Mr. Johnson's 1970 2800 CS - Update 09/05/2024

Remember me? It's been 19 months since my last confession.

People say that if you do what you love, you'll never work a day in your life. Those people are wrong and I think they are actually lying.

I initially had the car towed from my house to my shop in the beginning of January, 2023. My plan was to essentially clean everything and swap the engines. Then scope creep set in and next thing you know, my only revenue in January was replacing a brake light switch on a customer's car in his garage. To add insult to injury, I had to warranty that part in November, so not a great month! I had customers looking to get their cars in and I felt quite guilty having this project taking up my workspace, so I had to make that happen.

Anyway, lets start where I left off. February 1, I got all of the aluminum parts together from the original engine and a few of the pieces from the replacement engine that were easy to grab. I wasn't going to do a whole refresh on the new motor because it was a running engine and its main purpose is to make this a functional vehicle. I had made contact with a guy that does vapor blasting and he's about a mile and a half from my shop, so doesn't get much better than that. I dropped all of this off plus more. Interestingly, both engines had replacement heads and the timing covers measured identically but the date codes inside made it pretty simple to figure out which is which.

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While that stuff was away, I looked at some other things that might make me happy and I decided to see how the rear bumper, tail lights and the license plate trim would clean up. The latter is the early chromed brass part, so something I was looking forward to seeing. Not bad for a first pass.

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I primed and painted the brake booster. I thought using my floor jack handle was a relatively elegant solution and the paint laid down quite nicely. I was able to save the original, worn sticker. Matches all the other decals under the hood.
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February 10th, I picked up all of my freshly cleaned aluminum bits and had an interesting discovery about my original valve cover. I think it also answers a question or two about what might have happened to the original engine.

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I'd like to find another with the small roundel like this but this one has some character and I'm amazed it was never swapped out so I'm not upset about it!

One of the things I had been doing while the car has been in the shop is conditioning the leather. When I removed the right rear seat, I found these markings and thought they were worth sharing.

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I was working on getting a load of hardware to be plated, but some bolts are supposed to be black-oxide (brake caliper bolts, steering knuckle bolts, etc). I have a great shop nearby that does only this and I used them on my E12 project. The best part is that they'll do a very small batch of bolts and charge very reasonable money to do it. The plater I've been using has $150 batch minimums and it can go up for rack plating, so it's a welcome change. I had ordered the hardware kits that Walloth and Nesch sell and while to the chagrin of some, I swapped in my painted tension strut washers, I had most everything I needed for the subframe, thought that kit does not include the bolts to mount the steering box. I find that odd. It was during the process of sourcing those bolts that I discovered that most everything I sourced for the car is in fact wrong. Just like when I had the subframe powder coated the wrong color, we now have this situation where I had a few bolts refinished in black oxide and I now have more.

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The four subframe bolts, the three steering box bolts, the two control arm bolts, brake caliper bolts, steering arm bolts, the idler arm bolt and the bolts for the anti-roll bar brackets are in fact black oxide on this car (and I have confirmed this with photos of 227236). Yay.

And then moving on to more plating discoveries. All of this is from my original power steering pump and the banjo bolts for the box as well as the spacers and washers for the control arms. Everything here is clear zinc. I have to really think about some stuff now.

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February 15, it got to the point I had to take the car off the lift. I had created a much bigger project than anticipated. That is not a bad thing. My entire goal for this project has been to maintain as much of an original car as I can but there are things that just have to be addressed. I also want to do a proper job and while I was disappointed I had to put the project aside, I hoped that in the meantime I could keep bits and pieces moving and find a window to get back into it. It didn't help that I have two very intense E28 projects for customers. Fortunately at this point, leaving the struts as a unit, the old rotors on the hubs and having all of the subframe parts back meant that I could install those parts and put the car on dollies. Sure, I'll use all the wrong hardware, but I'm not torquing anything yet, it just needs to have wheels on to sit on dollies.

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Don't worry, those are just empty boxes and bubble wrap on the trunk of the green E28.

After a while, I swapped the green E28 and the coupe and put it under a couple of sheets as well next to the wall and I didn't touch the car itself for about 18.5 months.

Occasionally, friends would come through town and they'd stop in to see what ridiculous projects I had in the shop and oftentimes, discussion would turn to why isn't that motor in that car yet and I would have a bunch of answers and that was never good enough. One friend took it upon himself to say we are going to put this engine on this stand (I had just swapped an S52 into an E34 touring, so the stand was empty) and we ended up doing that August 3, 2023. Stripped the accessories off and wheeled it outside and cleaned it up.

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The upper timing cover is from another engine and it's broken since that engine suffered a camshaft failure. Just needed to make this water tight!

Unfortunately, progress on this was halted after discovering someone broke two water pump bolts off and just left them, so we spent the rest of the day drilling those out and re-tapping the holes. They came out great, but that was the extent of the work on this engine for the foreseeable future.

