My BMW journey has begun

[Dlc]

That is unfortunate. I will pull the rear 1/4 trim. What is the black box I found under the rear seat (drivers side)View attachment 227148View attachment 227149

Seat Belt Interlock Control Unit (German: Gurt-Anlass-Steuergerät),

What it does​

This module is the control unit for the Seat Belt Interlock System.

• Background: In the mid-1970s, Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS 208) in the US (and briefly in certain European export specifications) mandated a safety feature to prevent the engine from starting unless the front seat occupants were buckled up.
• Operation: The control box evaluates signals from weight/occupancy sensors in the seats and microswitches inside the seat belt buckles. It only allows voltage to pass to the starter solenoid (Terminal 50) if the sequence is correct (sit down first, then buckle up).

(helped by Gemini)

 

[Dlc]

There are a handful of tiny screws in the console that hold a bracket connected to the console to a wood block glued to the inside of the side panel. You have to access these screws through the center of the console around the shifter. Its been ten years since I had an automatic, but I think on my car (a 72 with a ZF transmission), you unscrewed the shift knob and removed the cover along side the shaft (by pulling straight up). Then remove the window switches, and you should be able to locate the screws. There is a "Z" shaped metal bracket (or perhaps it was "C" shaped) that is screwed into the underside of the console. The bottom of that bracket has a slot with one or two very small screws that screw into a block of wood on the inside of the side panel. You are looking to remove the bottom screws from the slot in the Z. Then the console should lift up, but the wiper switch and cigarette lighter wiring need to be disconnected before you can remove it completely.

pull out the window switches, below there is a screw as described by Ohmess

 

[bavbob]

I bought Eastwoods' frame sealer years ago. The best part is the extension flex wand that came with it. I have used it a dozen times with various aerosols. When done, I just spray it clear with brake cleaner, the little red straw fits into the cap then blows the line clean.

I use Fluid Film. Easy to use and inexpensive. I used to get Eastwood stuff all the time but their prices are high and they have no threshold for free shipping. Fluid Film is 8 bucks for 11.75 oz. Use it in the bottom of doors, bottom of rear quarter panel, folds in the trunk lid and hood

 

[Ohmess]

pull out the window switches, below there is a screw as described by Ohmess

View attachment 227151
View attachment 227152

Yes, I went in through the shift area to get the switches up because I didn't want to pry up on the switches. Nonetheless, if you are very careful, you can pry the switches out. Be advised, however, that the plate under the switches is very soft and is easily damaged.

 

[Dlc]

Yes, I went in through the shift area to get the switches up because I didn't want to pry up on the switches. Nonetheless, if you are very careful, you can pry the switches out. Be advised, however, that the plate under the switches is very soft and is easily damaged.

with the auto I actually would be concerned how to get to the screws as space is very limited. I have gently (with help of a plastic spatula) pried out the switches many times and had no issues so far.

 

[ScottAndrews]

There are a handful of tiny screws in the console that hold a bracket connected to the console to a wood block glued to the inside of the side panel. You have to access these screws through the center of the console around the shifter. Its been ten years since I had an automatic, but I think on my car (a 72 with a ZF transmission), you unscrewed the shift knob and removed the cover along side the shaft (by pulling straight up). Then remove the window switches, and you should be able to locate the screws. There is a "Z" shaped metal bracket (or perhaps it was "C" shaped) that is screwed into the underside of the console. The bottom of that bracket has a slot with one or two very small screws that screw into a block of wood on the inside of the side panel. You are looking to remove the bottom screws from the slot in the Z. Then the console should lift up, but the wiper switch and cigarette lighter wiring need to be disconnected before you can remove it completely.

On my car the console is attaches with the Z-brackets. These come up through the rear window switch holes and are nailed to the wood console core (the core has a small relief onthe top for this bracket. You can see that below in the 3D model I made of the core. . At the bottom they z-brackets screw into the trans tunnel. Once the shifter console is off, then you will find the console sides held on with small wooden blocks that screw to the trans tunnel. Pretty hokey approach, IMO...

 

[StephenZ]

I removed my rocker panels yesterday and they look great. Has anyone tried this Eastwood product?

https://www.eastwood.com/kbs-coatings-cavity-coater-aerosol-and-48-cavity-wand-w-360-degree-tip-75101.html

I used this on my bavaria and it seems to have gone on very well. Went through the many access holes while the trim is off and went through the front and rear frame rails, too. I had gone in with a camera to assess the inside first, luckily pretty much perfect. I don’t plan on doing any rain driving, but better to be protected..

 

[e9Leveque]

I used this on my bavaria and it seems to have gone on very well. Went through the many access holes while the trim is off and went through the front and rear frame rails, too. I had gone in with a camera to assess the inside first, luckily pretty much perfect. I don’t plan on doing any rain driving, but better to be protected..

David - if you look at the top of the frame rails where they are visible in the engine bay you can see some slots. I fed the wand in through there and sprayed a can or two on each side. There are hole on the bottom of the frame rails under about where the doors are, same deal. Basically any hole that you can find, feed that wand in an inject a bunch. If you have your door cards off also not a bad idea to squirt a bit to layer along the bottom of the inside of the door. All of these things just create a hydrophobic layer so that the water doesn't want to penetrate./

 

[bluecoupe30!]

I bought Eastwoods' frame sealer years ago. The best part is the extension flex wand that came with it. I have used it a dozen times with various aerosols. When done, I just spray it clear with brake cleaner, the little red straw fits into the cap then blows the line clean.

I use Fluid Film. Easy to use and inexpensive. I used to get Eastwood stuff all the time but their prices are high and they have no threshold for free shipping. Fluid Film is 8 bucks for 11.75 oz. Use it in the bottom of doors, bottom of rear quarter panel, folds in the trunk lid and hood

I spray Fluid Film anywhere I can get it into the frame. Purchased cheap hose and nozzle off of Amazon and it works great.