a place where you discribe how to adjust the rear window position. On the right side, I've got a good fit. On the left side, The window appears that it needs to rotate forward about an inch. I saw the seven bolts that secure the window assembly tot he car, how do you adjust the position with all these bolts?

Left side (driver) bad fit

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Right side good fit (how to do this?). Note: the front window is slightly down in this picture

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There is a rubber spring/stopper on a threaded rod that you adjust for up and down position, just like the front. Located on the frame of the window unit. This will allow/restrict more or less window movement, although it looks like your upper chrome piece also needs adjustment?
 
Right, I just tried that but no good. I turned the bumper stop in about three turns and it didn't seem to make any difference. I'm almost out of adjustment, the stop is cranked nearly all the way in. But the arm is still contacting the stop, I can see the frame flex slightly when the window contacts the stop.

How do you adjust the upper chrome piece??

Edit: I just checked the window response to big changes in the bump stop. The window stops at the same place whther the bump stop is all the way in or screwed out about ten turns. The felt/weatherstripping in the upper slot is hard as a rock. Pics to follow

Pic of the felt.

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rubber gaskets

DeQ, you mentioned that you made the gaskets at the bottom of the window but bought the corner ones.
I am in the process of replacing the gaskets also and have the rubber to replace the nla.
Can you tell me where you bought the corner gaskets.
Many thanks.
Si
 
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