My Baby is done... Thanks for all your help!!!!

Gransin

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Of course I deem you worthy.

So what's the problem then, really? It's unnecessary to talk about private conversations, since they are.. private, and we can't know what's been said there.
You've been a member here for 7 years, have you always had the feeling that this forum is very hateful and obnoxious? Because in my opinion, this is the most welcoming and caring forum I've ever spent time on.
And since you've been here 7 years, I think you know that members share just about anything BMW or coupe related, for reasons or absolutely no reasons at all.

There has been alot of drama around you and your project, we all see that. The question you should ask yourself is, why is this happening only to me, and not to anyone else that have a build thread or share pics or just post things.
This is something we can't help you with, and you need to figure it out yourself.

Before when I had a bad day, I got irritated by people around me since I felt they were against me, and the simplest solution was to come to the conclusion that they are a**holes.
But after a while, that got unbearable because who wants to live and work with a bunch of a**holes around you.
It was time for some big deep reflection, and it didn't come to me quick, and it was very hard to admit it to myself, but it was me who was the biggest a**hole.
After figuring that one out, I seldom run into a**holes anymore.

Now, Scott, I'm not saying you are one, I honestly don't think you are. But something you do seems to trigger alot of people. You draw the conclusion that this forum is bad and facebook is good because you don't get any criticism on facebook, but keep in mind that you're only posting about 1% of your text on facebook, compared to the forum, and that most people just scroll by most updates/postings on the eeeendless facebook feed.

The choice is yours, but please don't blame the forum, or the admins.
 

Ohmess

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What type of content is appreciated here? It seems as though this group is much more technically inclined not interested in sharing just for sharing sake but rather with a purpose. I’m not trying to push any buttons but don’t want my buttons pushed either.

Perhaps this conversation should go with the feedback section together with some additional information regarding how many problems were caused by someone contacting my shop and trying to interfere with my business relationship and the complete lack of response to such activities by the admin.

Facebook is set up for this type of sharing and has community standards that do not allow attacking each other where as it appears this forum has no such standards and is proud that they are not as obnoxious as other forums.

Scott -- I haven't followed your soap opera closely, but your attacks on the administrators of this forum are way out of line. This kind of crap drives good people away from participating in internet forums as administrators; and if we lose the good people we have this place will fall apart. Don't ruin our forum because it is not catering to your needs.
 

TodB

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Scott’s car is finally done and looks great! I especially like the wheels. Silver BBS’ always look good with darker car colors, especially black. Scott, Target makes a foam wheel brush that works great with BBS wheels and the good news is that it’s only $3.99! I use one for washing and another dry for just before show prep to get any pesky dust.

With regard to Scott’s posts, despite constructive feedback and suggestions from some of us about his longish posting style and calling out his incessant need for drama, positive feedback and continuous adulation, I think it’s safe to say that he is not understanding or listening to our feedback nor does he intend to change his “sharing” style. Instead, his responses are defensive as he suggests our comments are personal attacks and harassment laced with negativity which they are not. That certainly was not my intention when I wrote my post.

We agree to disagree I guess.

Scott, enjoy your car. It looks awesome and I’m truly glad it turned out ok. It’s been a long road for you for sure. You are a smart and very successful guy and surely know the importance of soliciting and listening to contrary opinions. I would suggest that you read some of our feedback posts again and really consider some of the consistent messaging and alter your posting style for this forum audience if you intend to continue to post here.

Please do not send me another PM claiming I’m the problem. I will not read it.

Dan, your call, but I would suggest that this thread also be locked. It’s run it’s course.
 

Gary Knox

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Scott,

I think there IS a big difference between facebook and forums like this one.

I am currently active on forums of 4 different automobile marques. All of these forums and 2 others I was once active on PRIMARILY have a technical focus. Members seek and provide guidance on how to solve technical issues, improve the specific model, or obtain specific services. Most members consider themselves to be both givers and takers of assistance. Essentially none of these forums are 'for-profit' organizations, but depend on support from members and a few low key advertisers.