Too much going on, back to the back burner again.
 
Fast forward to the beginning of August, 2024. A couple friends come by pretty regularly and we will grab dinner or something. Quite often the conversation shifts to the E9 and when is something going to happen, etc. With customer projects that aren't progressing, it is ridiculous to put a bunch of time into my own car, particularly when several of my other cars have needs (one more severe than the rest), but at the same time, I keep getting these somewhat wacky projects from good customers and they need to be done as well. I had the summer of cars that won't leave and a very small shop. For the last year, that Hartge E28 that was photobombing a previous post has been at a body shop getting a complete repaint (it is literally a shell on dollies) and it's looking like it's coming back to the shop. I have had the coupe here for 20 months (that sounds just as annoying as the parents that refer to their children by how many months old they are) and it's going to have to go back home. One night, I explained this to my friends and they said why not put the motor in it?

How hard could it be?

Last week, I had the green E28 on the lift since it's the car I've been trying to make a big push on. I got a few things knocked out on it and we decided, it would come off the lift and then we'd put the E9 up there. Well, not everything goes according to plan and one friend's clutch hydraulics failed at the shop, so his car went on the lift instead. Got that knocked out Friday, we went to dinner and when we came back, we spun the coupe around got it loaded on the lift.
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Long time no see. Interesting to see it again and see what a nice car it is. I put it up in the air the next morning and we got to work on the engine. Intake and exhaust manifolds off.

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Cleaned up the sides of the block, wire brush, etc and masked the timing cover, head and oil pan and then primed and painted it. Somehow no photos of that, but I assure you it's painted. At this point, time to swap on the nice parts. While the oil pan was off, I removed the plug for the pressure relief piston and it was stuck. Ended up removing the oil pump and freeing the stuck piston. Fortunately the bore was nice as was the piston, I think it was just stuck from not moving for so long. Of course, you can't go anywhere with this motor and not have a broken bolt and had to extract an oil pan bolt. Fortunately, penetrant and a torch with which to ignite that penetrant allowed me to grab the small nub with a giant pair of vise grips and for the first time successfully remove a broken bolt without a drill. Oh what a feeling. Chased the threads, put the spooge on the seams (also replaced the rear main and the rear main carrier and gasket) and went to install the oil pan. Next issue!

Turns out that the oil pan from the 3.0 installed in the car is late enough to have the baffle, while the new engine being made in late 1970 has the early oil pump and therefore early pickup and the pan has no baffle. The newer pan almost fit.
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Oops. Well, off with the pan and off with the oil pump again. I found the box of parts I took off the installed motor and found the pump which had an '82 casting date on it and a very freely moving piston. I made sure it was clean and installed it. Had to do a little bit of engineering as I didn't want to remove the main cap bolts to change the bracket, so using spacers installed with the nuts on the original pump, we made it work. Oil pan fit this time.
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It was around this time I began feeling like this was going to be a pretty temporary engine.

With the pan on, we spun the engine back around and did all the topside stuff. I got screwed by one gasket. Early heads have a different water neck gasket than late heads and I of course am well stocked on the late one. I checked the box of gaskets for the early one and while I have a file folder for it, no dice. Ended up putting some Permatex aviation gasket maker on both surfaces but I wasn't super comfortable with this given the access situation. Oh well, I moved on. New upper timing cover gaskets, pulled the plugs, primed the tensioner (after cleaning it out, new sealing ring and teflon tape on the threads). Time for the valve adjustment. Not sure when it was last done but every valve save for two was tight. Everything looks okay wear wise. At least the top of the motor looks better than the bottom.
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Sunday morning, it's time to put the engine in the car, so we turn our attention back to the car. It's firewall insulation time. The left piece around the pedal bracket was still there, so I opted to leave that. Of course the lower right is not available, so I bought the set from Oils Design Group and decided to cut the bottom and make it a 3 piece set again. I had also ordered the hideously expensive factory upper piece, but Walloth and Nesch's price was better than my wholesale price so I got it from them. First step was reinstalling the brake lines for the right front. I was going to have these remade, but the originals are fine if a bit patinaed. Once they were installed, I made my cuts to the lower piece and fit it up, then had to do a bit of trimming as I am assuming my early car has differences with where the tabs are that hold the brake lines. The genuine piece seems to have those same issues. Also, the holes in the firewall for the AC lines and also for the washer hose were incompatible with the insulation, so I did what I could to gracefully solve all of these issues. I then masked, sprayed the adhesive and installed and I feel it fit quite well. The upper piece is a complete disaster and if you do try to make adjustments, the foam backing just comes apart, so it's stuck where it is. All of the holes line up except for the drain tubes. They're pretty damn big so I guess it really is six of one, half a dozen of the other.

