Hello , I am working on a 1966 2000cs. I need to set the distributor timing . My engine has a crankshaft pulley with two small notches and a fixed pointer. Can some please advise me which notch the pointer should point to . They are only a few degrees apart and I do not see any real change from one to the other or is there another place I should be looking to set the timing . My engine does not have a slot in the rear in the bell housing as some people have told me to look for. Thanks for any information.
M-10 Timing
- Thread starter CarSnob
- Start date
Use the marks on the flywheel, OT is TDC, the ball bearing is 25 degrees advanced. On a 2002 1500 rpm at 25 degrees is your goal. You can advance the flywheel with a large screwdriver a few cogs at a time.
That is very strange, was the flywheel replaced?
Have you manually rotated the flywheel once around to check for the ball?
That is why I advance the flywheel with a screwdriver, makes it very easy to find.
Your flywheel should have larger holes as well where it was balanced at one time. My 02 isn’t here so I can’t check the pulley.
There is no timing light window?
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
advance the distributor till he runs at his fastest at idle and than turn back a few degrees. Should be fine there or at least very close.
I thank you for your reply, I assume that would get me close but I am having trouble setting the carbs and I believe it's because I do not have the correct timing. The engine runs well at high speed but the idle is very bad .
Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
did you check the distributor ? Mechanical advance … vacuum advance ? all working well ?
starcruiser
Well-Known Member
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Hello CarSnob,
The early engines only had markings on the front pulley zero degrees (OT) and the three degrees before (BTDC). Make sure you have a good set of points adjusted to the correct gap. Which you can check manually, .016 gap. Also you can check with the engine running with a dwell meter, which should read 60 degrees =/- 1 degree.
If you don't have third mark on the pulley which is 25 degrees (BTDC), you will need to set the engine statically. Set the point gap. Rotate the engine manually clockwise till the 3 degree mark aligns with pointer on the chain cover, take note as to which way the dist. rotor is turning also as it reaches the #1 position. The rotor should also align approximately with the notch in the distributor housing. Hook up a 6/12 volt test lamp where the wire connection goes into the distributer and to ground. Just turn on the ignition switch, not starting. Loosen the bolt that holds the dist., rotate the dist. housing slightly away from the way the rotor was approaching the notch. Now as you turn it back towards the #1 position/notch the light will light up. This is where the points are closing at 3 degrees (BTDC). Tighten the dist. bolt.
If you happen to have a 25 degree mark on the pulley you can use a timing light. You should paint the three marks on the pulley with different colors, to distinguish which one is which. Hook up the strobe light, disconnect the vacuum line, if you have one, loosen the dist., and start the engine. Throttle the engine to 2000 rpm, shine the light down at the pulley and pointer, rotate the dist. till the 25 degree mark lines up with the notch, you will need three hands to do all of this. Turn off the engine and tighten the dist. bolt. Start up again and recheck.
If you have a degree wheel you could mark the pulley for the 25 degree mark.
After all this adjust your idle speed.
Hope this helps, good luck, Chris Starcruiser
https://auto.howstuffworks.com/how-to-static-time-engine2.htm
The early engines only had markings on the front pulley zero degrees (OT) and the three degrees before (BTDC). Make sure you have a good set of points adjusted to the correct gap. Which you can check manually, .016 gap. Also you can check with the engine running with a dwell meter, which should read 60 degrees =/- 1 degree.
If you don't have third mark on the pulley which is 25 degrees (BTDC), you will need to set the engine statically. Set the point gap. Rotate the engine manually clockwise till the 3 degree mark aligns with pointer on the chain cover, take note as to which way the dist. rotor is turning also as it reaches the #1 position. The rotor should also align approximately with the notch in the distributor housing. Hook up a 6/12 volt test lamp where the wire connection goes into the distributer and to ground. Just turn on the ignition switch, not starting. Loosen the bolt that holds the dist., rotate the dist. housing slightly away from the way the rotor was approaching the notch. Now as you turn it back towards the #1 position/notch the light will light up. This is where the points are closing at 3 degrees (BTDC). Tighten the dist. bolt.
If you happen to have a 25 degree mark on the pulley you can use a timing light. You should paint the three marks on the pulley with different colors, to distinguish which one is which. Hook up the strobe light, disconnect the vacuum line, if you have one, loosen the dist., and start the engine. Throttle the engine to 2000 rpm, shine the light down at the pulley and pointer, rotate the dist. till the 25 degree mark lines up with the notch, you will need three hands to do all of this. Turn off the engine and tighten the dist. bolt. Start up again and recheck.
If you have a degree wheel you could mark the pulley for the 25 degree mark.
After all this adjust your idle speed.
Hope this helps, good luck, Chris Starcruiser
https://auto.howstuffworks.com/how-to-static-time-engine2.htm
Does this degree wheel help?
You will need some one else to explain how to use it, but it looks impressive.
You can change the diameter and timing, then print and I guess stick it onto the pulley. Next rainy day I will try to understand it.
https://www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel.aspx
You will need some one else to explain how to use it, but it looks impressive.
You can change the diameter and timing, then print and I guess stick it onto the pulley. Next rainy day I will try to understand it.
https://www.blocklayer.com/degree-wheel.aspx