I personally am not a member of facebook, as too many of the people who post there frequently think everyone should be interested in whatever they happen to be doing or thinking at any moment. I won`t post my opinion of that personality type. Also since these type of social media companies seem to make their owners wealthy by selling information about their members. I'm not going to give them that privilege.

My observation is that there was very little 'giving' of helpful information in your nearly 75 pages of threads. It was essentially aasking for info from others and maybe seeking acceptance. I believe you would be welcome back here any time you start truly providing help and assistance rather than just asking for help and perhaps feeding the ego. In my never to be humble opinion, facebook IS a better venue for your style and needs.

Gary Knox
 
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Markos

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Hi Scott,

No need to respond, but I thought you might find this useful...

I use facebook also, but not for sharing auto stuff. Since I hardly ever post here, I lurk on the e9 board a bit (as I highlighted earlier). Anyway, RTV (automotive silicone) won't hold your door trim in place despite the recommendation. The issue with your car is that your freshly painted door is completely missing the upper lip that holds the trim in place. It has rusted away to nothing, and the trim shall never stay put. It was likely frail and turned to dust when Benny's shop pulled the trim. The lip should be about 11.2mm tall and it runs the full length of the door. That's more than 3/8's of an inch, but not quite a half inch. Go look at your door and you'll get the idea when I say the lip is missing.

I think that you have 3 or 4 options to consider:

1. Buy a used door. I wouldn't mess with the other one if the trim is in place, but it looks like it has fitment issues also. Keep in mind that adjusting the door gaps are arguably more difficult than adjusting the windows. (I've only read about it myself, but numerous folks that have responded to your thread have done it.)

2. Buy a new skin for your door from W&N. It's probably safe to presume that you'll need to adjust the door like #1 in order to get the body lines to match.

3. Weld a new lip on. With that said, I was very underwhelmed by the welded repairs that I saw in your previous videos. That doesn't seem like a great option to me.

4. Since it's all painted up, you could consider riveting on an 18ga L-shaped piece of metal to replace the lip. It beats painting a door and you can't see it when the trim is installed. You'll still need the clips.​

photo (video) credit: ScotteVest via facebook...
e9_door_shot.png
 

JFENG

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“Anyway, RTV (automotive silicone) won't hold your door trim in place despite the recommendation.“

IMHO,

Any shop that recommends using RTV or any flexible adhesive for securing that piece of trim to the top of the door is not a good shop because this is a cheap short cut that won’t last. The rtv will fail over a short period of time and then you’ll have a mess to clean up. There is a right way to do this, and it’s the original attachment clips. The clips will dig into/thru the paint so the tops of the door should/must be finished with a rust inhibiting undercoat (high-zinc primer). Or you can Alley something like Wurth Waxoyl which will creep into and seal the areas where the mount clips break the paint barrier.

Even modern cars typically used a mechanical fastening scheme for that piece of trim because glues usually don’t work there (door-window squeegee).
 

Markos

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I think you skimmed and saw RTV. The recommendation was from facebook. There is no metal for the clips to grab onto!


“Anyway, RTV (automotive silicone) won't hold your door trim in place despite the recommendation.“

IMHO,

Any shop that recommends using RTV or any flexible adhesive for securing that piece of trim to the top of the door is not a good shop because this is a cheap short cut that won’t last. The rtv will fail over a short period of time and then you’ll have a mess to clean up. There is a right way to do this, and it’s the original attachment clips. The clips will dig into/thru the paint so the tops of the door should/must be finished with a rust inhibiting undercoat (high-zinc primer). Or you can Alley something like Wurth Waxoyl which will creep into and seal the areas where the mount clips break the paint barrier.