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I also felt 19 months was enough time to wax the engine bay paint so I did that too.

At this point, It was time to button up the motor and install one last thing to lift the motor off the stand and onto the subframe. The front lifting bracket. The M8x65mm bolt went in no problem, but the M6x65 wouldn't go in. Of course the last bolt I have to install on the front of the engine is broken off in the block. The sad thing was I had just chased a ton of threads and made a comment about how when you have the tap and die set out, it's usually a bad thing. Oops.

This was my view for an hour or so.

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The depth of the hole caused all sorts of issues. I center punched the bolt remnant but after a while, I couldn't tell what I was drilling, so I decided we needed to just put the motor on the subframe and I'll work on it from there. We pulled the crank nut (which had no washer) and I figured hey at least I can change this lower timing cover with a fresh one. I didn't have one blasted. The other one was still on the old motor.

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Pulled the lower timing cover off and the water pump. I had decided I'm going to try to install a helicoil, but I didn't have any M6x1.0. I ordered a set off of Amazon which said overnight delivery, but I awoke to "Arriving by 10pm." It's Tuesday, so I went to my favorite store, McFadden-Dale Industrial Hardware and bought a kit along with a fresh Norseman 1/4" drill bit.

My fear though, was given that the hole isn't quite round anymore, where is the center of this and once I drill it, tap it and put the coil in, will it line up with the hole in the timing cover. I got the idea to use the lifting bracket, but it couldn't work with the head installed and while I have a few of them, I didn't want to cut one up, so I used a timing cover and very gingerly cut the material and it sliced right through it.

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The insert went in without issue. Bracket can now be installed. But first, we have to do the crank seal, timing cover gaskets and then replace all the new gaskets that had to be removed to fix this.

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Yay. All buttoned back up. Brackets installed. So, why is that water pump on there? Well, it seems people haven't been having much fun with the screw on fan clutches and I have a couple of good bolt-on fan clutches. I bought this pump in 2014 for my Golf 530i but ended up going with a screw on setup for it. Figured for this car, why not and I can always change it. It's a Saleri, and from the era when they actually made good pumps. We will see, I guess.

Also, what's with this nifty hydraulic lifting cart? Well, I'd have used the setup I used to remove the engine, but it has the Hartge's front subframe and engine on it, so that's not very useful. I bought this from a friend and figured I'd appreciate the extra adjustability of it and it's my first time using it. At least I could put the engine at whatever level I wanted to work on it, so that was nice.

Something else I discovered, is that every bolt or nut that came off of this motor is also black oxide, so all of these zinc plated bolts are also wrong. So exciting. Might also explain why so many of them have broken and why they made the change to yellow zinc.
 
Now with this, we are ready to attach the transmission to the engine. Of course, first the flywheel, clutch, etc. I elected to use the clutch that was on the engine and as such I left the flywheel alone. It and the pressure plate cleaned up quite nicely. I did change the pilot bearing. It was a sealed bearing so all things point to this clutch not being that old. New flywheel bolts. New pivot pin, new clutch fork and new release bearing. I went back and forth on what transmission to use and decided to just stick with the G265 that was in the car. Installed the bell housing, then installed the transmission.
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I decided I wanted a few more gears.

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Interestingly, the balance of this assembly on the cart is not as stable as it was on the wooden setup I used previously. The entire transmission including bell-housing was hanging off of that and it was rock solid. For some reason, this was much less stable. Either way, time to give this a shot.

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It took quite a bit of adjusting. Also, we had to move the wood around quite a bit, but we got it in.

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Steering box on the subframe was dumb. Too difficult to get everything lined up. I ended up folding the u-joint down and decided I'll deal with it later. I did that this morning. I removed the box, removed the u-joint from the box, cleaned the splines on all four things, added some grease, spread the joints and slipped the u-joint on the shaft as far as it would go, then installed the box. That went pretty well. Removing the bolt for the left control arm allows the box to come out without touching anything.

I also torqued the crank nut to 325 ft lbs and put loctite 271 on it. I robbed the nut and washer from the old motor since the nut sucked on this one and there was no washer. I have to say it's awesome having access to this torque wrench, but putting 325 ft lbs through this assembly with the hood on is a bit nerve-wracking. Everything survived, so yay.

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I will say it's pretty amazing to see the engine in the car. I decided that I'm going to leave the intake alone and just install it as-is with the Webers. It's clean but doesn't look brand new. That's fine. I guess I can use an M30B35 starter. I have no problem using the old one, but I do have some B35 ones. I just need to figure out all the wiring. I'm going to use an E12 positive battery cable since I have a new one so that should work well. Still plenty to do. I'll do shifter, driveshaft and exhaust. I used my brake rotors, pads and wheel bearings on a customers car so need to order those again.

More to come...
 
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