Lets talk oil.

m5bb

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I searched many times trying to find a story that someone posted recently about what engine oil to use.
This discussion can go crazy as everyone has their opinions and their favorite oil.
Mine has always been Castrol.

But recently with my engine rebuild I thought I would check on this.
Didn't take long for my piston and cam supplier Paul Burke to set me straight.

They used to put an additive in oil called ZDDP. It purpose was to help with wear on metal to metal contact areas like camshafts and rocker arms.
Here's some Google info.

ZDDP, Zinc dialyldithiophosphate, is a compound that was introduced over 70 years ago and regularly added to motor oils. Its claim to fame is that it was the most cost effective metal on metal anti-wear additive…….and that is no legend. The compound was originally developed for use in airplane engines, but very quickly was found to be effective in car and truck engines for the anti-wear protection, in particular associated with flat tappets, overhead cam lobes, buckets and followers and the associated lifters where there is considerable pressure generated at the metal to metal interface and wear of the surface is known to be prevalent.
All tests that we’ve reviewed conclude that ZDDP is effective in moderating the wear, when formulated properly with base stock oils. ZDDP is also known to have anti-oxidant and corrosion resistant properties which are very useful in preventing aging of the internal combustion engine.
Over the last 40 years there has been considerable pressure to reduce the use of ZDDP in motor oil applications because of long term human toxicity concerns, and the fact that they are considered to be toxic to aquatic wildlife with long lasting effects. This can be alleviated with proper safety and disposal practices.
Further, influencing the decision is that catalytic converter life times are decreased by contamination with Zinc and Phosphates, and hence a drive to decrease the use of the additive to lower concentrations and in some cases its elimination.
As engine oil manufacturers decreased the concentration of ZDDP in motor oils over the last 20 years concerns became apparent about the impact on wear in engines, both classic and modern. It is now clear that modern passenger car engines are quite different in their need for ZDDP. Many are multivalve overhead cam engines with lower spring pressures. Those modern engines that still use an overhead valve arrangement use roller lifters instead of flat tappets and hence have lower pressure metal to metal contact and consequently require lower performance additives.
However the impact on classic engines was more concerning. There are reports from several years ago that problems were manifested in the rapid wear and almost total destruction of the camshaft and lifters in freshly overhauled engines. Some have blamed this problem on poor quality rebuilds, and also that the replacement lifters which were not meeting hardness specifications. But this problem is also attributed to the appearance of lubrication problems during the “run in” or “break in” period. The benefits of ZDDP are, after all, especially important during the break-in period for camshafts and lifters, and it makes sense that the excessive wear and destruction of parts will show up in recently overhauled engines well before we see it in higher mileage motors.
So these are some of our conclusions. These types of problems are never simple, but as a result of our reading we would offer the following observations:

  1. Consider using ZDDP as an additive in the motor oil during the run in period on a rebuilt classic engine. We are presently doing this on our rebuilt Jaguar 3.4Litre engine for the Mark 2.
  2. Be careful with the concentration of ZDDP used in your break in oil, as over dosing can cause increased wear – more is not always better! Always refer to the manufacturers specs and measure well.
So I am currently using Mobil Delvac 1300 15w-40.
This is an oil that is used a lot in diesel trucks.
There are all these classifications for oil that the manufacturers like BMW say the oil you use has to have.
I'm not going to get into all this but I think if you looked at the specs for 1970's BMW you would find that this oil exceeds them and also has ZDDP.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENCVLMOMobil_Delvac_1300_Super.aspx

JUST SAYING................. and were off and running. ;)
 

deQuincey

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good analysis, what worries me is to combine aditives, i.e. i use castrol classic oil 20w50, but i do not know which aditives is castrol using there, so zddp is a questionable addition to mine, do not know
 

DougE

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I think ZDDP (Zinc) is important in flat tappet engines (Chevy Small Block) rather than OHC engines.
 

Tierfreund

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Oh yes, please. Another oil thread! :)

Short but unpopular because much too simple answer: the M30 is a relatively modern construction (hard to believe as it dates from 67-68 ).
Still:
Go synthetic (don´t worry, all that "too thin and it´ll leak and all that" is BS).
Use 0w40 or 10W60.
Don´t use 0w30, that´s for more modern motors.
Forget about "Classic Oil". Might as well call them Snake Oil. Most profitable product oil companies make: Cheapest imagnineable stuff in a pretty can.

Oil (especially modern synthetic) is so much better today than in the 60s and the oil filter in the M30 is pretty effective: Go for 10.000mls change intervalls on full synthetic. Even 15.000mls would do no harm.