Even modern cars typically used a mechanical fastening scheme for that piece of trim because glues usually don’t work there (door-window squeegee).
 

dang

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Scott, if you happen to read this thread again I think I speak for most of the members here.... You have a beautiful car and we wish you the best with it. Go enjoy it! I'm sure you're a lot more knowledgeable about your car after going through this rebuild process, maybe you can share some of that knowledge in the future to help someone else enjoy their car. That's what it's all about.
 

scottevest

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Just wanted to thank you for the recommendation to Daniel Stern for lighting recommendations. I would never have found him without this forum. I know that others thought this expense was not worth it, but they were awesome, and so was he. Thanks much.


Here's the information on the headlights:
These are the headlamps that I think will be best for your
E9. They are $316/set of four. Optimal bulbs are $78.36/set
of four.
Koito low kbsl14
high kbsl16
[email protected]

Here's my email to Daniel:

Daniel,

I just wanted to thank you for all the advice on the lights. Last night I had to drive at night, super dark, first time. I was dreading it. It was the last 3 hours of a 12 hour drive back from California to Idaho. I was scared. BUT.... the lights made it easy, better than my Porsche Cayenne Turbo S premium lights, even with only one of the bright lights working due to an install issue. Frankly, even with the bright lights on, I couldn't tell it wasn't working. Thanks for making me feel safe.

Now... what should I do for my 964, within reason? How much?

Scott

--

BTW, went to visit @sfdon while in SF. He gave 2 thumbs up to the restoration, with some great feedback. I thought this would be helpful to someone.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/bmwe9/permalink/1624370054374860/

I hope and trust everyone here is well. Loving my coupe. I am planning to do a wrap up video some time. Runs amazing and looks just as good.

Thanks again everyone for all your help!

Going racing this weekend!

Scott
 

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lip277

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LOL - one of those engines to the side in Don's place is mine. :)
 

scottevest

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Hi,

I wanted to again thank everyone for all their help with MY BABY. I could not be more happy. I have driven it LOTS, and just put my snow tires on for the winter. I intend to drive it, but only on days that no salt etc. is on the road.

It drives amazing!!! I still plan on editing a wrap up video, but have not had time yet. Based upon my experience, I feel there are tons of helpful things I have learned for others similarly situated that have a Coupe that they think only needs a paint job, but actually needs much more. I had no idea that a simple $8500 paint job would turn out to require so much, but so glad I did everything, with all of your help. I have already had many people find my Youtube videos to thank me for sharing so much information, and lots more is contained in this thread and the prior one too, but hard to get through it all, as it is voluminous as has been correctly pointed out to me. I promise to summarize key decision points along the way to assist others embarking on a similar process. Given how much information is involved, it will take time.

I had a professional photographer friend of mine take a TON of great images. I put one below. As you can see, I already damaged the airdam. It is SO low.

I am down to a very short punch list of things that needs attention. I won't bore you with all of them, but one in particular I could use some advice on, if you are willing. It is relatively minor in the grand scheme of things, but before I ask Bennyz to tackle it, I wanted to get your take.

The sunroof was sticking a bit and required manual intervention to get it to open/close. It wasn't a big deal, and thought some grease would make it work. I asked a buddy who considered himself handy to take a look at it, and unfortunately after he tried to fix it, it no longer works at all. It is stuck in the closed position now. He said he needed the wiring diagram to fix it, which got me very nervous, especially since I could hear the electric engine running, but only when pushing the button towards the closed position, which means to me that the engine and power were fine. He gave up. Later, the engine stopped making noise, but I swapped out the blown fuse and now can hear it again, but still not moving. I absolutely adore the sunroof, as it makes no wind noise whatsoever or create any wind in the cabin, unlike ANY other sunroof vehicle I have ever owned. Since it is in the closed position, I am fine for the winter time, but wanted to see if you have any ideas on how to tackle this.

Thanks yet again. BTW, I owe everyone an update on Bennyz project. He is connected with @sfdon for the engine, who has been an amazing friend to me, even though he has not made a nickel from me. Just another nice guy wanted to see Coupes in their finest considition.

Thanks.

