That would make me all the more suspicious!The best conclusion is when they heal themselves.
Need a mechanic near Ketchum, Idaho that can tune my e9
- Thread starter scottevest
- Start date
Jeff Hecox
New Member
Hi Scott,
I'm new to this group, But I have worked on several E9 and E3 over the years with both Zenith or Weber carburetors. The first thing that comes to mind is the altitude difference between my close friend Bill Arnolds shop at sea level in San Rafael and Ketchum Idaho is 6,000 feet. On a perfectly running engine that altitude change is going to result in a 18-20% horsepower loss. If your engine is running a richer fuel mixture that loss could be more due to the thin air at elevation. Also the cooler weather is going to change how well the carburetors perform depending on the jetting and adjustments. Many things effect the running performance of these engines, the ignition Distributer advance and retard, Points, plug wires. It only takes one of these items to start failing to result in a loss of power and performance and at 6000 feet the loss of power is even greater.
Jeff Hecox
I'm new to this group, But I have worked on several E9 and E3 over the years with both Zenith or Weber carburetors. The first thing that comes to mind is the altitude difference between my close friend Bill Arnolds shop at sea level in San Rafael and Ketchum Idaho is 6,000 feet. On a perfectly running engine that altitude change is going to result in a 18-20% horsepower loss. If your engine is running a richer fuel mixture that loss could be more due to the thin air at elevation. Also the cooler weather is going to change how well the carburetors perform depending on the jetting and adjustments. Many things effect the running performance of these engines, the ignition Distributer advance and retard, Points, plug wires. It only takes one of these items to start failing to result in a loss of power and performance and at 6000 feet the loss of power is even greater.
Jeff Hecox
All good ideas, but....According to Scott, the car was running great prior to taking it to the shop, and not running great after it left the shop. (see posts #1 and 39). So most likely something that happened at the shop was the culprit and not a degradation of performance over time or some part failure prior to taking it to the shop.
Maybe a moot point now since Scott is reporting in post 39 that it seems to be back to normal now.
Maybe a moot point now since Scott is reporting in post 39 that it seems to be back to normal now.
Jeff Hecox
New Member
It's possible that the shop had the engine idling for a extended time and a spark plug started fouling and then cleaned up after some extended driving, The original post mentions checking spark plugs? that would require removing the Plug Wires from the engine, If the wire set is old and on the edge of failing it could induce a intermittent secondary ignition misfire.
The key will be finding a local mechanic that is comfortable and competent working on a classic car with multi carburetors and distributor ignitions, I would check if anyone is working on classic Mercedes Benz in the area too and willing to take on a Bavarian brother.
I believe the car self healed. What do you think? It clearly was not sounding this good when I picked it up.
I think my microphone was not working properly. I think it was using my headset as a source. I will try to do this again but trust me it sounded amazing
What is important....you are happy. Pixie dust works everytime. 
Don’t bother watching either of these yet. Going to try again tomorrow.
Went for another ride to try to repeat it now I think I’m just driving myself crazy. If you weeks ago the car sounded great to me. Here’s a video from a few weeks ago. My apologies for the poor camera work.
Sorry for the long video. Trying to go for a ride to determine whether the sound of the car is right or not. Unfortunately, it was sounding great this afternoon but I think because I started and stop the vehicle so many times before I hit record something went wrong. I am going to try again tomorrow. I thought I’d still record because it was a beautiful drive. Thanks for all of your help.
Went for another ride to try to repeat it now I think I’m just driving myself crazy. If you weeks ago the car sounded great to me. Here’s a video from a few weeks ago. My apologies for the poor camera work.
Sorry for the long video. Trying to go for a ride to determine whether the sound of the car is right or not. Unfortunately, it was sounding great this afternoon but I think because I started and stop the vehicle so many times before I hit record something went wrong. I am going to try again tomorrow. I thought I’d still record because it was a beautiful drive. Thanks for all of your help.
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OK...maybe it's just my advanced years. I'm not trying to be mean spirited here, but driving with one hand while filming with the other, then driving with no hands at speed while shifting on curvy mountain roads? There has got to be a better way to diagnose the problem.
I appreciate your concern. Sincerely. There wasn’t a single curve of any significance but I get your meaning. I’m pretty comfortable filming while driving. But I hear you loud and clear.OK...maybe it's just my advanced years. I'm not trying to be mean spirited here, but driving with one hand while filming with the other, then driving with no hands at speed while shifting on curvy mountain roads? There has got to be a better way to diagnose the problem.
I think the test failed because I didn’t properly start it by feathering the accelerator as I usually do. I will try again tomorrow.
OK I think I am truly driving myself crazy with the sound of the car and will just rely on the mechanic to take a look and listen when I bring it back. I do think there is something electronically involved as there is that little pause before it starts the engine almost every time now.
But, I drove the car last night and the heat was not working properly. I have no idea if it is related. It was lukewarm at best even though the engine was properly warmed up. I don’t use the heat that much but when I had it had work. Any chance there is some electronic component related to the heat that could be causing this and therefore related to my other issues? The air simply blows warm not hot.
But, I drove the car last night and the heat was not working properly. I have no idea if it is related. It was lukewarm at best even though the engine was properly warmed up. I don’t use the heat that much but when I had it had work. Any chance there is some electronic component related to the heat that could be causing this and therefore related to my other issues? The air simply blows warm not hot.
What's in the distributor? Points & Condenser, Pertronix or 123 Distributor?
90% of carb problems are in the ignition system. When were the carbs last cleaned? Could it be sticking jet?
Do you have a heater bypass valve? Check your coolant level regarding the lack of heat. Only the fan is electric in that system.
90% of carb problems are in the ignition system. When were the carbs last cleaned? Could it be sticking jet?
Do you have a heater bypass valve? Check your coolant level regarding the lack of heat. Only the fan is electric in that system.
Thanks. Not sure of any of these answers, but I believe he changed all coolant fluid. I am gathering notes snd will share with mechanic. Thanks. He did say that he didn't touch the carbs, and don't think they have been cleaned. I am nervous to have anyone touch them, otherwise I will need too drive to SF to have Bill Arnold tune again...
They think the heat is fine now, blowing hot air to floor and windshield but NOT through center vents, just luke warm. Is there something that needs to be done to get HOT air through center vents?
It is working as designed. The center grille is for fresh air only (and A/C obviously). Heated air can be directed to the defrost vents, foot wells or both.