Forget all additives. Good oil has plenty and finely matched to each other. Additional additives are like vitamin pills. Only americans believe in them. Do little harm but absolutely no good. Most gets pissed away.

Do not warm the engine by leaving it to idle. Start the engine, wait 3-4 seconds for full oil pressure and drive off.
Drive it gently (no full throttle and no more than 2500rpm) until the oil has warmed.
Install an oil temp gauge.

Once you get the oil to at least 70deg Celcius: go for it.

Stop worrying.

Drive it hard and have fun.
 

m5bb

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BTW this oil is available at O Reilly auto parts and some Walmarts $11.23/gal. and maybe others.

BTW just because it's overhead cam doesn't mean it doesn't have a rocker arm riding on a cam. Not unlike a lifter/tappet.
Metal to metal.
 

Arde

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Old topic same mindset. Oleic acid in a good Picual is the answer.
 

bavbob

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Pages and pages of oil threads on Bimmerforums E24 site. You got the Rotella crowd, the Brad Penn crowd, the VR1 crowd. However you have the skeptics who say that the zinc content of all of these is way less than you need. The you have the additive crowd.

20 years ago when no forum existed, I used (and still do) 10w40 in my E24, have 175K on it and it runs great and like the day I bought it. I think we are too consumed with perfection. Gotta run, my 6th grader's SAT tutor is at the door.
 

m5bb

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Old topic same mindset. Oleic acid in a good Picual is the answer.

So we can drive around smelling like olive oil? :???:

Yes, I think we over do it.
I have a 533i with 312k on it. Never been opened up.
Over half of that mileage was on 10-40 Castrol.
Drove it this afternoon and amazing how good it runs.

Just saying.............

I am going to run my new coupe rebuilt engine on the Delvac. Already have 4000 miles on it from my trip.
Certainly won't hurt anything and is not more expensive than the others.
Nuff said.....
 

oilcan93

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Contrary to what some may think, modern synthetic oils have reduced the amounts of ZDDP in their oil due to new EPA regulations. I did a good bit of research and that does not bode well for our coupes. So like Stevehose, I use the Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W50 oil. Only $7.50/quart at O'Reilley's and I have the peace of mind that my motor is getting the oil it needs
 

p.smitty

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Brad Penn Oil?

Google it. NOT made by a guy named "Brad Penn", but is made in Bradley Pennsylvania. A semi-synthetic oil with lots of zinc. I've heard that it's the old Kendall recipe. Air-cooled Porsche guys have been arguing about oil, and using this oil for years. To be honest, I'm so damn confused about oil, I don't know what to use anymore. Really now, isn't it odd that people are WAAAY more worried about what oil or gas is best for their car or motorcycle, but continue to put contaminated food and fluids in their own bodies almost every meal knowing it's not good for them (of course,me included). I mean, I'll drive across town in rush hour traffic to find no-ethenol gas for an old car or motorcycle and pay shipping charges to have oil sent to my house for my "toys" because it's "good for them", but settle for junk food and soda as a meal (fuel and oil) for myself because it's more convenient. I really wish that I didn't take this sh*t so seriously, but I guess it's a disease. I guess that its a disease that we must all have it or we wouldn't be on this website or subject.
Anyway, I think I'll open a beer and a bag of chips as I order some Brad Penn Oil and no-ethenol gas on Amazon. At least someone/something I care about will be eating and drinking healthy.

Keep Sonny,
Cher
 
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Tierfreund

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Google it. NOT made by a guy named "Brad Penn", but is made in Bradley Pennsylvania. A semi-synthetic oil with lots of zinc. I've heard that it's the old Kendall recipe. Air-cooled Porsche guys have been arguing about oil, and using this oil for years. To be honest, I'm so damn confused about oil, I don't know what to use anymore. Really now, isn't it odd that people are WAAAY more worried about what oil or gas is best for their car or motorcycle, but continue to put contaminated food and fluids in their own bodies almost every meal knowing it's not good for them (of course,me included). I mean, I'll drive across town in rush hour traffic to find no-ethenol gas for an old car or motorcycle and pay shipping charges to have oil sent to my house for my "toys" because it's "good for them", but settle for junk food and soda as a meal (fuel and oil) for myself because it's more convenient. I really wish that I didn't take this sh*t so seriously, but I guess it's a disease. I guess that its a disease that we must all have it or we wouldn't be on this website or subject.
Anyway, I think I'll open a beer and a bag of chips as I order some Brad Penn Oil and no-ethenol gas on Amazon. At least someone/something I care about will be eating and drinking healthy.