Scott
 

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autokunst

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Cool picture. I wouldn't classify your air dam as "SO" low. It would never contact the ground at a driveway entrance, or speed bump - it is too close to the wheels for any of that. Curbs and parking space stops on the other hand...
I'd also be remiss if I didn't tell you I cringe at the words "snow tires" and salt. :eek: If you are in an area that uses road salt for ice control, it takes several flushing rains before the corrosion causing salts are washed away and not splashing up onto and into the nooks and crannies of our rust prone coupes. That's my perspective, anyway. Good luck!!!
 

scottevest

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Cool picture. I wouldn't classify your air dam as "SO" low. It would never contact the ground at a driveway entrance, or speed bump - it is too close to the wheels for any of that. Curbs and parking space stops on the other hand...
I'd also be remiss if I didn't tell you I cringe at the words "snow tires" and salt. :eek: If you are in an area that uses road salt for ice control, it takes several flushing rains before the corrosion causing salts are washed away and not splashing up onto and into the nooks and crannies of our rust prone coupes. That's my perspective, anyway. Good luck!!!
Actually, I have hit the air damn 3 times on curbs that don't look menacing at all, including going in and out at our local McDonalds. While I understand there is some risk of issues involving snow, etc., I want to enjoy this car, and intend to be as careful as I can, within reason. It's a driver, a well taken care of one at that, but a driver nonetheless.
 

JFENG

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Scott

I suggest you stop asking guys who don't actually have hands on experience with E9', E3's, orthe same period Mercedes\porsches, to twiddle with your car. There was a very German-centeric approach to the design of these cars that is somewhat common across other major German oems of the time. People who are familiar with these cars should be able to work on your car without first making things worse. Otherwise it's like asking a MAC person to debug a Windows app.

There must be some good mechanics in your area that know older German cars...

Buy a set of the factory manuals. And force shops that you have.working on your car to read the darn thing.

Remind me, do you have the Carl Nelson springs? Those drop your ride height but they also help reduce the amount of body dip when going into driveways (as do the Bilstein shocks). A fatter front anti-sway bar will help as well. The rest is about you learning to see, judge and then adjust speed accordingly. The CSL style air dams are much more prone to catching, yet most learn not to break them (I broke mine within 2 years so I’m clearly a slow learner or just need to slow down more).

John
 

scottevest

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Thank you John. I do have Carl Nelson Springs. I have learned now how to avoid rubbing the bottom of the air down but it caught me by surprise as it does not appear as low as it response when going over what seem to be normal and trees. I now fully agree with you in terms of working on the vehicle but unfortunately in my little mountain town I have no one to do this sort of thing. I will bring it to Boise the next time I have a chance and leave the sunroof closed for now.

I thought mechanics we’re mechanics when it came to things like this but that is clearly not the case. I am also having some issues with my windows as well but I will leave to the experts. Thank you for your help.

By the way, will be getting some proper anti-sway bars buy your recommendation in the spring as well
 
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Gary Knox

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Scott,

You may already be doing this, but I've found (with several low cars I have now or have had in the past) that it is best to never approach a curb straight on. Approaching it at an angle (about 30 degrees or so) usually allows the front spoiler to be raised up enough when the leading wheel goes up onto the higher level pavement or macadam to not scrape. Pictures look great, glad you are enjoying driving the car so much.

Gary
 

scottevest

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Scott,

You may already be doing this, but I've found (with several low cars I have now or have had in the past) that it is best to never approach a curb straight on. Approaching it at an angle (about 30 degrees or so) usually allows the front spoiler to be raised up enough when the leading wheel goes up onto the higher level pavement or macadam to not scrape. Pictures look great, glad you are enjoying driving the car so much.

Gary
yep. I learned that the hard way with this car. I had other cars, see below, that were low and had to accommodate, but this seems even lower but does not appear that way.
Once I figured it out, i haven't had any issues.

28647884251_a2824f5b44_z.jpg
 
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