Keep Sonny,
Cher

Damn fine point. Engines can be completely rebuilt. (Human, not E9) Bodies: Not so much...
 

bdigel

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Google it. NOT made by a guy named "Brad Penn", but is made in Bradley Pennsylvania. A semi-synthetic oil with lots of zinc. I've heard that it's the old Kendall recipe. Air-cooled Porsche guys have been arguing about oil, and using this oil for years. To be honest, I'm so damn confused about oil, I don't know what to use anymore. Really now, isn't it odd that people are WAAAY more worried about what oil or gas is best for their car or motorcycle, but continue to put contaminated food and fluids in their own bodies almost every meal knowing it's not good for them (of course,me included). I mean, I'll drive across town in rush hour traffic to find no-ethenol gas for an old car or motorcycle and pay shipping charges to have oil sent to my house for my "toys" because it's "good for them", but settle for junk food and soda as a meal (fuel and oil) for myself because it's more convenient. I really wish that I didn't take this sh*t so seriously, but I guess it's a disease. I guess that its a disease that we must all have it or we wouldn't be on this website or subject.
Anyway, I think I'll open a beer and a bag of chips as I order some Brad Penn Oil and no-ethenol gas on Amazon. At least someone/something I care about will be eating and drinking healthy.

Keep Sonny,
Cher

It's Bradford PA , Bradford Pa is in the NW corner of the state just across the boarder from NY, 90 miles south of Buffalo ,A small city Built on oil and other small industry ( Zippo, Case cutlery ) not sure about the recipe . But I know for certain Brad Penn is in the old Kendal plant . My Dad actually worked in that plant as a teenager ; Im not a chemist nor an engineer but I like to support companies Im familiar with . so I use Brad Penn in my older cars
 

m5bb

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This discussion can go on and on like it has on other forums.

I think the point that everyone except Tierfreund agrees on is oil that has some ZDDP in it should be used in engines from this period.
Engines that have metal to metal wear surfaces.

Going to leave it at that. :wink:
Thanks,
Gary
 

Tierfreund

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This discussion can go on and on like it has on other forums.

I think the point that everyone except Tierfreund agrees on is oil that has some ZDDP in it should be used in engines from this period.
Engines that have metal to metal wear surfaces.

Going to leave it at that. :wink:
Thanks,
Gary


Just a friendly disagreement, but:

practically every engine has metal to metal wear surfaces. I know of no valvetrain, no matter how modern the engine or how it is built that doesn´t. Cam journals, big ends, rod end journals etc. may all be floating on oil pressure (if all is well) and thus are not technically metal on metal but piston rings will find oil residue at best on the cylinder wall, not pressurized oil. As do all camshaft lobes. So if you think you need ZDDP in an M30 you probably need it in a brandnew Lexus as well.
Or you´ll just trust the oil manufacturers to have figured out a substitute.

ZDDP sounds like the new lead to me. Or the new ethanol content. Most times these things turn out to be lots ado about nothing.

In the UK they still pour gallons of lead replacements into all sorts of cars. in germany you´d be hard pressed to find any of that stuff on any shelf. We just run the same (old) engines in the same cars without the stuff, usually harder and longer and they are just as fine (actually more than that. for some reason cars in the UK wear much much faster than on the continent, go figure, might be the food...)
 

'69 2800cs

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The difference between the modern engines and the M30 is flat rocker (or lifter) vs. roller rocker. ZDDP helps in these very high stress metal across metal contacts and it is not necessary where you have a roller.

This picture represents the difference in "old" valvetrains vs "new".

rollersolid-400x556.jpg


I buy into the ZDDP hype and on my engines where the cam rubs across a large flat surface, I use ZDDP oil.
 

Tierfreund

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I understand that . But by far not all new engines have roller rockers. Not by a long shot. And while the search for internal friction reduction has certainly lead to (among other things) lower valve spring rates there have been some very high revving engines as of late (before the turbos became the latest fashion - again) which will certainly have valve spring rates that are at the very least compareable with the M30.

I believe the ZDDP thing is a pretty convinient issue for some people to sell more stuff on the emotional attachement some people have to their cars.

But,as they say, that´s just my 2cents. Everyone is of course free to do and believe what they consider to be right.

A smart man stays out of every discussion about reilgion, politics and (motor) oil...

I didn´t, so there you go...
 

Tierfreund

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Oh, and btw. Take a close look at the "bearing" the roller has in the tappet. Not under oil pressure, small diameter, small ridge (on on each side) that has to carry the whole load.
Granted, pressure buildup will be more linear than on a flat tappet to cam lobe surface, but I bet a quick calculation will find even higher absolute metal to metal pressure because of the very small surface that has to carry the full load...
 
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